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How long has the company been around? A lifetime guarantee is worthless if they go belly-up before you can ask them to make good on any guarantees. They have a lot of disclaimers and caveats to fulfilling their guarantee too.

If the manufacturer is not willing to reveal what grade of titanium is being used, and what percentage of titanium is in the composite metal, then it would be impossible to make an informed decision about the quality of the sprockets and chains they advertise. I peeked around at a few other motorcycle forums, and someone who tried titanium sprockets (maybe sidewinder, not sure) suggested the rate of wear was comparable to steel sprockets.
 

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before i go back to the reputable shop looking like an idiot..ill open my mouth here and chance it instead lol....

i went in and asked for a chain for my zr7s...at the time i assumed he had given me the correct chain....but today when i was done cleaning everything and ready to install it i noted its a 530 not a 525......so..whats the differance......also turns out i need a rear sprocket too since this ones got chiped teeth...the front one looks new tho o.0
 

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before i go back to the reputable shop looking like an idiot..ill open my mouth here and chance it instead lol....

i went in and asked for a chain for my zr7s...at the time i assumed he had given me the correct chain....but today when i was done cleaning everything and ready to install it i noted its a 530 not a 525......so..whats the differance......also turns out i need a rear sprocket too since this ones got chiped teeth...the front one looks new tho o.0
Generally, roller chain is denoted as follows: the first digit specifies the chain's pitch, in 1_8 inch increments. The remaining digits correspond to the width of the chain in 1_80 of an inch. A 530 chain, then, has a pitch of 5_8 inch, and a width of 30_80 inch, or 3_8 inch. A 520 chain is 1_4 inch wide, correspondingly lighter, but also somewhat weaker than a 530 chain. There are some exceptions to this; For instance, 125GP machines utilize a 428 chain, which is a 425-sized chain with slightly thicker sideplates. Front sprockets are usually steel, but rear sprockets are available in either steel-which is somewhat heavy but lasts a long time-or aluminum (lighter, but less wear resistant).

Sport Rider-Free sport bike motorcycle horsepower by changing gearing
 

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hey shortlife, hopefully yours ain't as bad as this one here :laugh:

http://www.riderforums.com/daily-ride/74554-time-new-chain.html

As far as I understand it, the 530 is used for bikes that put out much more power than the zr-7 (e.g. zx-14 or something like that).

Basically, it has a bigger contact area (e.g. the space between the inner plates is bigger), hence spreading the force over a wider area.

To gain the maximum advantage of a 530 chain, you'd also use a 530 sprocket, else you won't gain any additional contact area. Of course, with the increase in contact area, all the parts of the chain has to be strengthened and the chain will of course be heavier.

However, if you're not inclined to return the chain back to the store, there really is no problem using the 530 chain on your bike. There's just no real advantage to it. You'll just be using a heavier chain and losing a little power because the chain is heavier.
 

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so hevier AND stronger..so its not going to stretch as fast right?...obviously i wont get full effect cause of the narrower front sprocket...but outside of that it just shouldnt stretch as fast right?....hell if thats the case im all for a chain thats not going to stretch as fast....i do ride it like a sport bike...and HARD...so less stretch GIMMY!!!...ill post up my rear sprocket when i get it off..im not sure if its worse than taht or not...its pretty bad lol....my chain however you wouldnt think much of it by looking at it..it looks well cared for...its just soooooooooo stretched i had ZERO adjustment left and it was no longer riding in the sprockets correctly

the shops closed today so ive got another day to descide
 

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if you're going with the 530 chain, why not convert the sprockets to 530 at the same time?
I've never run the mismatched chain with sprocket so can't give you a "real world" opinion.
Theoretically, it should work but it won't be as snug as a matched chain and sprocket.
 

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well considering im going to have to get a rear i may very well do just that...tho seriously the front one looks new but fronts are cheeper than rears lol...ill hit the shop in the mornin..just got home from work
 

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looks like your crush drive has crushed WAY too far...its a ring of rubber wedges that cushions the blows of every shift and hard launches
 

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I am curious if using marvel mystery oil on a brush to clean a chain would hurt Teflon O-rings. I tried sea foam because it is safe for Teflon coated throttle bodies(ford) but it really didn't do anything by itself.
 

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I use kerosene to clean my chain and some heavy weight oil to lube it. And some bel-ray spray lube for maintenance lubing.
 

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Hi JonF!

I'm writing from Spain.....My ZR 7 has 29.500 km now, the chain doesn't lose o ring grease and doesn't make noise, only I tensed it. But I think in a few km, I have to change the chain. I see the plate (38 teeth) good...what kind of chain did you install in your ZR 7? EK Quadra X ring 525? This bike uses Enuma MV-X 525 108 links....I good like to mount a similar chain or better.... Do I have to change the two plates (16-38) too? ....thanks
 

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EK, RK, DID and Tsubaki chains are considered good brands.

The Bikemaster brand is good quality for a low price: X-ring chains usually last longer than O-ring chains because they hold more grease/oil and for longer.

Many go by what local mechanics recommend- there are local differences- a windy desert with small quartz sand pieces in the air is different than a rainy area with softer limestone rock.

It is best to add 2 new sprockets when adding a new chain, so the new chain lasts longer.

However, if you replace the old chain before it starts to damage the sprockets too much, it will save you money to use 2 chains for every set of sprockets. This is less of a risk for normal street riding and for engines with less power.

I did this (2 chains in a row for the same sprockets) for my 30-horsepower cruiser, but will not risk this for my 90-horsepower ZZR600 when it needs a new chain.
 

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I see this kit in a Spanish web where I bought oil and filters, they work very well...DID 525 VX(16/38/108 with sprockets 16D and 38D, DID X-RING G&B525VX/108, Is it a good kit? 109€....the upgrade is ZVM-X the VX is OE equivalent in DID. But the original is MV-X , what's the different betwen VX vs MV-X?
 

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It is a good kit. Maybe a mechanic could explain why it is second place to some other kit.

For VX and MV-X differences I am not sure- look at the tensile strength for each. If the company is honest about the numbers, the chain with the highest tensile strength usually lasts the longest, and usually costs more.

Also, only buy sprockets with steel teeth, unless you are trying to save 0.1 second during racing and don't mind paying more for this. The aluminum teeth back sprockets wear out a lot faster for their slightly lighter weight.
 

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I'm replacing my chain this Fall. The front and rear sprockets have been ordered and are in transport.

I'm going with an EK brand as they have new screw master link for some of their chains. It has a higher confidence level over a clip master link.

The exact chain model I'm still debating on. I've narrowed it down to either ZVX3 or SRX2. Both will cost about $200.

Easy to install: Insert link, use a wrench to tighten the nuts, snap them off with pliers, tada. No chain press or rivet tools needed (which saves me from buying one or paying a dealer to install my chain.)

EK Chain SLJ Master Link.png

I'd go with a rivet but the EK chains seem to use a quad stake head which most rivet tools do not do, unless you buy the $200 heavy duty MotionPro along with the $25 add on parts for quad stake rivets.

Anyone have any experience with the new screw links?
 
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