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Thought I'd spend about 20 minutes tonight and change my chain. You know, line up the master link on the rear sprocket, take off the lock, pop the plate off, hook the new chain onto the old chain, turn it onto the sprockets, put the new plate on and lock and then be done.........WRONG!!!. There is no master link on the original chain. My 4" grinder made short work of the situation. Be advised, your original chain may or may not have a master link.
 

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Martin,

I think most chain mfg's want you to change the sprockets and chain at the same time. You can try any type of carbon plate blade to cut the chain off. I did it with a sabre saw wasy back in the early 80's. It's was a messy job...:?

Good luck!

Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had 17,000 + miles (mostly hwy miles). Probably shoulda changed around 15,000 to 16,000. I measured the sprockets and they are just out of spec, but the new ones are on the way, so a couple days isn't gonna matter much.

Cutters may work, if you have an old bicycle chain to test it on it might give you some indication of how it's going to go, but the grinder is easiest. I used my drill with a grinding stone before. Takes a little longer than the grinder, but still does the job.

FWIW, I've found that it's much easier to hook the ends of the new chain and old chain together and pull the new chain onto the sprockets, (in particular the counter sprocket) and you can change the sprockets either before or after you do the chain.
 

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Chain Repalcement?

Martin64.....The chain on our bikes is and endless chain as you found out. The reason for no master link is strength and durablity. I'm not sure ...key word "not sure" how safe it is to convert this bike to a master link system. My dirt bike days were the same way. You either take the swing arm apart or buy a chain tool. I would ask an expert his opnion about this subject. If you ever have thrown a chain and had it wrap the back wheel and lock it up, its not fun on dirt! I can only imagine on the highway at 80MPH. The master link is the weakest part of the chain and has a potential to come apart. I have seen it happen!! Again I'm no expert but I will replace mine with an endless one so I have no weak link. Its more work but well worth the time!! The ZR7S manual notes this in Section 9-5. " For safety, use only standard chain, its and endless type and should not be cut for installation". They then show how to install it and the new sprokets. Not trying to be a wise *ss here, just dont want to see a fellow rider go down! I'll be glad to scan the pages from the manual and email them to you if you dont have one. Good luck and ride safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info, but it's already a done deal. I thought about their reasoning and decided that if the ZR was a big "Torque Monster" or if I did alot of hard riding it may be of more concern, but 90% of my riding is pretty mello freeway commuting and the other 10% isn't real hard riding either. I try to keep the hard, abusive riding for the dirt.
 

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Old dirt trick but make sure the circlip on the master link is squeezed with the U section in the right direction.

As you rotate the chain the closed portion of the circlip should lead the way, not the open end, which can snag and get flicked off without you knowing.

:)
 
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I once had a properly installed master link fall apart on a street bike I owned 10 years ago. Both the master link clip and plate come loose, all that was still in there were the pins. Luckily, I was sitting at a gas station drinking a coke and somehow noticed it. Thank you, my guardian :angel:

Since then I have only replaced one chain & sprocket set (always together) and needless to say it was an endless type chain. Sure, you havé to take the swingarm off, but that gives you a chance to inspect all your bearings & linkage.
 
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