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Discussion Starter #1
I've used both diesel or ATF to flush the engines on cars where the engine has been neglected and whats on the dipstick looks like tar. Sequence will be drain, new filter, 2L cheapo oil, 2 litres ATF. (more engine oil if flushing with diesel). drain. cheap oil and run for about 500miles. Then oil/filter change with good oil.

I'm thinking of doing this for the ZR. Main difference to cars is that ZRs have wet clutches so I'll probably flush with ATF as that has similar friction modifiers to deal with clutch-pack. What do you guys think?

If anyone is planning to this on your bikes/cars etc its important not to rev too much, On cars I dont go much above the 2000rpm...

Anilv
 

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My only thoughts are if the oil/engine is really bad there could be sludge etc that the flush breaks free. If that plugs up the intake screen you could be in for a world of oil starvation hurt.

From the service manual section 5-9:

Oil Screen Cleaning.
Clean the oil screen [A] with high-flash point solvent and remove any particles stuck to it.

A WARNING Clean the screen in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there is no spark or flame anywhere near the working area. Because of the danger of highly
flammable liquids, do not use gasoline or low-flash point solvents.

Check the screen carefully for any damage: holes and broken wires. *If the screen is damaged, replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Obo,

That's a good point .. Will probably drop the sump when I get around to it.

Its not really a problem now but the thing about doing flushes is that it should be done before it gets bad.. ie its easier to break down light sludge rather than wait until it becomes tar-like.

Anilv
 
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