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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I'm Tealdo and I'm a modaholic.
I've done a few mods to my 650 but, I've never posted them up because it looked so freakin' hideous. The guy I bought it from crashed it and decided to repaint it a different color using a sheet of 36 grit paper and a single spray can of paint.
I focused on the mechanical mods first but, the horrific paint job just got to be too much. So, I finally repainted it and now it's time to let you see it.

The mods to date are:
636 front-end with Race Tech springs, compression and rebound valves.
636 brakes and master cylinder.
636 rear wheel
Versys swingarm
Ohlins shock
Braided brake lines
Power Commander pc3
Muzzymura muffler. (Muzzy can with a Yoshimura powercore baffle)
I have a few more mod ideas up my sleeve but, you'll just have to wait to see what comes out of my shop. >:)
There's a bunch of other little stuff, too but I can't just tell ALL my secrets!

Now for the rest of the story... I am a little less than $4500 into this bike as it is including the purchase price. I do all the work myself including the machining and painting. I scour eBay and buy parts only when they are cheap enough. I also get deals on a lot of parts because I'm an instructor and that helps a little too.
I have several very nice bikes (and ALL of them seem to get modified) but, this cheap little bike is my favorite.
 

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Hi I'm Tealdo and I'm a modaholic.
I've done a few mods to my 650 but, I've never posted them up because it looked so freakin' hideous. The guy I bought it from crashed it and decided to repaint it a different color using a sheet of 36 grit paper and a single spray can of paint.
I focused on the mechanical mods first but, the horrific paint job just got to be too much. So, I finally repainted it and now it's time to let you see it.

The mods to date are:
636 front-end with Race Tech springs, compression and rebound valves.
636 brakes and master cylinder.
636 rear wheel
Versys swingarm
Ohlins shock
Braided brake lines
Power Commander pc3
Muzzymura muffler. (Muzzy can with a Yoshimura powercore baffle)
I have a few more mod ideas up my sleeve but, you'll just have to wait to see what comes out of my shop. >:)
There's a bunch of other little stuff, too but I can't just tell ALL my secrets!

Now for the rest of the story... I am a little less than $4500 into this bike as it is including the purchase price. I do all the work myself including the machining and painting. I scour eBay and buy parts only when they are cheap enough. I also get deals on a lot of parts because I'm an instructor and that helps a little too.
I have several very nice bikes (and ALL of them seem to get modified) but, this cheap little bike is my favorite.
Sweet. Great job.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice bike! How's that 180 on the back change the flickability of the motorcycle? I've wanted to swap out to a larger rubber in back.
The wider tire does make the bike feel less "flickable". (that's the perfect word.) The bike still turns extremely quickly. It just takes a little more effort on the bars.
 

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Hey, great looking bike!!

I bought mine as a repo bike and there was allot of little dings and hidden cracks in the plastics, I too scoured eBay, and get all the pieces I needed for real cheap..

Great Work
 

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Nice, very nice. Pics of other "very nice bikes"?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice, very nice. Pics of other "very nice bikes"?
Your wish is my command!

The blue bike is my 2003 ZRX1200
Overbored to 1224cc
Ported and polished head
Japan-only Yoshimura cams
Double valve springs
ZX11D ECU
39mm FCR flat-slide carbs
TealdoMoto radiator
Race Tech front-end
Ohlins shocks
ZX11D 6 speed transmission
Ohlins steering damper with TealdoMoto mounts
...and TONS more...

The white bike is my wife's 650R
Scorpion muffler
Power Commander PC3
636 front-end (full Race Tech)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here's a couple more of my projects...

The old red bike is my 1966 Suzuki X-6 Hustler
It's the first bike I ever rode (a looong time ago).
In 1966 it as the fastest production 250 in the world!
It would do an honest 100MPH and that was pretty [email protected] fast for 1966.

The car is my 1948 MG TC
This was the 2nd car my dad ever owned. The first was a 1952 MG TD and my brother has that car.
When I'm done with the car it will be done as if an enthusiast owned it in the late 40's or early 50's.
I have an entire room full of really trick vintage parts for it!
Some of what I have planned for it includes:
vintage supercharger
.060 overbore
steel crankshaft
aluminum brake drums
3/4 race cam
oversize valves
my goal is to make 70 HP! (yes, I said 70 as in seven zero! Hey, it's a 62 year old British car!)
 

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very nice! Did you machine your top triple clamp or buy it? I bought mine from LSL; had to keep bars instead of clip on's when we did the 636 front end.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
very nice! Did you machine your top triple clamp or buy it? I bought mine from LSL; had to keep bars instead of clip on's when we did the 636 front end.
On both 650's I used '05 triples.
I pressed the stems out of the 636 lowers and the 650 lowers. I then turned an extension and welded it into the 650 stem. (The 636 triples require a longer stem.)
I then welded additional material onto the bottom of the stem and turned it down to the correct size. (The bottom of the 636 stem is 3/10ths of a mm bigger than the 650 stem. This may not seem like much but, it WILL cause handling issues.)
I then pressed the modified 650 stem into the 636 lower.
The top of the 650 stem is bigger than the top of the 636 stem so I bored the hole out on the 636 upper.
All I had to do then was make bar risers that would work with the 636 uppers.

I know I could have done it easier but, I bought 2 complete front-ends and I wanted to use what I had.
Also, the 636 triples have 1.5mm less offset than the 650 triples which increases the trail by 1.5mm and makes the bike a smidge more stable without significantly slowing the steering down.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Why couldn't you use clip ons with the 636 front end swap? I was considering this as I have a wrecked 636 at my disposal.
You can use clip-ons but you have to put them on top of the triples which means that you have to raise the fork tubes about 1.25 inches in the triples. (If you put them under the top triple, the bars will hit the fairing.) 1.25 inches is a LOT. Raising the fork tubes that much will make the bike unstable and will squander ground clearance.
I know some people have done this and will probably say that it doesn't affect handling but, it's just not true.
One way to use clip-ons without messing up the chassis geometry is to use clip-on risers. This is a perfectly acceptable (but expensive) option.
 

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We used an 04 636, which has the appropriate stem already. I wish I had a lathe though :p I think your bike is the closest in mods to mine that I've heard of yet. I went with a Penske rear and an Arrow slip on for it's higher profile around 5-6K. We could have dropped the ride height on the rear shock to match the front and gone with clip ons, but for daily commuting I greatly prefer bars and their adjustability. It also feels more "flickable" with all that leverage to play with, and I didn't want to loose that especially since going with thw 180 rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
We used an 04 636, which has the appropriate stem already. I wish I had a lathe though :p I think your bike is the closest in mods to mine that I've heard of yet. I went with a Penske rear and an Arrow slip on for it's higher profile around 5-6K. We could have dropped the ride height on the rear shock to match the front and gone with clip ons, but for daily commuting I greatly prefer bars and their adjustability. It also feels more "flickable" with all that leverage to play with, and I didn't want to loose that especially since going with thw 180 rear.
I don't really have the luxury of lowering my bike. I have the physical means but, I'm a big guy and at max lean, I will grind hard parts on a stock bike much less a lowered bike.
I also added a little extra leverage on my bars. I used bars from a ZRX which are a little wider and have a better bend for my taste (less rise and more pull-back). On my wife's bike, she preferred the feel of some Renthal bars so, thats what she got.
As far as the shock... the Penske is a very nice unit. I went with the Ohlins for 2 reasons. 1). They cut me a KILLER deal because I'm an instructor. 2). They make a VERY high quality product. A lot of people poo poo the Ohlins because it does not have an external compression adjustment. However, most of these people actually have no clue how to properly set-up a suspension. I teach suspension seminars and I can tell you that low-speed compression adjustment is the least critical of all the supension adjustments. You will lose far more traction from incorrect sag/preload and incorrect rebound damping than from any other adjustments. Also, most people with compression adjustment will set the compression too hard thinking it makes them faster. That truth is that (when speaking about COMPRESSION DAMPING) if you have to error on compression damping, you will lose less traction with too little compression damping than from to much.
 

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I didn't lower mine for mostly practical purposes. I don't want speed bumps or riding through my yard to become problems. Also, at 6' 4", footing is not a concern. I am still tweaking around with my suspension after a year, and feel moderately baffled by rebound dampening. I find it easy to set compression, and as I use the bike as a daily driver, softer for a nice ride is where I have that. I just added a trunk, and need to reset preload. I suppose if I'm not noticing the suspensio loading and running out of travel, my rebound must be at least okay? It dosent get real squirrely in bumpy corners either.
 

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Nice, thanks for the extra pics. The 650 looks good in white. I would rock it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I didn't lower mine for mostly practical purposes. I don't want speed bumps or riding through my yard to become problems. Also, at 6' 4", footing is not a concern. I am still tweaking around with my suspension after a year, and feel moderately baffled by rebound dampening. I find it easy to set compression, and as I use the bike as a daily driver, softer for a nice ride is where I have that. I just added a trunk, and need to reset preload. I suppose if I'm not noticing the suspensio loading and running out of travel, my rebound must be at least okay? It dosent get real squirrely in bumpy corners either.
A couple resourses you can use to get a basic understanding of motorcycle suspension set-up are Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible. (DISCLAIMER - This was co-written by Lee Parks who authored Total Control which is one of the curriculums that I teach and is also a friend of mine.) Yes, I'm biased but, bias aside, this book is FANTASTIC. You can also go to the Catalyst Reaction website and see a few videos by Dave Moss.
Setting rebound is very simple but, it requires a lot of practice to get the feel of how to compress and release the suspension.
If you were local, I'd show you.
 
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