[IrishCarBomb]

Hey guys long time lurker. Recently my 2011 ninja 650r starting cut out in the top end. It started to be every once in a while. Now on my last trip it lasted my whole ride home. I got home and checked my FI and it showed up as 52. Which is;

Stick Coil 2,

The stick coil primary
winding must send
signals continuously to
the ECU.

If the stick coil #2 primary winding has failures
(no signal, wiring short or open), the ECU
shuts off the injector #2 to stop fuel to the
cylinder #2, though the engine keeps running.

So i ripped my bike all apart and got to the coils. Both of them read about the same 2.1 ohms. I honestly have no idea what to do or what I'm looking for. I wasnt able to find out what the range was for my bike. If anyone has any suggestions itd be greatly appreciated

 

[IrishCarBomb]

Further details: it starts up just fine. It goes in limp mode when I try to ride it

 

[BlueSentra]

Could you try switching the stick coils (put stick coil 1 into cylinder 2, and put stick coil 2 into cylinder 1 -- no need to pull the spark plugs)? Run the engine, and if you get Service Code 51 then the stick coil 2 is defective and needs to be replaced. If you're still getting Service Code 52, then both stick coils are good; and you will need to check the cable/connector/ground voltages. The service manual will be great help. Just hope that it's just a loose connection or maybe a defective cable -- otherwise, you will have to replace the ECU (expensive fix).

EDIT: The stick coils' primary winding resistance (measured across the connectors) should be 1.1 to 1.5 ohms. The secondary winding resistance (measured across one connector and the spark plug tip) should be 10.8k to 16.2k ohms.

 

[djrussell]

Was there any noticeable damage to the stick coil? Some of them would crack and have problems from the moisture that got in.

 

[THEMANRACING]

I would put two new plugs in it and try exactly what BlueSentra suggested. That is a smart guy, with a very yellow helmet...lol

 

[Ozninjaguy]

Wouldn't switching stick coils require also switching wiring to the coil as the coil is set to ignite fuel on the combustion stroke (by way of timing and firing order and impulses from the CDI unit or whatever it's called these days)...

 

[THEMANRACING]

Yes thats what he meant. Just unplug the coils and swap them and then plug them back in. The coils don't know or care which cylinder they are working in.

 

[BlueSentra]

I would put two new plugs in it and try exactly what BlueSentra suggested. That is a smart guy, with a very yellow helmet...lol

Thanks Jay, I'm not an expert -- just trying to help a brother in need. Yep, new spark plugs might help but it's cheaper to try switching the stick coils first. Perhaps, switching the old spark plugs too. Rule out possibilities before buying new parts.

Wouldn't switching stick coils require also switching wiring to the coil as the coil is set to ignite fuel on the combustion stroke (by way of timing and firing order and impulses from the CDI unit or whatever it's called these days)...

Nope. In theory, the crankshaft sensor + throttle position + ECU determines the timing and firing order. No need to switch wirings. The two stick coils are identical, so you may make the switcheroo. In limp mode, the bike is essentially running with only one cylinder -- like a 325cc single piston oversized underbone bike with the ECU trying very hard to get you home.

EDIT: Hey Oz, it's one o'clock in the morning Manila local time. Senior citizens should be past asleep at this time. Or are you still partying? lol

 

[Ozninjaguy]

EDIT: Hey Oz, it's one o'clock in the morning Manila local time. Senior citizens should be past asleep at this time. Or are you still partying? lol

You know what they say Blue...you are only as old as the woman you feel...speaking of - off to bed now.

 

[IrishCarBomb]

alright guys im going to try switching the coils tonight. that is such a simple diagnosis I'm almost embarresed i didn't even think of it HA :doh. it was already late last night when i finally got to the coils and didn't try to take them out. Do they just pop out? They felt a little snug in there so i wasn't too sure AND i didn't wanna break anything. I was trying to find a how-to and didn't have much luck

 

[XPyron]

Yeah, they just pop out. Avoid pulling from the cable itself. I am sure you know that though.

 

[IrishCarBomb]

i have a feeling this is going to be a pain in the ***. the ligth does not always turn out right away, it normally takes a couple miles to kick in and turn on. not as soon as i start going. is there any way to check the coils without taking off the tank and air filter. I don't see how there would be but its better than assembling taking apart and assembling again

 

[IrishCarBomb]

After work update. My first coil is 2.1 and 12.8 and the other is 12.7 and 2.1. Neither coil appears to be damaged. Still scratching my head at this one of why it would throw a coil code if they are seemingly working.

Edit: pulled the spark plugs they're pretty crispy gonna go ahead and replace em since they're out.

 

[BlueSentra]

Try to get hold of the service manual (google is your friend). There's a procedure to follow to check the wirings/connectors from the spark plugs to stick coils to ECU (you will need a voltmeter, voltmeter usage skills, perhaps a buddy to help you, and several bottles of beer). Assuming your fuel tank, air filter, and stick coils are already out -- now is the best time to measure those wirings/connectors voltages.

To appreciate what you need to check, see pic below. You will need to trace the red line (black and black/green wire). The problem(s) is either the spark plugs, stick coils, wire leading from the stick coils to the ECU, wiring ground, or the ECU itself.

In lieu of the service manual, and are unable to test the abovementioned wirings/connectors, you could try switching the stick coils (or the spark plugs). You could also try to unplug/plug the ECU connectors to reseat any loose connections. Cheap fix.

Here are the part numbers, just in case you need to replace parts.

92070-0014 Spark Plug
21171-0028 Coil Assembly Ignition
26031-0705 Main Harness
21175-0187 ECU

OT: Hey Oz, I wish I have your strength and enthusiasm (and probably one or two of your women) to stay up wee hours in the morning. Maybe I should spend more time in the gym than spending time posting in forums.

 

[IrishCarBomb]

sighhh. thanks sentra, when it comes to turning wrenches i do just fine, but electrical problems are a whole new beast I'm not sure if i have the patience to handle. i have the oil drained out and am putting in stiffer clutch springs so once i get those in the mail i'll have to try all the suggestions above. i will try and get this thread updated for any future searchers

Edit: my main frustration is the fact it doesn't fault code instantly it takes a few minutes of riding to start doing it. Then the longer I drive the worse it starts limping off and on until finally the code stays on and completely goes to limp mode

 

[BlueSentra]

sighhh. thanks sentra, when it comes to turning wrenches i do just fine, but electrical problems are a whole new beast I'm not sure if i have the patience to handle. i have the oil drained out and am putting in stiffer clutch springs so once i get those in the mail i'll have to try all the suggestions above. i will try and get this thread updated for any future searchers

That is what a buddy is for. If you bring beer, buddy will come.

Edit: my main frustration is the fact it doesn't fault code instantly it takes a few minutes of riding to start doing it. Then the longer I drive the worse it starts limping off and on until finally the code stays on and completely goes to limp mode

Patience is a virtue. hehe

Kidding aside, you don't need to wait for the service code. You will immediately feel if the bike goes into limp mode. If it does, bring beer (see above) and have your buddy check those pesky wirings/connectors.

 

[Ozninjaguy]

Edit: my main frustration is the fact it doesn't fault code instantly it takes a few minutes of riding to start doing it. Then the longer I drive the worse it starts limping off and on until finally the code stays on and completely goes to limp mode

Ok, I'm no auto-electrician, but I do know that things like coils will bench test or static test ok, but when under load, if faulty, that's when they play up. What you describe is what I have experienced with bike coils before.

 

[BlueSentra]

Ok, I'm no auto-electrician, but I do know that things like coils will bench test or static test ok, but when under load, if faulty, that's when they play up. What you describe is what I have experienced with bike coils before.

It does look like the case, as ICB's stick coils' primary winding resistance readings seem to be way off. Off the bat, I would have recommended to replace the stick coils BUT something else seems to be amiss. Besides, it's also prudent to check everything before buying parts to save him the trip to the dealer. Wait a sec, OP could read resistances but not voltages? Hmmm...

 

[Ozninjaguy]

OT: Hey Oz, I wish I have your strength and enthusiasm (and probably one or two of your women) to stay up wee hours in the morning. Maybe I should spend more time in the gym than spending time posting in forums.

Blue - it's one of the joys of retirement - no alarm clock to wake up to. Stay up late, sleep late - reminds me of being a teenager. Re: women, I'm a good boy now-a-days, only have one.

 

[djrussell]

Edit: my main frustration is the fact it doesn't fault code instantly it takes a few minutes of riding to start doing it. Then the longer I drive the worse it starts limping off and on until finally the code stays on and completely goes to limp mode

That tells me the failure is brought on by heat.