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Well, finally got the progressive springs in with 15wt oil. I had the LBS do it as the guy who owns it is an old diving buddy of mine and I trust him more than a little to do it right. (and he rarely charges me for more than 30 mins work regardless of the job)
What a difference!! only got 5 miles in, but some of the roads round here are terrible and more like riding over 100's of yards of railway lines.
Very smooth and none of the harsh frequency vibes that were there before. They showed up the rear Progressive 440's to be very harsh, until I checked for problems with them and realised I had set the pre-load right up when I had the Mrs on the back and not dropped it back down.
All in all comes in as a "Poke highly recommended 9" score for mods.
If you aint done it, get em changed.
 

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sorry for the old thread

im changing the forks seals and with that comes the oil. i was wandering if it makes a difference that i hace the 4 inch extensions in the forks because of the rake tree.
thank you
 

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Probably depends if they are hollow or solid. Best bet is to check the levels before you dump them. Don't have the shop manual so I don't know what they should be. Good luck, Troop and TomE are both gone now.
 

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Change the Fork Seals myself or pay the Dealer?

Front Fork Tool and Parts list via Ron Ayers

Ignore the dots. I had to use them for correct spacing (what a pain!:buried:)
I guess at least now there is one location with all the part numbers for a 2005 B2 model. The SKU's are Ron Ayers.

SKU . . . . . OEM# . . . . . . . DESCRIPTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .QTY @ Price = Total
612222 . . . 44065-1137 . . ."BUSHING-FRONT FORK,LH (44065-1137) " . . 2 @ $10.64 = $21.28
612223 . . . 44065-1138 . . ."BUSHING-FRONT FORK,RH (44065-1138) " . . 2 @ $10.64 = $21.28
1084585 . . 92033-1222 . . ."RING-SNAP,FORK OUTER (92033-1222) " . . . 2 @ $2.64 = $5.27
1087563 . . 92049-1590 . . ."SEAL-OIL (92049-1590) " . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 @ $11.48 = $22.96
1087563 . . 92093-1551 . . ."SEAL,DUST (92093-1551) " . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 @ $11.48 = $22.96
611916 . . . 44045-051 . . .."GASKET,FORK CYL BOLT (44045-051) " . . . . 1 @ $2.50 = $2.50
780327 . . . 57001-1502 . . ."FORK CYLINDER HOLDER (57001-1502)" . . . . 1 @ $90.87 = $90.87
780154 . . . 57001-1289 . . ."PULLER,FORK PUSH ROD (57001-1289)" . . . . 1 @ $17.54 = $17.54
780026 . . . 57001-1100 . . ."WRENCH,STEER STEM NUT (57001-1100)" . . 1 @ $32.33 = $32.33

Total rounded is $237.00 (before shipping)


I was told by the local dealer it was $340.00 parts and labor for the repair, not including taxes.

I have rebuilt/repaired/restored autos and truck in the past (excluding automatic trannys) so I am asking for the experienced cycle mechanics opinion on if I should tackle this myself? The price list includes purchasing three of the special tools needed. I might try to cut up a piece of pipe to make the fork cylinder holder.
 

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Gonna tackle this in a bit when my parts come in, any new updates or new tricks, ideas? Doing fork seals, 10/15wt oil, steering head bearings and progressive springs.....
 

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Anyone here ever swap out your stock fork springs for either progressive/Race Tech's( I'm going the Progressive route) and do it yourself ? I'm doing this with the forks on the bike, on a bike jack. I have a homemade tool to remove the inner fork bolt in the left tube but it seems kinda tight. I don't know the torque specs but I know it's tighter than "hand tight" and I'll prob need a pipe wrench to help me turn it loose.
Also, once the springs are removed, I plan on lowering the bike just tell the tubes are compressed and sucking out the old fork oil and replacing the old with = amounts of new 15w fork oil. Anyone ever try this with success ? Lemme know, and if not, I'll let you all know how it goes... Troop
 
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