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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My Kawi ZRX1200 clunks heavily going from neutral to first. So what I do is pull the clutch and hold it for ten seconds while I pedal the bike forward to get all the gears moving, then I shift to first gear and there’s no clunk at all. Try that with the Ninja.
I don’t remember my Versys doing it. My 2017 z900 doesn’t really do it but I’m in the habit of pedaling forward on all my bikes including my zr7S, just a slight push forward with your feet, It’s easy and becomes second nature. That big clunk isn’t good for the gearbox. Excessive chain slack can cause it as well.
I'll be sure to try that out!
 

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Dis you see the PSR socket? It's expensive, but I don't think I need to say anything else as you will understand the why. Even our very best swear words don't do this but justice.

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Dis you see the PSR socket? It's expensive, but I don't think I need to say anything else as you will understand the why. Even our very best swear words don't do this but justice.

Ugh, dude, yeah, I probably need that next time. Go figure one needs a specialty socket to get a nut off (insert eye roll here).
 

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Here's what's crazy...., That socket has only been available for a short time, and it's not from Kawasaki. For years we went through just what you did. Never knowing which socket we were supposed to use as no one size socket fits very well.

I've had mine off 3 or 4 times and it's still a pita. It's always tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Here's what's crazy...., That socket has only been available for a short time, and it's not from Kawasaki. For years we went through just what you did. Never knowing which socket we were supposed to use as no one size socket fits very well.

I've had mine off 3 or 4 times and it's still a pita. It's always tight.
Wow haha. Go figure. I was told 27mm, or the US equivalent (1 and 1/4 I think?). Neither fit the bolt just right. I thought it was weird but forged ahead. Oh well. Now I know!
 

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I was told 27mm, or the US equivalent (1 and 1/4 I think?). Neither fit the bolt just right.
What I often do in situations where there is some play between the socket and nut is to cut up a feeler blade, fit it inside the socket, and then tap it onto the nut. You can try different size blades until you get a nice tight fit.

A bit of a backyard fix it - but it has come in handy many times, especially with nuts that have a few rounded edges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
What I often do in situations where there is some play between the socket and nut is to cut up a feeler blade, fit it inside the sprocket, and then tap it onto the nut. You can try different size blades until you get a nice tight fit.

A bit of a backyard fix it - but it has come in handy many times, especially with nuts that have a few rounded edges.
That is a fantastic idea! I'm keeping that one in my back pocket for future use!
 

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I used the proper mm SIX POINT socket and pulled up from the rear to keep the socket square to the nut. There was no slipping on the nut. The problem was excessive torque, which my four foot cheater bar overcame.
A twelve point socket would have slipped. Ever wonder why all impact sockets are six point sockets? (Hint: twelve point sockets slip).
 
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