Another thing to consider when checking these items (especially the exhaust flange nuts) is that you don't twist the stud off. If you're using a long wrench to tighten them with, it becomes increasingly easier to twist them off because you have more leverage. About every other time I tighten mine, I use the torque wrench just to make sure I'm not going over board.
Friendly Reminder
I've seen posts in the past about various loose nuts and bolts that are common on the ZR-7(S) that account for various rattles and buzzes on our bikes.
Last night, I did a quick check of my bike looking for them. I found:
-4 of 8 exhaust nuts were loose with 1 barely more than hand tight.
-2 of 4 of the 6mm axel bolts were a little loose
-3 of 4 of the 4mm fairing bolts were loose in varying degrees
The bike wasn't what I would consider to be noisy before checking, but was noticably quieter riding into work this morning. When you have a few minutes, you might want to go over your bike. I admit that what I found suprised me and I'm going to make a note to add this to my periodic maintenance check list.
Craig
Last night, I did a quick check of my bike looking for them. I found:
-4 of 8 exhaust nuts were loose with 1 barely more than hand tight.
-2 of 4 of the 6mm axel bolts were a little loose
-3 of 4 of the 4mm fairing bolts were loose in varying degrees
The bike wasn't what I would consider to be noisy before checking, but was noticably quieter riding into work this morning. When you have a few minutes, you might want to go over your bike. I admit that what I found suprised me and I'm going to make a note to add this to my periodic maintenance check list.
Craig
1 - 6 of 14 Posts
Another thing that may be happen is the cap nut may "top-out" on the stud. One of us may end up with tight flange nuts and still get an exhaust leak if the exhaust gaskets flatten out. That may deserve some investigation. :?
It's a fairly easy thing to check. Just get a nut to fit the studs and a bolt that will fit the cap nuts. If one or the other doesn't fit then it could be that the threads are streatching. But I think you're probably right. But I'm gonna put that on my, "I'm Bored as Hell and I want Something To Do" list.
It's the 1/4" drive, in/lb, "break-away" style. It's somewhere around $30-$35.
I use the "Basic Torque for General Fasteners" guide on page 1-10 of the manual.
Thread Diameter Ft/lbs
5mm 30-43 in/lb
6mm 52-69 in/lb
8mm 10-14 ft/lb
10mm 19-25 ft/lb
12mm 33-45 ft/lb
14mm 54-72 ft/lb
16mm 83-115 ft/lb
18mm 125-165 ft/lb
20mm 165-240 ft/lb
The book doesn't have a specific torque for those and I haven't been in the garage all week-end to look at my notes. Just size it up and use good judgement. Make sure they are cold when you do it.
Thread Diameter Ft/lbs
5mm 30-43 in/lb
6mm 52-69 in/lb
8mm 10-14 ft/lb
10mm 19-25 ft/lb
12mm 33-45 ft/lb
14mm 54-72 ft/lb
16mm 83-115 ft/lb
18mm 125-165 ft/lb
20mm 165-240 ft/lb
The book doesn't have a specific torque for those and I haven't been in the garage all week-end to look at my notes. Just size it up and use good judgement. Make sure they are cold when you do it.
Correct.
You can use a wrench to measure the diameter. Just put the open end portion of the wrench up to the threads. When you find one that's close, that's usually it. Just don't try to jam one on the threads, could screw up the threads.
You can use a wrench to measure the diameter. Just put the open end portion of the wrench up to the threads. When you find one that's close, that's usually it. Just don't try to jam one on the threads, could screw up the threads.
1 - 6 of 14 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
RiderForums.com - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forum
Rider forum is a community for motorcyclists including both street and track riders. Come in and talk about your favorite model.
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
