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if you have a leak it needs to be fixed, not change oil.
True but the synthetic will tell you there is a problem far sooner than dino. And like any problem you might encounter with your bike, always go back to the last thing you did. Switching back to dino in this case does work but you are just delaying the true issue. How long it takes to develop that leak again depends on the bike and just how bad an issue it is. You could go years before you have to fix it but chances are better that since the synthetic got through, it won't be long before you are forced to fix it even if you waste the money to switch back. So I do stand by my point that switching back works. How long is the unanswered question.
 
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True but the synthetic will tell you there is a problem far sooner than dino. And like any problem you might encounter with your bike, always go back to the last thing you did. Switching back to dino in this case does work but you are just delaying the true issue. How long it takes to develop that leak again depends on the bike and just how bad an issue it is. You could go years before you have to fix it but chances are better that since the synthetic got through, it won't be long before you are forced to fix it even if you waste the money to switch back. So I do stand by my point that switching back works. How long is the unanswered question.
Synthetic oil is nothing more than refined dino oil. I know what the Internet says about it but it is probably more about the additives than the refinement process. When people started adding synthetic to their antiquated bikes, the bikes were old to begin with with dried out seals which would have leaked anyways. Then they blamed it on the synthetic.

I think it's best to park up your bike on the center stand if you have one to keep the oil in the sump instead of having it lay up against the countershaft and shift shaft seals. And also, it always seems the #1 carburetor develops the weeping bowl gasket first when bikes are left on their sidestand.
 

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Synthetic oil is nothing more than refined dino oil.

absolutely not. the reason it is so good is it is engineered from the start and the particles are all the same size so it can go where dino oil cannot. the reason leaks may come is that synthetic will clean up any gunk or deposits anywhere and the gunk may have been plugging a leak.
 

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Synthetic oil is nothing more than refined dino oil.

absolutely not. the reason it is so good is it is engineered from the start and the particles are all the same size so it can go where dino oil cannot. the reason leaks may come is that synthetic will clean up any gunk or deposits anywhere and the gunk may have been plugging a
Synthetic is made from a petroleum base oil. Then they add consistently sized friction modifiers. Nobody knows what they are because it's a trade secret between manufacturers. Synthetic oils are indeed better and may well find their way out of your engine through a dried seal. The problem isn't the oil, it's the seal.
 

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Synthetic is made from a petroleum base oil. Then they add consistently sized friction modifiers. Nobody knows what they are because it's a trade secret between manufacturers. Synthetic oils are indeed better and may well find their way out of your engine through a dried seal. The problem isn't the oil, it's the seal.
synthetic is synthetic, it is made from scratch. that is why it is called synthetic.
 

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There's many methods and they're all secret. But the oil threads are many and I've done battle in many.
Now I just buy JASO rated oils. For years I've gone the JASO MA Rotella route but a year ago the Advance autoparts chain was selling off their supply of Castrol full synthetic motorcycle oil for $1.79 per quart. So I drove around to all the stores in Boston and close towns to wipe out their shelves. I wound up with about twelve gallons of the stuff. LOL. (I like the Amsoil but it's way expensive now and troof be told, there's other oils just as good. If my bike blows up it'll give me a good excuse to buy another.)
With four bikes it doesn't last long however.
When it's gone I'll go back to Rotella.
 

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I'm not trying to sell amsoil but with what results i have seen for myself and the longevity of my vehicles there is no contest.
 

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Hello guys,
i wanna start a discussion that is very challenging across internet.
Can we use Car Engine Oil (with correct API & Viscosity) in a modern scooter like?:
Yamaha XMAX 250/300
Yamaha NMAX 155
Honda PCX150/160
and ...
Since the gearbox is separated from engine i think it is safe and i don't think Oil Companies actually pour car oil and scooter oil bottles with different oils ...
what do you think?!
Why take the risk:
Cost of correct engine oil versus WRECKED ENGINE.
 
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