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fi error code 39

27K views 53 replies 8 participants last post by  bangbangsmash 
#1 ·
Hello guys... In really need of some help on where to start. Let me give you the run down.. I ride a 2012 ninja 650 about 18k miles on it. I ride every day. I was just leaving the house was going about 10 mph an the bike died would not start back up an still will not. It turns over but don't fire. New battery it has gas in it. I'm getting an fi error code 39. ECU comm error I believe when I turn the key on I'm not hearing any noise from the fuel pump. I'm still at work so I haven't had time to check anything else. I'm not really to sure where to start when I get off I'm going to check fuses an connections. Its my main transportation it gets used everyday not sure what would make it just die like that.. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
It means that the ECU (computer) has lost signals from one or more sensors that it needs to run right.
Except for reseating all of the connectors going into the ECU board or box, there probably isn't much you can do.
A shop visit is probably required.
 
#4 ·
Yea a shop is kinda out of the picture for me kinda do it myself person.
This isn't your father's bike.
Automotive electronics these days is a complicated animal.
Unless you have a little training and the right equipment to trace signals, you are likely to do more harm than good.
Just for grins, look up the cost of a replacement ECU board.
I'm not saying that you need one, necessarily, but that might be a logical wild guess.
And that's all you will be doing, is making wild expensive guesses.

When the ECU isn't getting signals from the other computers and sensors, it just shuts down and that includes not telling the fuel pump to run.
 
#5 ·
Yea I know... Been looking around about 600 for a new ecu. I'm just going to have to do a run down with a volt meter an see if the ECU is sending anything out to other sensors an give my own power to the fuel pump an see if that's works on its own or not an go from there.
 
#7 ·
Why does it have a new battery? It is very possible you have a charging problem.

Once the voltage drops enough you can get, not always but it is possible, a communication error.

Charge the battery, check the voltage.

Also be wise to check the common connectors for corrosion.

It would be very uncommon for the ECU to fail. It is possible, but the failure rate is quite low. I would check all the simple things first. Battery, charging system, bad ground or corroded connection.

If you ride in rain or wash the bike a lot corrosion is a very strong possibility.
 
#8 ·
If you're cheap like me, you could start by obtaining a copy of the shop/service manual. I think you could PM the handsome fellow here in the same Ninja 650R Maintenance sub-forum (five or six threads down) for a copy. Btw, bringing the bike to the dealer/shop (especially if ECU is suspect) is good advice. :)
 
#9 ·
I just replaced the battery about 3 weeks ago that's why I say new battery. I downloaded the service manual long ago when I bought the bike been using it a lot the last few years.. I ride in rain all the time I live in florida I kinda got no choice lol.. So is going to the stealer the only way to fix this problem if its not some common misshap of corrosion or connecters?
 
#10 ·
So, what you waiting for? Get your voltmeter and go through each and every sensor and compare the readings versus service manual specifications. OR, you could bring the bike to the stealer (pay a diagnostic fee) and have their handheld diagnostic computer plugged into your bike's diagnostic port. Easy, peasy. :)

OR, get a Kawasaki diagnotic USB thingy from HealTech (usd200+) and plug it into your bike's diagnostic port yourself. It will read your bike's sensor values on the fly in real time (in theory). Enjoy.
 
#11 ·
To be honest I have no idea whats wrong with it, or how difficult it will be to track down. As a mechanic all I can do is start on a systematic approach and start trying to eliminate variables.

Since you just replaced the battery, I would absolutely check the charging system first. A charged battery should be 13 volts or more with the key off, and at 5k rpm you should be 13.5 + volts, be much better if it was 14 volts or better.

There is a mentality that comes with the OBD2 system, or a code system like we have here. People see the code, and assume that is whats wrong and that part needs to be replaced. This is a poor approach. The code gives you a starting point to look for a problem.

Check the charging system first. After that start unplugging connections and looking at them. If you see green corrosion, you need to clean it off. While you have a connection unplugged, put some dielectric grease in there and then put it back together. I do not know that bike very well, but all common connections should be checked. The stator connection, the regulator connection, the ecu connection, if there is a main disconnect near the neck of the bike for removing the upper fairing.....etc Also look at the wiring harness while you are doing this and look for discoloration from water drying, this could be a source of corrosion inside the harness. Check the fuse box for corrosion as well as the starter relay.

A quick way to check for a battery or charging problem is to try and jump start it off of a car/truck/lawn tractor. Make sure the vehicle you use to jump it IS NOT RUNNING when you jump it. If it starts, you have a battery or charging problem. If not time to start looking at connectors.

There is nothing magical about a dealership. I am not knocking dealership mechanics ( I was one for a bit) as some of them are truly amazing, but they are going to have to basically do what you are doing to find the problem, unless it is a known problem for this bike. No harm in doing what you can before you take it in, if you have to in the end.
 
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#12 ·
There is a mentality that comes with the OBD2 system, or a code system like we have here. People see the code, and assume that is whats wrong and that part needs to be replaced. This is a poor approach. The code gives you a starting point to look for a problem.
Correct! It is better to light just one little candle, than to stumble in the dark! Merry Christmas to all! :)
 
#14 ·
Originally posted by Easy Rider, in another thread when someone made a sarcastic comment that did not really help the situation or add any new or useful information...

Do you seriously think that added anything productive to the discussion ?
I don't.
 
#16 ·
Did you answer his question?

Is there any other alternative if I cannot find the problem than taking it to the dealer? The answer is no, not really.

It is interesting that when you are treated like you treat others you cry foul.

I had a much better answer, and gave it in detail. I was attempting to help someone, not talk down to them or be a wise butt.
 
#22 ·
And you said you like him lol.
 
#18 ·
You cannot. Like I said, I would try jumping it with another vehicle. If it starts you know it's a battery/charging system problem. If not you have eliminated some variables.
 
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#24 ·
When someone replaces a battery, it could be just a bad battery. Or it could be a weak charging system that is barely able to charge the battery, leading it to discharge slowly while the bike is running.

Being as the battery was just replaced, and I don't have the bike in front of me to look at (quite often just seeing the bike and owner, and talking to them give you clue's to help you figure out whats wrong) checking the charging system seems like the best place to start.

Interestingly most cars will run with no battery, meaning you can start the car and leave it running and then pull the battery out of it without killing it. Most motorcycles are NOt this way, even if the charging system is tip top it will not stay running if the battery is disconnected.

The reason that is important is because if you jump if off another vehicle and it starts, but dies the instant you remove a jumper cable well that's a completely dead battery. As in it's no longer any good. It takes a bunch of energy to start the bike, but does not require very much to keep it running in comparison. So if the battery is just low on a charge or old or marginal when you pull a jumper cable it should keep running. It may run poorly or stumble a bit especially when you rev it up, but it won't die right away. Just another clue..
 
#25 ·
It's funny how our bike works. If the meter unit couldn't talk to the ECU, it throws a Service Code 39 (yep, meter unit NOT the ECU). However, if the charging system circuit is malfunctioning ... eh, nothing. Heck, my Blue Sentra MY1993 will light up a red LED dashboard indicator when something is wrong with its charging system. On the bright side, our bike's meter unit could detect low battery voltage -- usually too late. Bazinga. :)
 
#26 ·
Trust me BlueS I am just don't have anyone with an extra battery around right now.. I got my battery on the maintainer/ charger now.. Its a new gel battery from cycle gear so I'm hoping it will hold a full charge of around 13v I'll test it soon as its done an get back to you guys.
 
#27 ·
Make sure when you take it off the charger you let it sit for an hour or so without connecting it to anything BEFORE you check the voltage.
 
#29 ·
I like how you are working your way (quickly) to the top of Easy's hate list, take the pressure off of being at number 1 off of me for a bit...lol

You know really the internet sucks for having a conversation, people don't always act like themselves, and you cannot always tell when someone is joking or being sarcastic. That said if you see enough of someones comments it's not hard to form an opinion of them based on their actions.

Heck I almost offended HBK the other day. I had a very sarcastic post that I included him in, and I think he took it as if I was serious.

This is odd, but when I go to Lowes or Home Depot, and I am not 100% sure of what I am getting into I go looking for a white haired old man. They are typically cantankerous and not blessed with amazing social skills, but they have a wealth of knowledge, and over all want to be helpful. This is how I see Easy. A bit rough around the edges, and not always easy to get along with, but really in his heart he wants to be helpful. He just goes about it in an odd way.
 
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#32 ·
Did the bike turn over? As in the engine cranks over but won't start?
 
#34 ·
To all who helped me thank you very much.. THEMAN expescially you wise words are always accepted here... It ended up being just a out FI fuse a 15 amp on left side of the ignition. Started up an seems to run fine going to take it for a test ride in the next hour.. Let you guys know how it goes...
 
#37 ·
The FI fuse blew like I thought. Which killed the power to the fuel pump.. So I replaced the fuse again an turned the key on fuel pump primed up I tested the voltage everything was par with the manual.. When I tryed to start the bike the fuse blew right away.. I looked over all my connection didn't see no bare wires or corrosion on any connector's or fuse panels
 
#39 ·
Does someone have a pdf version of the wiring diagram for this bike I can look at?
 
#40 ·
My Ninja 1000 Sx service manual (yes I know it is not the same) shows that positive battery power flows through the 15 amp FI fuse and is distributed both to the ECU, and to the relay box. In the relay box it sends power through the ecu main relay when that relay is powered up. Once it goes through that relay it goes back to the ecu.

Now that is not all that helpful really.

the bike starts and runs so thats a great thing. It tells me the ECU is fine, and I am assuming that the meters worked while you were running/riding it this last time before the fuse popped again? If so then the meters work.

The code 39 means the meter unit has not received any information from the ecu for 10 or more seconds. If the bike started and the meters worked you can throw this code out of your mind, it is simply a code that was triggered by the fuse blowing I would guess.

Thats the good news. The bad news is I believe you have a short or a corroded connection. The fuse is popping (thank God) because something is trying to pull to much power through it.

That can be difficult to find. I still think you need to go from connection to connection and look for corrosion, and also look for any signs of wiring harness damage, discoloration, dried water residue...etc

On the the guys on the 3rd gen section had a problem that turned out to be water getting into the wiring harness and corroding a common ground. Something like that can be very hard to find, even for a tech.

Electrical problems are for sure not my strong suit Boss. I wish I could be more help.
 
#41 · (Edited)
Hi Jay, the FI (15 amp) fuse powers the ECU, the fuel pump, and the fuel injectors. When B.Green replaced the fuse and put the ignition on, the ECU and fuel pump didn't trip the fuse. When B.Green started the bike, only then the fuse blew. Ergo, we can surmise that a fuel injector (or somewhere along those electrical lines) could be the culprit. B.Green, could you try rule out the fuel injectors by disconnecting their connectors? If the fuse still blows, then you have a harness shorting/corrosion problem. If fuse doesn't blow, then it's a fuel injector problem. Refer to service manual on how to check fuel injectors.


Yep, the cold doesn't bother him anyway. :)
 
#44 ·
When I replaced the fuse the first time before I went to ride it.. I had it on the stand an I ran threw all the gears all the way up to 7k rpm in 6th gear for about 5 secs then turned it off.. Got my helmet an gloves on got down the block then it died the second fuse blew as soon as I started it if that makes any difference.
 
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