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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys... In really need of some help on where to start. Let me give you the run down.. I ride a 2012 ninja 650 about 18k miles on it. I ride every day. I was just leaving the house was going about 10 mph an the bike died would not start back up an still will not. It turns over but don't fire. New battery it has gas in it. I'm getting an fi error code 39. ECU comm error I believe when I turn the key on I'm not hearing any noise from the fuel pump. I'm still at work so I haven't had time to check anything else. I'm not really to sure where to start when I get off I'm going to check fuses an connections. Its my main transportation it gets used everyday not sure what would make it just die like that.. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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It means that the ECU (computer) has lost signals from one or more sensors that it needs to run right.
Except for reseating all of the connectors going into the ECU board or box, there probably isn't much you can do.
A shop visit is probably required.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea a shop is kinda out of the picture for me kinda do it myself person.. I will check all plugs when I get a chance.. Is there a reason I'm not hearing the pump prime up anymore? I mean there's got to be you know.
 

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Yea a shop is kinda out of the picture for me kinda do it myself person.
This isn't your father's bike.
Automotive electronics these days is a complicated animal.
Unless you have a little training and the right equipment to trace signals, you are likely to do more harm than good.
Just for grins, look up the cost of a replacement ECU board.
I'm not saying that you need one, necessarily, but that might be a logical wild guess.
And that's all you will be doing, is making wild expensive guesses.

When the ECU isn't getting signals from the other computers and sensors, it just shuts down and that includes not telling the fuel pump to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea I know... Been looking around about 600 for a new ecu. I'm just going to have to do a run down with a volt meter an see if the ECU is sending anything out to other sensors an give my own power to the fuel pump an see if that's works on its own or not an go from there.
 

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I'm just going to have to do a run down with a volt meter an see if the ECU is sending anything out to other sensors
Well you see that's the thing; you can NOT tell what is or is not going on with the data buss with just a voltmeter.
It just doesn't work that way.
 

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Why does it have a new battery? It is very possible you have a charging problem.

Once the voltage drops enough you can get, not always but it is possible, a communication error.

Charge the battery, check the voltage.

Also be wise to check the common connectors for corrosion.

It would be very uncommon for the ECU to fail. It is possible, but the failure rate is quite low. I would check all the simple things first. Battery, charging system, bad ground or corroded connection.

If you ride in rain or wash the bike a lot corrosion is a very strong possibility.
 

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If you're cheap like me, you could start by obtaining a copy of the shop/service manual. I think you could PM the handsome fellow here in the same Ninja 650R Maintenance sub-forum (five or six threads down) for a copy. Btw, bringing the bike to the dealer/shop (especially if ECU is suspect) is good advice. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just replaced the battery about 3 weeks ago that's why I say new battery. I downloaded the service manual long ago when I bought the bike been using it a lot the last few years.. I ride in rain all the time I live in florida I kinda got no choice lol.. So is going to the stealer the only way to fix this problem if its not some common misshap of corrosion or connecters?
 

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I just replaced the battery about 3 weeks ago that's why I say new battery. I downloaded the service manual long ago when I bought the bike been using it a lot the last few years.. I ride in rain all the time I live in florida I kinda got no choice lol.. So is going to the stealer the only way to fix this problem if its not some common misshap of corrosion or connecters?
So, what you waiting for? Get your voltmeter and go through each and every sensor and compare the readings versus service manual specifications. OR, you could bring the bike to the stealer (pay a diagnostic fee) and have their handheld diagnostic computer plugged into your bike's diagnostic port. Easy, peasy. :)

OR, get a Kawasaki diagnotic USB thingy from HealTech (usd200+) and plug it into your bike's diagnostic port yourself. It will read your bike's sensor values on the fly in real time (in theory). Enjoy.
 

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To be honest I have no idea whats wrong with it, or how difficult it will be to track down. As a mechanic all I can do is start on a systematic approach and start trying to eliminate variables.

Since you just replaced the battery, I would absolutely check the charging system first. A charged battery should be 13 volts or more with the key off, and at 5k rpm you should be 13.5 + volts, be much better if it was 14 volts or better.

There is a mentality that comes with the OBD2 system, or a code system like we have here. People see the code, and assume that is whats wrong and that part needs to be replaced. This is a poor approach. The code gives you a starting point to look for a problem.

Check the charging system first. After that start unplugging connections and looking at them. If you see green corrosion, you need to clean it off. While you have a connection unplugged, put some dielectric grease in there and then put it back together. I do not know that bike very well, but all common connections should be checked. The stator connection, the regulator connection, the ecu connection, if there is a main disconnect near the neck of the bike for removing the upper fairing.....etc Also look at the wiring harness while you are doing this and look for discoloration from water drying, this could be a source of corrosion inside the harness. Check the fuse box for corrosion as well as the starter relay.

A quick way to check for a battery or charging problem is to try and jump start it off of a car/truck/lawn tractor. Make sure the vehicle you use to jump it IS NOT RUNNING when you jump it. If it starts, you have a battery or charging problem. If not time to start looking at connectors.

There is nothing magical about a dealership. I am not knocking dealership mechanics ( I was one for a bit) as some of them are truly amazing, but they are going to have to basically do what you are doing to find the problem, unless it is a known problem for this bike. No harm in doing what you can before you take it in, if you have to in the end.
 
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There is a mentality that comes with the OBD2 system, or a code system like we have here. People see the code, and assume that is whats wrong and that part needs to be replaced. This is a poor approach. The code gives you a starting point to look for a problem.
Correct! It is better to light just one little candle, than to stumble in the dark! Merry Christmas to all! :)
 

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So is going to the stealer the only way to fix this problem if its not some common misshap of corrosion or connecters?
Like what, for instance ?
Call around to independent shops.
Get a few hundred dollars worth of test equipment and spend several months in school ????
Trade it in on a new bike ??
 

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Originally posted by Easy Rider, in another thread when someone made a sarcastic comment that did not really help the situation or add any new or useful information...

Do you seriously think that added anything productive to the discussion ?
I don't.
 

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Do you seriously think that added anything productive to the discussion ?
I don't.
Get off my case please.
It did a hell of a lot more good than your crap slinging.

It DID answer his question in the best way I know how.
I did think it was kind of an odd thing to ask though.

If YOU have a better answer, let's hear it.
 

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Did you answer his question?

Is there any other alternative if I cannot find the problem than taking it to the dealer? The answer is no, not really.

It is interesting that when you are treated like you treat others you cry foul.

I had a much better answer, and gave it in detail. I was attempting to help someone, not talk down to them or be a wise butt.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
How do I check the charging system if I can't get the bike to run? Will it give a reading to the volt tester just from turning over?
 

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You cannot. Like I said, I would try jumping it with another vehicle. If it starts you know it's a battery/charging system problem. If not you have eliminated some variables.
 
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You cannot. Like I said, I would try jumping it with another vehicle. If it starts you know it's a battery/charging system problem. If not you have eliminated some variables.
B.Green, why not give THEMANRACING's suggestion a try? It's a cheap fix, and minimal (to none) consequences. Besides, three years and 18T+kms/miles later, perhaps your battery replacement is already long overdue. :)
 
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