[uriahk]

Did you pull the Fuel pump when you had the tank off? I would take the fuel pump out and clean it and the inside of the tank thoroughly, it sounds like you still have sludge in the tank somewhere.

+1

 

[Evilone]

+1

I didn't take the fuel pump out when I had the tank off. I'll have to take a look at that but that doesn't make sense really why it wouldn't run properly when it's almost out of gas and runs correctly when full.

 

[hagger]

I actually got a blob of oil from a fuel station in Wyoming once and my Jeep ran good when it was full but cut out and ran really bad when it got close to empty, of course I thought it was the fuel pump going out since fuel pressure was real low. I pulled the tank and found the oil so I just cleaned it all up and put the old pump back in and returned the new pump I bought and its still running great 13 years later. Sometimes you just never know whats coming out of the fuel nozzle at these stations. Have also came across vehicles that didnt have fuel in the tank but only the additives and they run bad too for no apparent reason until you take a sample out look at it.

 

[speedracer]

I didn't take the fuel pump out when I had the tank off. I'll have to take a look at that but that doesn't make sense really why it wouldn't run properly when it's almost out of gas and runs correctly when full.

It is possible if the pump is a little weak, the pressure on the pump will be more when the tank is full, so the pump will not have to work as hard as it would when the tank is getting low. But i am only throwing that out there and that may not the case at all.

 

[hagger]

I didn't take the fuel pump out when I had the tank off. I'll have to take a look at that but that doesn't make sense really why it wouldn't run properly when it's almost out of gas and runs correctly when full.

When you pull the pump out make sure you check the pick up and the hose for cracks. Any small crack can suck air when empty yet have no effect when full.

 

[Evilone]

Thanks guys. I will check the pump out today! A lot of what you're saying makes sense. I agree Speedracer, that could definitely be what is going on.

 

[Evilone]

Everyone who thought it could be the fuel pump was dead on. I started draining the tank and - wow - rust galore inside this thing. Pulled the fuel pump apart and sure enough the spring actuator inside the pump is stuck from rust. Picked up a new pump for $40 off the net, put some metal rescue inside the fuel tank and vroom, vroom, here we go. Running smooth as hell. Even when it is down to the bottom of the tank. So, definitely, the pressure from all the fuel in the tank was making it run properly pretty much but as the gas got lower and lower in the tank so did the forcefulness of the pressure on the pump. After it was all said and done I probably got a quarter pound of rust out of that tank. The guy that owned it before me must have let it sit for years without draining the tank or anything. Anyway, so to recap - if you've got a PCIII on your bike and the yellow wire is for sure in tact but it's still riding like a bull out of the shoot, check the fuel pump/gas tank next. I appreciate everyone's help and troubleshooting steps! I took it for a ride for 250+ miles yesterday without incident so I'm sure it's running flawlessly now. Ecstatic that I get to catch up with some riding now! I'll post some pictures of the ordeal and finished product soon.

 

[speedracer]

Everyone who thought it could be the fuel pump was dead on. I started draining the tank and - wow - rust galore inside this thing. Pulled the fuel pump apart and sure enough the spring actuator inside the pump is stuck from rust. Picked up a new pump for $40 off the net, put some metal rescue inside the fuel tank and vroom, vroom, here we go. Running smooth as hell. Even when it is down to the bottom of the tank. So, definitely, the pressure from all the fuel in the tank was making it run properly pretty much but as the gas got lower and lower in the tank so did the forcefulness of the pressure on the pump. After it was all said and done I probably got a quarter pound of rust out of that tank. The guy that owned it before me must have let it sit for years without draining the tank or anything. Anyway, so to recap - if you've got a PCIII on your bike and the yellow wire is for sure in tact but it's still riding like a bull out of the shoot, check the fuel pump/gas tank next. I appreciate everyone's help and troubleshooting steps! I took it for a ride for 250+ miles yesterday without incident so I'm sure it's running flawlessly now. Ecstatic that I get to catch up with some riding now! I'll post some pictures of the ordeal and finished product soon.

never fail the men on here are the best for sure. Glad it is up and running.

 

[TIMRAMONEJ]

02 meanstreak

Got the spike intake today, not to bad but it needs a few tweaks to make it work correctly. First as was mentioned in a previous post the outer piece that the filter is on will not fit snug to the mounting plate. The problem is the bolts are not counter sunk enough, counter sinking them will fix this but will also remove the chrome from that area but not a big deal, you can not see that. It is the back hole that needs work the front is fine. Also I will make a gasket for that as well. I will also make a gasket for the plate that bolts to the TB. Actually there will be gaskets for all mating surfaces. The other problem is the filter, it does not seal on the tube, it just sits in the spike cover and moves around ( not good ) so to fix this i put a large rubber vacume cap in the end of the cover, that puts pressure on the filter and now it seals. I will have pics on thursday on the install, i am just mocking it up today. One more thing, if you cut off the air tubes as i did you will have to plug those holes in the plate. They supply rubber caps to put on the tubes, that would work great if the tubes protuded through the plate (not cut ). Also the filter mounting ring is held on with two set screws, that is fine but where the two pieces meet is not sealed, so i will put either an o-ring in it to seal or put a bead of rtv.

do you have any other picks and what did you do with the 2 sensors

 

[lee]

You'll have to either find a place to attach them somewhere under the tank, or just remove them entirely. The only downside to removing them is you may need to use your fast-idle knob when you start it up cold. That's what I've done.

 

[GMCCSteve]

Just purchased a spike air filter. A few things I’d like to ask: I know fitting of reed valve block off plates won’t have any effect on performance. However how will removal of the ISC valves affect starting? Especially on a cold day? Or will it cause it to be over-rich mixture? I have a Motea exhaust system which is baffled sufficiently to give enough back pressure but for some reason they no longer used a balance pipe which isa shame but on the up side looks better. Does the use of the spike require a Power Commander? Or is the standard ECU ok? Many thanks for any helpful info GMCC Steve

 

[deanosaurus]

Just purchased a spike air filter. A few things I’d like to ask: I know fitting of reed valve block off plates won’t have any effect on performance. However how will removal of the ISC valves affect starting? Especially on a cold day? Or will it cause it to be over-rich mixture? I have a Motea exhaust system which is baffled sufficiently to give enough back pressure but for some reason they no longer used a balance pipe which isa shame but on the up side looks better. Does the use of the spike require a Power Commander? Or is the standard ECU ok? Many thanks for any helpful info GMCC Steve

So I've had the spike installed for a month now, I added a filter to the reed valve tube so I didn't have to take my tank off. I'm currently working on "relocating" those valves so I can have a better time starting the bike as it seemed to have trouble with out them and pulling the choke is a pain (what year is this 1986? come on now). I'm using the back plate from the left side and removing the filter from there and running tubing and wires (which I had to extend by splicing in some wire) where the old crossover tube went. Then I'm going to use the same kind of "crankcase breather" filter on a T joined to the two inputs of the valves.

The first pic shows the basic premise, the second is with the backplate attached. You see the tubing going in through the middle and the inlets will run down to that barbed T. I'm going to put the little mini filter on the middle part of that T.

Then the wires I will feed up through that curved piece that used to be for letting air into the backplate. Then I'll put the cover on and close'r up. The third pic is the tubing coming back through the other side that will just hook onto (and be worm-clamped) the ports they were previously hooked to (right now I just have them joined together with a short piece of tubing which effectively blocks it off. Hopefully all this will make it start easier...that and I just upgraded the battery to an 18 AH 270 CCA (the one that came with the bike was a 14AH, MOM recommends 18).

When I get it all up and going I'll post more pics and let you know how it does.

As far as ECU I have the FIR2000 but the non adjustable one. It's garbage and I plan to eventually replace it with the PCIII when I have the $

 

[lee]

Blocking the reed valves won't affect starting but removing the solenoids will. The only thing the solenoids do is add air, controlled by the ECU based on the temp sensors, to the TB to raise the idle. You may need to pull the fast-idle knob (there is no choke) to compensate depending on the weather. The mixture won't change.

Most agree that you need a fuel processor or the bike will run too lean. You could run it a while and check the plugs, some have reported that it's fine, but you definitely don't want it too lean.

 

[Nick7182]

im really late to things, just got a meanie last year. I have Vance and Hines and a used thunder tornado intake I just put on, also have the pcIII power commander. It feels like the bike lost power after I put the tornado air kit. The only install instructions I could find were for the Kuryakyn hyper charger, i can’t figure out the vacuum connections. I blocked off the large hose that comes off the top of the engine. I connected the smaller hose coming from under the intake to the Tornado intake. But the instructions I found say I should be running a vacuum hose from a nipple on top of the intake ( under the gas tank ) down to the one vacuum on the new intake, but then what would I do with the hose that was under the intake? Any help would be great.