fi code 21 crank shaft sensor

Hi IC,

I suspect your crankshaft sensor is still good (with 455 ohms resistance across the crankshaft sensor terminals) -- but it seems one of the crankshaft sensor wires is grounded to the bike's chassis. Please note that, unless you have a "peak voltage adapter" (a specialized electronics device thingy) eh you cannot reliably measure/inspect the "Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage". The "infinity test" is actually a test if one (or both) of the crankshaft sensor wires is (are) shorted to the bike's chassis ground -- no big deal, just big words.

That being said, trace the wires from the crankshaft sensor upto the ECU for any damage -- insulate with electrical tape any exposed (wounding?) wiring. Do the resistance and infinity test again. No need to do the peak voltage test (unless you have the device thingy mentioned above).

If all is good ==> re-assemble everything back, then attempt to start the bike. If the bike still throws you the code 21 (fingers crossed), then your crankshaft sensor is indeed fried.

I hope your crankshaft sensor is still good -- it's (p/n 59026-0018) a cheap usd60.00 part, but hassle to replace. Yep, you will need to drain the oil, open the clutch cover, replace the crankshaft sensor, replace the clutch cover gasket (p/n 11061-0165) with new, put sealant everywhere, close the clutch cover, and assemble the yada yada yada.

Enjoy and ride safe!

icskill said:

It gave me another fi code this time 62 which is the valve actuator when I jump her to the car battery. I can now hear the priming of the fuel pump but there is some strange noises under the tank like a clunky sound was it the starter motor? There is now a click sound when I try to fire her up but still no cranking<like back then when it reported the crankshaft sensor the difference is the clicking sound which was not there before>.

After I disconnected the car batt tried starting her again and went back to code 39 this time still ecu comm error. The clunk noise under the tank is now gone though and fuel pump priming is back. The meter is back to normal no more bouncing tacho.

Unfortunately there is no other ecu I can swap with.

Click to expand...

Yay! A working (priming) fuel pump is a good sign that your ECU is still functional, as the fuel pump relay is wired directly to the ECU.

It looks like you just need a new battery (p/n 26012-0556 BATTERY,YT12A-BS,12V) -- 100 bucks orig Yuasa from the stealer.

If your battery is still good, I would re-check the yellow/red wire (starter relay) connection. A break on that wire will not allow you to start the engine.

Again, I would like to exaggerately stress that the electronics (i.e. ECU, meter unit, gear indicator, Power Commander, etc) should be disconnected before any soldering be done.

3njoy and rid3 saf3!

p.s.#1 Funny though, I too tried to jump start my bike before (weak battery). Alas, exact same symptoms. Solution: new battery.

p.s.#2 The clunky sound you hear is just the sub-throttle valve actuator resetting its position prior to engine start -- perfectly normal (and a well documented issue in Youtube).

p.s.#3 Hey Oz! A Tropa (beer buddy) badly needs your help (ECU test swap). Although, it looks like moot now prelude to new battery. Hehe