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cheapo spike intake install / fix

46053 Views 73 Replies 28 Participants Last post by  Nick7182
Got the spike intake today, not to bad but it needs a few tweaks to make it work correctly. First as was mentioned in a previous post the outer piece that the filter is on will not fit snug to the mounting plate. The problem is the bolts are not counter sunk enough, counter sinking them will fix this but will also remove the chrome from that area but not a big deal, you can not see that. It is the back hole that needs work the front is fine. Also I will make a gasket for that as well. I will also make a gasket for the plate that bolts to the TB. Actually there will be gaskets for all mating surfaces. The other problem is the filter, it does not seal on the tube, it just sits in the spike cover and moves around ( not good ) so to fix this i put a large rubber vacume cap in the end of the cover, that puts pressure on the filter and now it seals. I will have pics on thursday on the install, i am just mocking it up today. One more thing, if you cut off the air tubes as i did you will have to plug those holes in the plate. They supply rubber caps to put on the tubes, that would work great if the tubes protuded through the plate (not cut ). Also the filter mounting ring is held on with two set screws, that is fine but where the two pieces meet is not sealed, so i will put either an o-ring in it to seal or put a bead of rtv.
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intake pieces and after gaskets and install.


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Nice, yup thats exactly what I did, except I didnt fix the loose filter problem yet. not to hard to get this intake right, looks great and definitely worth it IMO, im happy with mine so far.
yes nice piece for the price. The loose filter is a problem because it does not seal and or filter with it being loose. easy fix though.
no not yet, just put it on Thursday, but i did put a bead of high temp rtv between the piece that the cone cover fits to and the tube. Also when you put the spacers on the filter ( i used rubber grommets ) you will have to push a little on the spike cover then put the bolts in. You don't want a lot of pressure on the filter or you will distort it. I for got to lock tight all the bolts so i took it back off this morning and done that. Also i had a concern that it was vibrating and hitting the tank, ( which freaked me out, new paint and all ) so i stopped on my way home this morning and put a rag between it and the tank. After looking it over it was fine, but man it is close to the tank. I did notice that i did not hear the intake sucking that i had with the chuckster set up and the exhaust had a slightly deeper tone. We will see if my millage changes, hopefully not.
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Pretty cool looking... How does it breathe and will it be a pain to change the spark plug???
no problem on the plug
How is the cone retained? Where do you buy replacement filters?
the spike cover holds the filter, have no idea on replacement filters, should never have to replace, just clean and reoil.
yup "shouldnt" ever have to lol although I contacted all the sellers that sell these on ebay about purchasing replacement filters, just in case and ............... none have answered.
not surprising, I am sure there is one out there, k/n more than likely has one.
d2moto.com has a replacement K&N filter for this intake.
thanks it looks like it is part # kn sp-3301
speedracer I have the same air kit, dumb question what do you do with the left side ,do remove the stock air? Thanks in advance.
yep, removed all the stock stuff. Some have relocated the horn to the left side, that looks good.


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Long day toady speedracer,, removed the gas tank, blocked off reeds and removed all the plumbing, installed spike air kit, tomorrow I will clean up the left side. Here are some pics. Thanks for all your help!
Looking good. Are you taking the plastic air tube out?
Speed racer are you referring to the tube under the spike air cleaner. If so I'm tackling it tomorrow. Did you keep the solenoids, I've doing everything by trial and error and the info I receive from brothers like yourself. I ordered a shop manual so I can learn part names.. lol
yep the one that went from the filter to the right side intake. You may have to remove the intake to get it out. I had to cut off some of it to get it out. You will see what i mean when you look at it . Yes i removed everything that went with the solenoids as well as all the hoses and stuff for the reed valves. I have a copy of the service manual i will send you if i can
I got my spike put it on and really liked it....I was coming home the last twenty miles of a Sunday 150 Mile cruise and hear something look in my mirror and i see the cone bouncing off the side of the road!! Well I guess the set screws were not tight enough or backed out, even after I took some advice and put lock tight on the set screws. Bummed because now I need to shell out another $100 for a new spike(after looking in the bushes for 45min I gave up and never found it) . Lesson to the the story I think the next one I get I will drill a hole through the flange piece and put a bolt on the inside or get longer set screws. Hope this does not happen to any one else.
I have one i can sell ya. I am using the K&N open filter like the filter on the thunder intake, so i have the complete filter assembly that goes onto the 3" piece.
i have a question about that spike filter also. been looking at that on ebay for while now but i cant tell where the ait temp sensor gets mounted and does it even mount to the base plate
yes it does. it will thread in on the rear bottom
I am installing the cone setup and my throttle body plater is the the same shape as the throttle body, does not have the drop down area for thetwo small tubes, or any of the two rubber hoses any ideas on that and what i can eliminate and it all still work
just cap those off as you would anyway. You should have two threaded holes in the bottom of the adapter plate, one is for the intake air temp sensor and the other for the crankcase breather tube.
this kit is a close of the procharger ( i think thats the name) the other is a clone of the thunder. I have the thunder clone but think the one in this link would flow better. ( more direct air into the TB)
just bought this kit. will be selling my other kit cheap. Nothing wrong with the other kit, just like the looks of this one better and think it may flow better.
this kit is a close of the procharger ( i think thats the name) the other is a clone of the thunder. I have the thunder clone but think the one in this link would flow better. ( more direct air into the TB)
this kit is a clone of the forcewinder
So, I got Speedracer's handmedown spike air cleaner installed. Not too hard, looks good and seems to work well. One question...

I now have an extra vacuum tube that used to go into the top of the right air cleaner. Red arrow here. I gather that that's commonly blocked off, or the whole vacuum switch is blocked off with plates to reduce backfiring.

I don't seem to have a backfiring problem, so my question is whether it should be blocked off, or if there's a negative effect of leaving it alone.
yep that is the hose that gets the marble. If you are installing the coasters ( reed valve block off plates ) all of the hoses, valves etc. that is with that system is removed. if you leave that open and still have the reed valves in i would think that would not be good for the engine. That tube was getting filtered air b/4 you put the spike intake on.
That's what I thought, I'll get that plugged asap. I actually wasn't clear on which way the air flowed in that system. I meant to put my hand over it this morning to check, but was in a hurry and forgot.

I am really not to sure how that system worked but i have all that stuff removed from mine. If you don't have the block off plates you can still remove everything and just put rubber caps on the reed box's on each cyl. where the hoses were.
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