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Discussion Starter #1
Hey! Just pulled my carbs to clean them, and after strapping them to my intake manifold boots, I realized I couldn't attach the air intake boots on, is there a way the carbs are put back? The fit seems really tight, and I could only put the boots back on through the air filter housing and it's a REALLY tight fit. :help:

Here's the what it looks like without the carbs:
20170917_190729.jpg
 

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You probably want to buy new ones. That's what most people do. Once they harden...it's a bear! I haven't bought them in a while...but they shouldn't be too expensive.
 

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If your knuckles are scraped and you cursed a few times, your doing it correctly. LOL Something I tried was to keep the boots in a bucket of hot water so they were a bit more pliable and a little bit of silicone spray on the flanges where they fit into the air box. If nothing else, the hot water felt good on my scraped knuckles. New ones would probably be easier like HBK said but, first time you do it, you don't realize what a PITA it's going to be putting them back on.
 

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Install the carburetor holders (boots) that go between the cylinders and the carbs onto the head first. Don't try to put the carbs on with them attached.

Insert the carb set next into those.

As the last step install the carburetor ducts (4 boots between the carbs and the air box) thru the inside of the air box.

Like Carryall said you'll scrape a few knuckles. As I recall the ducts are also carb specific due to the angles from the air box to each carb so if you have the wrong ones in the wrong place it's not going to work and make you curse. I've done mine 5 or 6 times and never had to use hot water or any other lubricants.
 

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Put them in hot water and feed them on to the carbs from inside the air box. i found that to be the easiest way to do it.
defiantly a lot less 4 letter words used lol
 

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When Shakey and Carryall agree it's done & done. These guys know their craft. Oh it's not a bad idea to have a new set of spares available carb to head and carb to airbox. Just saying, they'll never be less expensive than now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The head to carb intake manifold boots were cracked, but I gave them a new youth with non hardening gasoline resistant gasket maker
20170917_190710.jpg
they are airtight and fit right on the carbs with no issue. It's between the carbs and the air intake box that the fit sucks. I'll try the hot water method and see if that helps (fingers crossed)
 

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Appreciate the vote of confidence but believe me, I can still "mess crap up" or forget on occasion. LOL I didn't catch the OP's predicament with having the "sleeves" attached to the carbs before reinstallation. Good that Obo caught that mistake. That would make things a even tough fit for sure. He's correct on the specific/individual boot to airbox fit up also. If/when I pull mine next time, I'm going to mark or label both the specific carb and the orientation on each boot . It'll make re-assembly easier and take all the guess work out of the equation. (Too bad they aren't as easy as some of the old Hondas were.)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, the Carb Ducts are a pain. However I haven't labeled them (doh!) but they all seem to have the same size and angle... I was just wondering if there was a simple way to put them back on but it seems it wasn't designed to be easily pulled off!

Thanks Obo, I'll try your method out
 

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Yeah, the Carb Ducts are a pain. However I haven't labeled them (doh!) but they all seem to have the same size and angle... I was just wondering if there was a simple way to put them back on but it seems it wasn't designed to be easily pulled off!

Thanks Obo, I'll try your method out
They might not be all different, but there are inners and outers as I recall. It may just be which side you put top and bottom, but the distance from the airbox to the outer carbs is greater than the inner carbs.
 

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Yeah the 2 outer ones are different to the 2 inner ones.
not by much, but get them wrong way round and they wont seal
 

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What i do is cut two pieces of thin flexible plastic about the width of the bank if carbs and about six inches high. It should be smoothe on both faces.

Get the carbs in and sitting on top of the crankcases. Place the two plastic pieces so that each one covers the rubber pieces, ie one covers the head rubbers and the other covers the airbox rubbers. Now using the two plastic pieces to 'lead in' the carb. They will force the rubbers apart instead of upwards. Once the carbs are roughly in place.. pull the plastic pieces away. You will still need to seat the rubbers home but i find this way makes it much easier.
 

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I always sprayed them with silicon spray....Especially awesome when you scrape your knuckles, and the spray gets in the cuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I let them soak in warm water and they slipped in like gloves. I lined them all up while they were out, and I honestly can't tell any difference despite staring them down for 10 minutes... Anyways, bike started just fine with some minor carb adjustments. I had almost given up and built new custom fittings :kick:

HOWEVER, I do have another issue. Every now and then, when I pull the clutch in or when I go in neutral, the engine revs up to 5-6000 RPMs (idling at about 1.8k). Now I first thought the throttle cables were getting stuck somewhere along the line, but they slide smoothly and open/close the carbs without any issue (whit the bike running but not moving, I'd have a hard time checking it out while moving :p )
 

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Well, I let them soak in warm water and they slipped in like gloves. I lined them all up while they were out, and I honestly can't tell any difference despite staring them down for 10 minutes... Anyways, bike started just fine with some minor carb adjustments. I had almost given up and built new custom fittings :kick:

HOWEVER, I do have another issue. Every now and then, when I pull the clutch in or when I go in neutral, the engine revs up to 5-6000 RPMs (idling at about 1.8k). Now I first thought the throttle cables were getting stuck somewhere along the line, but they slide smoothly and open/close the carbs without any issue (whit the bike running but not moving, I'd have a hard time checking it out while moving :p )
If you turn the bars to either lock position when the bike is running does this affect the idle? Sometimes the cable routing can cause the cable to pull and increase the idle.

My only other thought is you have a carb sticking open some of the time or an issue with the choke.
 

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I think Obo is probably right when he suggests the throttle cable(s) routing. If the engine speed is unchanged while idling and turning your handlebars all the way left and right, then check that nothing is interfering with the carbs throttle linkages like a vacuum line, wire, etc. You can also check the manual for adjusting both of the throttle cables and how much free play the push and pull cables should have. Some times these bikes (ZR7) cable routing can be somewhat finicky, and others have reported similar issues but easily resolved with a little minor adjustments. Only other reason a bike would be slow on returning to idle, or "stick" on a high idle would possibly be in need of a carb synching but, look for the easiest and most common problems first. Congrats on getting it up and running tho, and post what you find and/or any questions regardless. Be safe, have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No, it revs up regardless of the bar's position. I checked on the cables and the seem routed just fine, carb opens and closes when it should, revving is independant
 

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Check both the choke cable and the bar that moves the choke plungers aren't stuck and/or working properly maybe?
 
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