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My Ninja 1000 Sx service manual (yes I know it is not the same) shows that positive battery power flows through the 15 amp FI fuse and is distributed both to the ECU, and to the relay box. In the relay box it sends power through the ecu main relay when that relay is powered up. Once it goes through that relay it goes back to the ecu.

Now that is not all that helpful really.

the bike starts and runs so thats a great thing. It tells me the ECU is fine, and I am assuming that the meters worked while you were running/riding it this last time before the fuse popped again? If so then the meters work.

The code 39 means the meter unit has not received any information from the ecu for 10 or more seconds. If the bike started and the meters worked you can throw this code out of your mind, it is simply a code that was triggered by the fuse blowing I would guess.

Thats the good news. The bad news is I believe you have a short or a corroded connection. The fuse is popping (thank God) because something is trying to pull to much power through it.

That can be difficult to find. I still think you need to go from connection to connection and look for corrosion, and also look for any signs of wiring harness damage, discoloration, dried water residue...etc

On the the guys on the 3rd gen section had a problem that turned out to be water getting into the wiring harness and corroding a common ground. Something like that can be very hard to find, even for a tech.

Electrical problems are for sure not my strong suit Boss. I wish I could be more help.
Hi Jay, the FI (15 amp) fuse powers the ECU, the fuel pump, and the fuel injectors. When B.Green replaced the fuse and put the ignition on, the ECU and fuel pump didn't trip the fuse. When B.Green started the bike, only then the fuse blew. Ergo, we can surmise that a fuel injector (or somewhere along those electrical lines) could be the culprit. B.Green, could you try rule out the fuel injectors by disconnecting their connectors? If the fuse still blows, then you have a harness shorting/corrosion problem. If fuse doesn't blow, then it's a fuel injector problem. Refer to service manual on how to check fuel injectors.


Yep, the cold doesn't bother him anyway. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #44
When I replaced the fuse the first time before I went to ride it.. I had it on the stand an I ran threw all the gears all the way up to 7k rpm in 6th gear for about 5 secs then turned it off.. Got my helmet an gloves on got down the block then it died the second fuse blew as soon as I started it if that makes any difference.
 

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I still think it could be a dirty filter overloading the fuel pump. I've seen it before. (Or an all together bad fuel pump.)
IF.....the fuse does not blow while the pump is priming......and the pump does not run more or less continuously without shutting off until the fuse goes......then that likely is not the problem.

Edit: Given the intermittent nature of when the fuse actually gives up, you might be right on the pump. It may be bad enough by now that disconnecting the pump would stop the fuse blowing.

I would NOT, however, recommend getting a new pump just on a guess.
 

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Be awesome if he knew someone with the same bike, he could just swap fuel tanks and go for a short ride.

I think the pump is more likely than a fuel injector. Typically when an injector fails it gets stuck shut or wide open. This would be super noticeable.

That said even if it is clogged I am not sure the pump could pull enough amps to pop the fuse.

Is the inside of the tank rusty?
 

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I know it's been a long time since this has been updated but it helped me out tremendously. I have a 2013 636. About 2 miles from my house on my way to work the engine just died on me. All the dash lights were flasking and code 39 was showing. Tracked it down to the 15 Amos fuse under the seat that plugs into the started relay with the 30amp fuse next to it. As I replaced the fuse it popped again. I found a nick in the wiring to the fuel pump and separated the wires only to blow another fuse. Then I disconnected the wire harness to the pump and voila, no blown fuse. Fortunately I had a fuel pump rebuild kit I've been meaning to use on stand by so I just started digging in. The metal shavings coming out with the gas as I was emptying the tank let me know I was on the right track. I also found some random screw that looked like it went to an electrical wall plate cover for a house. I dont know what the hell the previous owner did to this bike but thanks to this thread and a youtube video on how to rebuild the fuel pump it only took about 2 hours of research and work to get it rolling again.
 

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