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Hi very helpfull indeed. can i ask you something since i believe you are a professional....I forgot to put back the spring which goes below the filter oil. if you got the servuce manual you can see it. It is a big problem? I just noticed now after 3 weeks when i saw the spring in the old oil tank. The bike looks like goes ok....just let me know...THANKS
 

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All i would like to say is a big thank you. the time and money that this forum has saved me is beyond words. i passed my test at the end of july and bought a 2000 model zr7. what a beautiful and friendly bike for a newcomer. i have done 9000 miles on it up to yet and i hope many more will follow. anyway with the information off here i performed my first ever carb sync today and a general tune/clean of the carbs. i adjusted the pilot screws to 2 1/2 turns out and am amazed at the difference this has made. i am not afraid to work on any vehicle but was a bit apprehensive of my first stab on a bike. this forum has took all the fear away. just to let you know i made my own mamometer out of some clear pipe the right size for the carb nipple and fixed it to a landing net handle which i marked off in inch increments. i filled the pipe with a redex liquid that was easy to see because of the colour and safe should the carb decide to drink it. total cost was £3.50 for pipe and redex. anyway thanks all for the information you have all provided and any questions just ask. i will keep my eyes out on a daily basais on here and will try to provide help to anyone that needs it.
 

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Hi Andy,
:welcome:

I deduce from your use of £, as opposed to $, that you're in the UK. Where abouts?
I'm up in Central Scotland......no snow but plenty of rock salt on the roads.

Glad to have another Brit on board!

Graeme
 

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hi graham. you are correct i am from the midlands. wolverhampton to be exact. am i right in stating the zr7 is a fairly rare bike in the uk. also a question for a gentleman who lives in a cooler climate also, do you have any problems with icing in the carbs. my bike likes to drop a cylinder or two recently and have changed plugs and balanced the carbs and checked idle screw settings. it tends to clear itself and run normal after about another 15 mins. its causing me a bit of head scratching at the min. kawasaki seem to think its due to carb icing but when i try to take it to them to show what i mean it has cleared and runs normal.(kawasaki dealer is about 25 mins away). thanks in advance.
 

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Hi Andy,

I'll start another thread to address your problems.

Graeme
 

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Just did the carb sync this afternoon, took me all of 45 minutes. Didn't remove the tank fully, just shifted it side to side as needed at access the vacuum ports and adjuster screws. Set it to prime for the adjustment, just don't forget to set it back to the normal position when finished.The biggest difference I had was between banks of cylinders. Only about 3 cmHg between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4, but 8 cmHg between the two banks. Here's a couple pages from the manual for reference. *edited*
 

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Pic 1. Another view of the sync adjusting screw. this one is between #3 & #4 carbs. There is one between #1 & #2 and one between #2 & #3 also.
Pic 2. Here is the one between the center carbs (#2 & #3). You'll need a long screwdriver here.
hmm dumb question but which way to turn the screw??clock wise degreased vaccum??or increases?
 

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hmm dumb question but which way to turn the screw??clock wise degreased vaccum??or increases?
Its not a case of increasing or decreasing but of balancing the vacuum.
As you turn the screw the vacuum in one carb will increase as the other decreases.
 

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Its not a case of increasing or decreasing but of balancing the vacuum.
As you turn the screw the vacuum in one carb will increase as the other decreases.
how would you suggest to start if the sync is totally so far off,my brother the auto machanic thought he could sync the carbs using a homemade manometer but he got lost lol seems the levels jump around alot and he cant them accurate,close but thats about it ..working on a 1987 kawai ninja 750.
 

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As for the jumping, I had a sync that used mercury and it still jumped alittle. But it doesn't take very much adjusting to get them lined up. If the screws are turned to much it will flop around pretty good and become frustrating.... a good screw driver, a lite touch and a steady hand are all prerequisites.

Getting carbs 1&2, 3&4 lined up as pairs is critical. Then getting the pairs lined up as a set (of 4) isn't near as hard.
 

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As for the jumping, I had a sync that used mercury and it still jumped alittle. But it doesn't take very much adjusting to get them lined up. If the screws are turned to much it will flop around pretty good and become frustrating.... a good screw driver, a lite touch and a steady hand are all prerequisites.

Getting carbs 1&2, 3&4 lined up as pairs is critical. Then getting the pairs lined up as a set (of 4) isn't near as hard.
graeme.medley stated to start syn with cards 3 and 4 then do 1 and 2 however the hanes manual mentions starting sync with 1 and 2 then 3 and 4 then pairing 1,2,3,4 now as for the jumping around oh hell ya frustrating as ed guy tryng to het and erection lol maybe the tranny fluid im using in the manometer is to light??/i no mercury is wayyy heavier.also at what rpm should you sync at im at 1100 whcih is normal idol but noticed at higher rpm the manometer doesnt jump around as much.
 

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What happens to the syncing if the mixture screws are slightly out?


.
 

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very helpful, this was the article i printed out last week. Bought a carb sync from motion pro at a local bike shop for 100.00

The only thing I have to add is I just used a plastic water bottle (soda bottle) something with a hard plastic cap. Drilled a hole in it smaller then then carbs supply line and just pushed it through the cap. It worked great, didnt leak a drop, took minuets to make, and didn't cost more then a bottle of coke :)
 

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What happens to the syncing if the mixture screws are slightly out?


.
I KNOW!!!! more than a year later... :)
the mixture screws do not affect the vacuum. (not directly anyway) they allow for more (or less) petrol to be siphoned in to the tube just behind the venturi.
if you screw this really out of range (with one screw all the way out) you might generate a " extra push" of that cylinder.
but that is highly unlikely!
 

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sybc and Ktronic

I was wondering... when you adjust the carbs using a carbtune or alike, does anyone here checks the TPS? (ktronic sensor in the main carb-shaft).
because when you adjust the screws between the carbs, you essentialy change the orientation of the shaft.

(from my BMW past i remember there are "dealer" that would up the idle to hide vacuum leaks (beamer also having TPS, could get in to trouble this way)).

anyone?


ok... the title is wrong... how do i amend that?
 

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here some photos of my carbtune job.
i did not remove the tank:
IMG00658-20110927-1842.jpg

another view:
IMG00659-20110927-1842.jpg

this is almost what i got started with:
IMG00656-20110927-1833.jpg
BUT the number one cylinder was WAY lower than what you see here. I almost forgot to take photo's.

this is the result after tuning:
IMG00657-20110927-1836.jpg

all went very well!
for those who will attempt this... BE VERY CAREFULL WITH THOSE pins that connect the side shield to the tank!!!
i did have to increase my idle speed a little bit... but it seems to run real nice now!!
tomorrow i will test it.


almost forgot... this is the tool i used to tune the screws:
IMG00662-20110927-2111.jpg


OK... this morning ... a little OH NOW I KNOW WHY MOMENT.....
yesterday, i decide i would like it more if the vacuum line controlling the pet-**** would be on the outside carb (no. 1) because it would be easier accessibly and easier for visual inspection.
Now i know why the pet-**** vacuum line is connected to the no. 2 carb.... it has a kink in it when it is connected to the no.1 carb blocking it and starving the bike..... DOH!!!!

will reset tonight, now riding on RPI setting.
 

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I have sort of a dumb question. I've built bikes from the frame up, and have owned more than 20 different bikes, yet I have never had to actually sync the carbs. I understand the process, and I'm not worried about it at all, I'm just caught up on one little thing. My gauge synchronizer came with the brass extentions (I guess to replace the carb nipple while syncing) and they appear to not only extend the connection point, but also restrict the vacuum as well, as one end looks sealed minus a pin hole. I would have thought just to pop the vacuum lines onto the carb nipples, but now I think the extenders with the restriction will help keep the gauges from fluttering as much. The kit also came with the inline valves to restrict the flutter as well..

I guess what I'm asking it: does it make a difference whether you connect the vacuum line to the carb nipples as opposed to using the restricted brass extenders that came with the kit? I've just installed an ivans, egr removal, ivans air box mod, jardine rt1 etc, and figured it made sense to make sure they were synced.

One more rando question: STOCK the bikes idle should be about 1100 rpms. But technically once you modify air/fuel/exhaust doesn't it make sense to lower the idle to 900 or so? For a multitude of reasons, I don't think idle needs (or should necessarily) remain stock once these kind of changes are done.
 

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is it a ZR7 ?
if it is you don't need the brass extensions
 
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