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Edit: Think I was being clueless, hadn't realized that pic was of the gaskets as I hadn't seen 'em when I first saw it & think I just got what 'cut from' was referring to.
 

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I used this when doing mine today. There seemed to be a little more space around the edges than yours shows but other than that it seems to be all good. Thanks! :righton:
 

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Hi, I need to fix my exhaust leak and I have read the above thread but I'm a newb and don't understand about the part to be cut. Would you mind giving me more detail if you could? If I can't get the Harley gaskets will double sets of the Kawi OE gaskets work in the same way? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Answered your PM but since I get this question a lot here's a pic of what I did. Cut 2 of them like in the below pick. Use wire cutters or tin snips; only about an 1/8" is removed.


Then pinch it and it fits inside one of the 2 uncut gaskets. It'll then look like the pic in the first post; twice as wide as original and it'll fit the exhaust port perfectly.
 

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Thanks streak07, I got the harley gaskets (or I think I did, the local harley shop here doesn't use part numbers ?!?). I had to cut much more than 1/8" or even 3/8". I'd estimate that I cut 1/2" but they ended up like the ones in the first post and fit into the exhaust holes fine. One of my exhaust studs was damaged by the previous owner by cross-threading. Does anyone know if the exhaust studs are replaceable? I did manage to get the nut back on but with great difficulty and I'm not sure how well it's going to grab or stay. Anyway, my first drive into work this morning was backfire free so I'm a very happy rider. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks streak07, I got the harley gaskets (or I think I did, the local harley shop here doesn't use part numbers ?!?). I had to cut much more than 1/8" or even 3/8". I'd estimate that I cut 1/2" but they ended up like the ones in the first post and fit into the exhaust holes fine. One of my exhaust studs was damaged by the previous owner by cross-threading. Does anyone know if the exhaust studs are replaceable? I did manage to get the nut back on but with great difficulty and I'm not sure how well it's going to grab or stay. Anyway, my first drive into work this morning was backfire free so I'm a very happy rider. Thanks again.
92004-1214
http://www.onlinemicrofiche.com/shawneecycleplaza/shoppingcart/checkout/Viewcart.asp?Type=13

There are a lot of resources out there..Try searching this and other forums and Google..If you get stuck, give a shout out here..

Dont forget your anti-sieze when you install them in the head
 

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Thanks Rasmith, Do you know how to get the old one out?
 

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2 nuts on one stud. Tighten them against eachother then use the bottom nut to back the stud out. If you're not nut experienced, I would bring it in to a shop and have a professional do it. They shouldnt charge much.
I know I am nut experienced from hanging around you.... take that however you like. :D
 

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I just did this over the weekend as I was having what sounded like a loud exhaust tick. After the bike was good and hot it seemed to go away.
One cut to fit inside the other, and while I think it made a difference, I still have what seems to be a leak when the bike is cold?
It is not noticeable at idle but you can definitely hear it at 1500+rpm.
It doesn't seem like the chain noise and that would be always and never go away no?

Im kind of baffled as to what else to do to try and rid myself of the cold tick.
torqued to 20ft-lbs (3 of 4, the rear stud on the front jug was by feel) when the bike was cold would they loosen when hot and need re tightening?
used new nuts with lock washers.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Have you blocked your reed valves or removed them? And you can always have a crack/leak somewhere else in the system. A rich setting on a fuel module can also cause popping.
 

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Squires.....the recommended torque settings for the exhaust head bolts are 18-20 lbs. Mine are at 20 each. I removed my emissions system and now there is no such thing as any popping, backfiring, or similar. Your engine oil can also make a really big difference on those annoying little engine noises. Remember, you have a lot of hardware moving around in there. I use Castrol Actevo 4-T Extra motorcycle oil in my ride.....semi synth not full synth, and my motor is so smooth and quiet internally you would swear it is other worldly....for real. It also shifts almost too easily. Best lube for a v-twin I have ever encountered over the years and at around 31.00 per gallon, well worth it. Hope it helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Actually rereading it, a loud tick that goes away when warm would be the idle air control valves inside the stock intake. You can unplug the wires that go to them if you open up the stock intake bowl on the right side. If the noise goes away thats it.
 

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Not getting much if any popping, it is just the damn ticking.
It was much more pronounced prior to these new HD gaskets.
Once hot (20-30crusing km's) it doesn't/didn't make any ticking noise.

Tried the idle air control, wasn't that.(that said it was when I was using the old gaskets so maybe I should try again) and reed valve is blocked.
It is at the 1500+RPM range as I said before. When the bike is cold the noise is pronounced when slowing to a stop and then not noticeable at all when I haul in the clutch lever and RPM drop back to idle.

Biggest thing right now I want to be certain of is that it is not the Chain tensioners. When you get that happening shouldn't that happen all the time and all through the RPM range?

thanks again
 

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Looking for correction or clarification.....I thought exhaust bolts were 12-13 ft lbs for torque.....T-Meanie says they should be torqued to 18-20 ft lbs......who is right who is wrong, and what is correct, your answer is??????????, and after some additional research som e guys swear 14 ft lbs......now I'm more contused than ever !
 

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any one, Rasmith, streak07, bueller ???
 

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Discussion Starter #38
No time to check the manual right now. Will do so after I'm done convoying around tonight if no one else gives you the "book" answer. I'm usually guilty of not using a torque wrench on stuff unless its engine/suspension.

If its the tensioners they'll be louder at certain times. When the chain flexes thats when it moves around and can hit the case. Just pull them and check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Torque - Muffler Stay Mounting Bolts, 8 (lower):
25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
Upper Muffler Mounting Nuts:
25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
Upper Muffler Bracket Bolt and Nut:
29 N·m (3.0 kgf·m, 21 ft·lb)
 

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ON torqueing the exhaust head bolts......my settings are with aftermarket clamps that are one piece instead of the the stock two-piece ones. And, I do them a little tighter for two reasons, (1) to ensure no leakage and (2) to make sure the KAWASAKI crush gaskets are smooshed in tight and well seated. One more thing too.....I run Cobra pipes. I have never experienced any leaks on my exhaust systems ever. Ticking noises could very well be things functioning in those stock intakes.....I have had aftermarket breathers on mine since 2 1/2 years ago. And Squires......your cam chains should be just fine with that low low mileage you have on that motor...my 1500 has over 27,000 miles on it and runs supremely well...and smooth and internally quiet as well. Kawasaki v-twins are some of the best motors out there...with proper care they are basically bullet proof. Alot of how your motor runs and the noises it makes are dependent on what lube you put in there. And lastly......I would never place any Harley parts in my motor...even if it is merely just a set of crush gaskets. I have run two pairs of o.e.m. crush gaskets with two pairs of Cobra pipes and they work perfectly......always.
 
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