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Discussion Starter #1
Any of you have issues with your locking cap? For the last couple years if keeps corroding so that you can’t unlock it.... you have to spend twenty minutes working it with wd40 and the key. A white mess of corrosion usually comes out in the key, then I use graphite key lube.. but it still keeps happening. It shouldn’t be rain because I cover the bike religiously. Any ideas on how to keep this from happening or is the venting bad on the cap causing this to happen for some reason?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Looks like the metal the key slides into is all pitted and what not, I wonder why this is happening and is the gas fumes or stupid ethanol gas causing this....
 

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I just changed mine (2013) out to a non-locking Vortex cap because of this. Fortunately, mine sleeps inside my house's garage at night so I don't worry about someone messing with it.

My uneducated guess is it is white rust and the lock body has a lot of zinc in it. I live on the Texas Gulf coast and our humidity levels are high year round.
 

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If you've lubed it with wd40 or whatnot, you need to remove it and give it a good cleaning with alcohol or something to remove all the oil residue. Then you can use the graphite. If you don't remove all the oilyness it's just going to gum up again for certain.

I've heard folks say this works well: https://www.triflowlubricants.com/product/tri-flow-superior-dry-lubricant/ but I have no personal experience with it. I'm not sure if a waxy material is a good idea. I might stick with the graphite.

I did find this which is supposed to be for marine use. https://www.nocorrosion.com/products/corrosion-block-1oz-sample Again, I haven't tried it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you OBO and cratecookie for the opinions! I think it to late to try new lubes or non corrosive products because the lock cylinder looks pretty pitted.... changing the cap out sounds like a good idea... I’ll have to check to see if Rizoma makes a cap as well....
 

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It seems this is a common problem when doing a quick search, and you are not alone. It's worth noting the same issues could happen to your ignition switch, so a graphite lube for it is also a good idea. Again, steer away from oil based lubricants as they can attract dust and make things worse.
 

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First, WD40 is not a lubricant. That's the biggest misunderstanding about the product. Use actual penetrating lube on the cylinder. Stick the nozzle into the key slot and spray gently until it foams out the top. Wait 5 minutes, do it again. Wait another 5 minutes, do it again. Spray your key on both sides. Insert into the lock and it should work, albeit it may take some work initially. Once the cap is open, fill the key slot with the lube again. From there you have 2 choices - pull the lock, disassemble it, and clean and grease the internal components, then reassemble. Or just leave it as is, but set a reminder to spritz a little bit of real liquid lube in there every month or so.
 
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