Fuel injector light, trouble starting & self diagnosis

Here's the explaination from my website. I would suggest you download the self diagnosois "how to" as well as it explains the sequence to enter diagnosis mode.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
The loose single wire coloured orange/black is referred to in the Wiring Diagram as the Self Diagnosis Terminal and as the name implies forms part of the trouble shooting procedure for the Fuel Injection (FI) system. Briefly when this connector is grounded in a particular sequence the FI light flashes a fault code indicating the item at fault or in another mode a previous fault that is stored in the ECU memory.

The other mounted connector has four wires coloured Light Blue/Black, Black/Yellow, Brown/White and Light Green/White (six wires on ABS models). Kawasaki refers to this plug as the Self Diagnosis System Connector and although no indication of its purpose appears anywhere in either the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or the ER-6N Service Manual it would appear that this connector is used in conjunction with a dealer tool called the Kawasaki Diagnostic System (KDS).

The KDS 3.0 (until 2007 KDS 2.0) is a software program run from a computer in conjunction with cables and a adapter which are connected to the bike via the Self Diagnosis System Connector. The program can be used by the dealer to do the following:

1. Display ECU and model information.

2. Perform system diagnostics.

3. Display, save, and print service data.

4. Actuate individual injectors and other actuators.

5. Display, save, and print real-time sensor values.

6. Display and print graphs (real-time sensor values).

7. Erase stored service data.

On ABS models KDS 3.0 can be used to diagnose ABS faults and clear stored data in the ABS ECU. The KDS 3.0 unit can be purchased through your dealer or online and the kit comprises:

KDS 3.0 Adapter – (P/N 57001-1648) – Cost approx US$1,040.00

KDS 3.0 Software CD-ROM – (P/N 57001-1650) – Cost approx US$65.00

Comm. Cable 8-pin – (P/N 57001-1649) – Cost approx US$55.00

Comm. Cable 4-pin – (P/N 57001-1688) – Cost approx US$55.00

USB Cable – (P/N C57001-0017) – Cost approx US$20.00

KDS 3.0 User Manual – (P/N 99929-0154-02) - Cost approx US$9.00

Can't remember off hand, but I'm pretty sure that "dealer mode 2" is the easier of the two to do yourself (don't have my manual with me to check). Just to warn you, the grounding for two seconds then breaking/connecting and grounding continuously procedure takes a fews tries to get right (at least it did for me). Reading the codes displayed is also tricky, but they will repeat over and over. A good thing to do is have a friend with you can write down the codes as you're reading them, so you aren't trying to hold the ground, read the blinking light, and write numbers so you know you have all the codes.
Also, these codes will only show problems that are involved with the FI system. So, if for example, your stator was going/gone bad it would not make the FI light come on.
Hopefully you're able to figure out what's wrong and it is something easy to fix like a loose connector.

NozzleNut said:

Fan comes on when FI light does too. Sound familiar?

I need to get a better code so I can find out what the problem is.

Click to expand...

Completely agreed about getting a solid code(s); you're taking a stab in the dark without one and wasting your time trying to blindly troubleshoot. Perfect example: "Gave me 2 long blips and 3 short." This would indicate code 23, which isn't a code at all.

With the fan issue, are you talking about when the bike is running? Or does this happen while you're checking the codes? If the radiator fan is coming on and off consistently with the FI light while you're checking codes, this would indicate a blatant short. If you meant that this happens while the bike is running, can you elaborate a little bit more on environmental conditions? As in, does the FI light come on immediately when the bike is started? If so, does the fan also immediately start up and stay running? This would also indicate a short somewhere in the circuit, especially if when the FI light goes out, the fan also simultaneously cuts out. Electrical gremlins like this can be extremely frustrating, but are solvable since you have the schematics. I would try to isolate the problem as much as possible off the bike, and then get REALLY intimate with the schematics once you've nailed it down as best as you can

On an off-shoot, do you know the condition of the spark plugs? Difficulty starting, especially when the engine is cold, could be symptomatic of dirty or fouled plugs, although it wouldn't necessarily throw the FI light. Also, is the bike stock? What modifications have been made (that you are aware of) if it isn't? Even something seemingly as simple as LED accent lights could potentially cause a problem if the person who installed them did so incorrectly. Good luck, and let me know what you come up with once you get some time to really sit down with the bike and get solid evidence. I'm happy to assist, just need a good starting point!

Thanks for the detailed reply.

It started about two months ago, the FI light would come on and then go off. I also had idle issues which I pinpointed to me changing the idle timer by mistake.

About a month ago I started seeing the FI light on more, then had troubles starting. It goes "chug chug chug chug" and sometimes when it starts it idles a bit then dies, or won't go into "cold start mode" and high-idle. I also notice the headlights dim a bit when starting and warming up, or when riding on a few occasions and increasing on throttle. This is not the case all the time, except when starting on occasion. When the FI light comes on when starting the bike, or when at a low idle where I can hear it I hear a buzz, that almost sounds like a pump or fan. Unfortunately when this happens I have to leave right away and don't have time to diagnose.

As far as the spark plugs, no. The previous owner put 2300 miles on it since 2006 and was very meticulous with maintenance and paid $400 every year to get a full check of everything. (Have the records). The mods that were done when I purchased it were a fender eliminator, extended mirrors and lowered handle bars. Everything was done by the stealership. I put on a new pipe, but that was before the problems started.

Sadly, whenever the issue occurs I either don't have time or I am on the road and when I pull over, it's gone. Sometimes it's on for long stretches of highway, or just goes in and out or doesn't appear at all. When I do have time to check it, it won't appear at all.

Definitely strange. Just because a dealership did the work, unfortunately that doesn't always mean everything was done right. The one and only time I took my bike in for maintenance (was leaving the country for work and wanted to ride when I got back), the asshats took forever to diagnose the problem I was having. When I got the bike back home, I had a funny feeling about something, so decided to check their work. As soon as I started to disassemble the bike, I saw their first error - they apparently couldn't figure out how to install my air filter properly, because it was jammed into the opening, with one corner FOLDED OVER, allowing a ton of unfiltered air into the intake. Now this alone was enough to p1ss me off, but it wasn't just any old air filter, it was my nice DNA performance filter. :FIREdevil That was just the start of a list of things I found that weren't quite right. From then on the only person I've ever trusted to touch any of my vehicles is me, plus I'm free of charge and will even buy myself a six pack or two to go through the trouble!

Anyway, back to you. It's definitely shaping up like a complex issue, but sounds entirely electrical. When you have the time, pull the codes from the ECU and we'll start from there. Oh - and check that air filter. Seriously. Might be blocked, you never know! :wtf:

Gas tank's easy, but everything's relative depending on your mechanical apptitude. I'm a helicopter technician by trade, so working on the bike is like a toy lol. All it takes is about 2-5 minutes, a #2 Philips and flathead screwdriver, 10mm socket & ratchet and it's off. If you want to do your own work, the maintenance manual will be your best friend. Kiwi's got it on his site to download, if you haven't already.

Thanks for the compliment! Other than the paint (on the bodywork, the frame/ suspension I did in my back yard), I did everything else myself. Painting is something I can do, but avoid like the plague if at all possible. I just don't have a good setup to do it properly. I got my bodywork from Gary, and he painted it for me before he shipped it off. Turned out great

About the code - unless you manually clear them, the ecu will store all codes indefinitely, even if the battery is disconnected. The FI light being on isn't the only time you can read a thrown code, so don't worry if it's on or not.