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Discussion Starter #1
i'm planning to do jets, shims and the air cleaner soon but without buying a kit. would someone who has the holeshot directions tell us all the different number of shims they specify for diferent altitudes? and does holeshot say exactly how thick the shims are? from those i've asked i've found they're *about* 1mm thick each. anything more specific?

thanks in advance :)

scott
 

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The Commander
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They're supposed to be 1mm, although production tolerances probably allow some variation. I don't have a micrometer, so I didn't measure them. There are no firm guidelines on the shims, and if you ask Dale Walker (and I did....) he'll tell you to start with two and then adjust if necessary, unless you're above 5,000 ft., then start with one. I'm at 1000 ft. in a high-humidity environment, and used two shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i thought there were more firm guidelines regarding altitude. thanks for the info guys :) i'm right at sea level, anyone else care to share thier settings and altitude?

scott
 
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Merry X-Mas all!.....question? Has anyone seen the new Motorcyclist magazine? there is a nice article on how to put shims in the carbs....I was wondering, would putting two washers/shims on each needle without rejetting, richen up the fuel/air mixture? Would I still need to drill or tap out the tamper-proof plugs to turn the screws? or can I just add shims?

Thanks!!

Pete:cool:
 

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MotoMacGyver
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Yeah, I'm curious too. I read the same article, and it was pretty good. They had that mechanical-squid Norem do it, so I figure I should be able to.

But I too am confused about what the shims or turning out the mixture screws is supposed to eliminate, or at least their differences. (And by "shims", I'm assuming plain old washers that you buy at a hardware store; I think that was posted on this forum before).

I thought it was to get rid of the off-idle lag (which, honest to God, to this day, I still CANNOT feel; guess I have to ride a bike that's been worked). It would seem that both of these remedies are for the same thing, no? What exactly is the difference between shimming Vs. turning out the mixture screws???

Emrah
 
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I know what you mean about the lag, what lag? lol....I do hate how lean it is, every time I roll off the gas and back on again, it is way to abrupt....I've never had a bike that did that before....My other bikes were much smoother rolling on and off....I really don't want to do any drilling, but dropping in a couple of shims doesn't seem to difficult....The question is...is it worth the trouble? Or should I have my dealer do the whole shebang (rejetting)?

Pete S.
:D
 

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The plugs are real soft aluminum and the small amount of carb body around them is really thin. I cut mine with a hack saw blade zip tied to a long flat tip screw driver and then hooked the pieces out with an O-ring tool. That's probably frowned upon by most safety and mechanics' guilds, but it worked. Rotary tools are handy, but tend to be on the expensive side. Harbor Freight sells a "cheapo" model (SKU#41695), but I don't know the quality or what rpms it turns at. (They just had them on sale for $10 if that's any indication). I've managed to get through life so far without one, but there are times when one would be nice.
 

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Wants to be "Fade"....
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When I got my holeshot jet kit all the parts looked a little rough. The washers had a small burr on one side completly around it The jets which I thought were going to be made by hloeshot came fron Kehin. They also had a burr ridge in the opening of the jet. I used steelewool and a x-actor knife to smooth them out, and checked everything out with a loup(30x glass) to make sure all was right. All these parts could be bought for less than half the price of the holeshot kit. This mod will make you more pleased with your bike ....O Yeah:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Don't forget the carb plugs......
 

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The Commander
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There seems to be a little confusion on what the different parts of the carburetor do. Here's a good link that explains it: http://www.motocrossasia.com/jetting.htm . In general, opening up the pilot screws richens up the idle-1/3 throttle range, shimming the needles richens up the middle throttle range, and using larger main jets richens up the 3/4 - full throttle range. To aleviate the off-idle hesitation that most ZR-7's seem to suffer from, the pilot circuit needs to be richer, hence the recommendation to turn out the pilot screws. You could also put in larger pilot jets, but I haven't head of anyone trying that yet. If you've got an aftermarket pipe and a K&N, then you need more fuel throughout the range to offset the increased airflow, hence the needle shims and larger jets. Any or all of the above mentioned mods are referred to as "rejetting". None of it is difficult, and I've got a guide posted on ZR-7.com with pictures to walk you through the whole process.
 

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MotoMacGyver
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Thanks Jarel. That's exactly the explanation (of what mod cures what) I was looking for.

Emrah
 
Z

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Thanks Jarel ! I think I will just have to breakdown and cut or grind away and turn those pilot screws....I really didn't want to cut anything, but based on everyones advise, I guess turning the pilot screws is the way to go. My only complaint is that the throttle response is so abrupt when riding two-up.....

By the way, did you get my two pics I emailed you? I might have done it wrong...I'm not a computer guru...LOL

Ride Safe! Pete S.
:D
 

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The Commander
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Yes Pete, I've got a backlog of photos that I need to post. I've been in the middle of a major overhaul of my PC setup at home for the past couple of weeks and haven't had a chance to do any site updates. I'll definitely have them all posted this weekend when I'll finally have some free time again.
 
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