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Clip-on Conversion Write-up w/636 Forks

4831 Views 5 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  atschach
Here is how I converted to Clip-Ons below the upper triple. There are many ways to do it. This conversion is great for the track. I took a few short test rides, the longest was maybe 45 minutes. My lower back was hurting; although, I think I have become slightly used to the position now.

The performance benefits are great. The angle of the wrist when hanging to one side allows for better throttle control. When I first got to the track after doing this mod I might have only ridden the bike 3 times with this setup. After two or three turns (not even a lap) I knew it was going to be great. I barely touched a peg all day, where as the previous trackday I was struggling to keep them off the ground. It took some focus to keep the weight off the wrist, especially trying to get back in the saddle coming out of turns, but a few sessions later I had the idea. As I got tired through the day I had to remind myself as I began to pull on the bars some exiting corners. To me this is just bad form and a lack of leg/core strength which I am working on.

Trials & Errors (my thread during the project: many questions answered here):

Anyways, here is how I did it.....

Z1000, ZX636 Forks, 2001 ZX9 Master Cylinder, Woodcraft 48mm (CBR600) Clip-ons, Spiegler Custom Brake Lines, Pilot Headlights

My goal was to use clip-ons below the upper triple without cutting the front fairing. Due to the way everything routed I had to replace the brake lines and headlight, and move the front fairing forward 2 3/4". I needed to keep some kind of headlight for doing test rides on the street, and so I can occasionally haul the bike to the mountains, but my main goal was to make the bike perform better at the track.

All Parts Needed:
Brake Lines
Custom Brackets

Woodcraft 48mm (CBR600 05+) Clip-ons plus 1 replacement bar (optional) - $155 shipped (STG)

Compared to 636 Clipons (which I first attempted to use)

Turn Signal brackets had to go

Difference between handlebars and clip-ons

Brake Lines
Spiegler Two Line Kit (Black Steel Braided Lines w/Charcoal Fittings) - $130 shipped (direct from Spiegler)
Line 1: 648mm Fitting 1: 090 Fitting 2: 000
Line 2: 685mm Fitting 1: 090 Fitting 2: 000

*** Note: For the Bottom Fittings (#2) I should have gone with Fitting 002 for the caliper side

Brake lines were too long: replaced with shorter lines & different master fittings

Relocated the brake line "hoop" to the front-lower stock headlight bracket

Relocated the brake reservoir and added two brackets to support it

Added this bleeder banjo bolt

Pilot 55W OEM Driving Lights - $20

Fabbed up the new headlight bracket which bolts between the fairing and the existing headlight bracket

Lower bracket bolts to fairing where lower headlight bolt used to mount

Upper mount

First time bike was ride-able in over a month

Quick test ride, at night of all times

The headlights bounced alot, so I added two more supports to bridge upper/lower brackets

Bracket without lights

Bracket off the bike




Custom Brackets (See Picture Below for individual pieces) - $12 (and many hours)

All Fairing/Headlight brackets made from 1" wide X 1/8" thick flat aluminum sticks (Home Depot). Bracket pieces were cut to the dimensions below and then trimmed back to line up. All dimensions and angles below are rough estimates.

A. Fairing Upper Extender x 2
Start with 6" piece; make 150* Bend with 1 1/4" extension; make 30* bend with 1 3/8" extension, leaving center straight at 2 3/4".

B. Upper Bracket Stabilizer x 1
5 3/8" piece.

C. Fairing Lower Extender x 2
C-1. Start with 4" piece; make 90* Bend with 1" extension, leaving 3" straight; trimmed to 7/8" vertical with 2 3/4" straight.
C-2. 2" piece.

D. Headlight lowering bracket x 2
Start with 4" piece; make 90* Bend with 1 5/8" extension, leaving 2 3/8" straight; trimmed to 2 1/4" vertical with 1 3/8" straight.

E. Headlight Mount x 1
9" piece.

F. Headlight Mount Stabilizer x 2
Start with 5 1/2" piece; make 55* Bend with 1 1/2" Extension; make 55* Bend with 2 3/4" Extension, leaving 1 1/4" center straight. Cut ~ 30* angle on bottom (1 1/2" extension) so stabilizer reaches Headlight Mount. Cut ~30* angle on outside of bottom to clear the inside of the fairing. (Many combinations of angles and lengths will work here; using trial and error I reached this one on the third try; although, I could have just drawn it on paper and used simple geometry)

Trimmed, Smoothed and Painted

Track Mode

With lights

Street Mode

Before & After Comparisons

The bars clear the tank on full lock; although, a violent tank-slapper may break my wrist. The 2 3/4" gap between the upper fairing is noticeable, but doesn't bother me much. Besides having to switch the brake lines out it wouldn't be too hard to go back to handlebars. I haven't even thought about mirrors or front blinkers until just now.

All-in-All it was a fun project, and very worth the effort for track performance.

Cheers! :alcy:
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1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Nice write up! Looks like the position is much more performance oriented now.
Does the footpeg position feel funky with the lower handlebars?
Does the footpeg position feel funky with the lower handlebars?
Not really. I am 6', almost all of that is legs, so the stock lower peg position has always been a comfort on the Z. If anything I would move them back an inch or so, and up 1/2 inch.

Near the end of this project I picked up a used drill press, and since then have been contemplating making my own adjustable rear-sets. I have to go back to my 2 non-bike projects that I put on hold before picking up a new one though.
Dunno how I missed this, looks good. That is a lot of work. Only suggestion I would have would be to use the stock clear plastic lense and tint it a bit and mount it up covering the dual projectors you have. I think it would clean up the hadlight assymbly a bit. With that being said your setup is very unique and looks great as is. Good work :alcy:
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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