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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
And boy was I in for a surprise. The bike likes to cut a lot more wide than my 650 did, but I think a lot had to do with the acceleration into and through the turns. I also felt like I was sitting up much higher than I was on my 650, and I watched my buddy on his R6S nose dive through corners, while I felt like my front wanted to come up constantly. It was nerve wracking with blind turns and work trucks just feet from you, but all in all it handled well. I'm using newer stock tires, but I think I need a new rear -- coming home last night it started pouring outside and on an acceleration from the light my rear did a quick fishtail and then caught.

Also, does anyone else WD40 after every wet ride? I live on the coast in Florida, so I am in a constant fight against rust!
 

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What's your sag front and rear? I ask because from the factory, my Z rode very low in the back, and turned more like a cruiser than a sport bike.

I ended up raising the rear with more preload and dropping the front by reducing the preload. Final settings were 30mm sag in rear, and just slightly more than 30mm in front.

Another thing to think about is that the position is more upright, with the bars closer to you. That means you're getting less of your own weight over the front end unless you make an effort. Also, if you are the kind of rider who moves his body to the inside of the turn (hanging off) you'll be naturally using the bars more for leverage, which will result in unintended steering inputs.

Good body position, a loose grip, and loose elbows count for a lot more on the Z than on other more sporting oriented bikes. You can ride a Z fast - but you have to be very smooth with your steering inputs.
 

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Cajstyle, with the 650 being an upright ride and the z1000 also being upright did you find that moving from the 650 was easy? I know that the z1000 has tons more power..... What was the most difficult thing to get used to? How long have you been riding and how long did you ride the 650

I ask cause i am really thinking about moving to the z1000 too....

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cajstyle, with the 650 being an upright ride and the z1000 also being upright did you find that moving from the 650 was easy? I know that the z1000 has tons more power..... What was the most difficult thing to get used to? How long have you been riding and how long did you ride the 650

I ask cause i am really thinking about moving to the z1000 too....

Thanks
I initially moved to a cruiser from the 650, but that only lasted for 3 months before I had the sportbike itch again, so I got the Z. The difference between the bikes is pretty stark even though they have roughly the same ergo's. I dropped my 650 20mm and put on clip-ons, but even then, my Z feels more aggressive. It won't be a hard transfer from bikes, Kawa makes great bikes and you already know how the clutch feels if you know it on 1 bike you know it on all of them!
 

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Get your suspension adjusted... makes a world of difference in handling. But the stock front end is notorious for wallowing... I call mine the "Wobbly Goblin", but I'm used to it now and only notice it if I try to tip in while still on the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Get your suspension adjusted... makes a world of difference in handling. But the stock front end is notorious for wallowing... I call mine the "Wobbly Goblin", but I'm used to it now and only notice it if I try to tip in while still on the brakes.
Last night I took it out for a drive to go to class, and I noticed that above 90 it likes to dive at the most subtle road bumps and it makes me nervous that I'm going to enter a full on tank slap just from driving. Of course it never did, but I keep my tire pressures at 42 rear, 36 front. Could these numbers be off?

Also my front forks are 3.5 threads out, with the dampener about 3 turns out, and my rear suspension is about 6-7mm of thread, haven't checked the dampener. I'm 6'4, 215lb.
 

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I am not sure about the 1st gen, but on my 08, I had to crank the spring(rear) down(tighter) about 6-7 full turns. I dont know all the lingo here, so bear with me. It keeps my rear rock solid through the curves or driving straight. It still does well w/ my girl on board, but she is 110lbs and knows how to ride. My front I had to crank the springs almost all the way clockwise(tighter) and the screw in the middle is midway between full in and out. I can hit curves like its on rails, it sticks and stays true. No wallowing or diving when in the turn. I had tank slap once while just driving straight, and hit a small dip in the road. Ever since I adjusted my suspension, its been great. Again, I dont ride very hard, but I can drag the foot pegs at most any speed. Thats enough for me. btw, I am 6'3", and 225lbs.
 

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A local shop organized a suspension setup day and invited a pro suspension tuner who went over the bike and helped setup the suspension. I took my 03 zed and we changed the rear sag, preload and damping according to my weight and riding style, it made a huge difference. I always used 42 rear 36 front per the manual, but the tuner told me to those numbers are for the maximum load of the bike so if you ride solo just use 35/35. Since then I use that and it made the ride better.
 

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Last night I took it out for a drive to go to class, and I noticed that above 90 it likes to dive at the most subtle road bumps and it makes me nervous that I'm going to enter a full on tank slap just from driving. Of course it never did, but I keep my tire pressures at 42 rear, 36 front. Could these numbers be off?

Also my front forks are 3.5 threads out, with the dampener about 3 turns out, and my rear suspension is about 6-7mm of thread, haven't checked the dampener. I'm 6'4, 215lb.
At your weight the rear factory shock is about right (spring tension) but the front is waaaaaaaaaayyyy too soft. You get the pogo-effect and the front doesn't track even. Stiffer fork springs and a proper set-up for sure will help out.
 

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I agree with whats said so far;
get it setup to your weight.
Get your air pressure right for your average temp and humidity.

I didn't like the stock Dunlop very much. It was alright, but since then every tire I've had has been WAY better. Those being Mich Powers and Mich Road 2's. Two Road 2's so far and they rock.

I can see how you'd want to prevent rust by WD'ing after a wet ride. I too live in a salty air, wet environment. I don't use WD each time, but I do wash my bike a lot and let it air dry. The coatings on all the metal will keep it in good condition unless you've got a lot of scratches and dings where the bare metal is showing.
Your chain might rust some but you should clean it frequently anyway.
 
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