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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I put in a new clutch this evening because the old one was engaging very far out and slipping at around 8k rpm / full throttle. Guess what? The NEW one is doing the exact same thing, in fact it literally feels like I didn't change a thing!! I also put in new EBC heavy duty springs. Also, I found it curious that the old plates looked completely fine :/

I did re-use the steels but they looked 100% fine (not blued). I think I'll order 3 or 4 2.6mm steels (vs the stock 2.3)... anyone else have any input?? I'm in a bad mood already so no stupid questions like, "Did you soak the new plates in oil?" :mad:

And no I'm not using car oil... Motul 300V double ester synthetic
 

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If the bike has a cable clutch, you might have cable stretch. There are usually TWO adjustment points, and a protocol regarding what adjusts first. There could be problems with the release mechanism. (pushrod, mushroom, or bearings. ) If you're hydraulic then be aware you can get crystallized brake fluid blocking small ports in those systems, or adding the wrong fluid can gum the works up. Aftermarket levers can cause problems too, seen that. If you do have to open it up again, check very carefully that all parts are present and correct in your actuation mechanism, measure your steels with calipers and plate glass, and check for a bent pressure plate. Also be aware that sick 50 and various tune up in a can products are stupid and bad for clutches. My 2c
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's a cable clutch and it's adjusted to spec. The problem seems to be stack height related. I'm going to pull all of the plates out and see if the stack height is within spec. It's almost as if the release mechanism isn't allowing the springs to do their job. Engagement is right at the very end of the lever travel...
 

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Before you take it all back apart add some slack to the cable so that it engages about 2/3 of the way out. This may leave the lever sloppy but it will ensure that the cable tension isn't driving the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I gave that a try and it didn't change anything. It's like it engages right at the point where lever pressure/cable tension goes away. Visually, it just looks like the clutch hub simply sticks out too far past the last friction plate so that the spring plate bottoms out on the splines before it can apply sufficient pressure to the stack. I ordered 3 2.6mm steels so HOPEFULLY this will solve the issue. I'm also going to measure the length and spring rate of one of these EBC springs against an OEM because I honestly dont think they're as stiff as the stock ones.
 

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upon assembly the pressure plate needs to be clocked correctly with the clutch hub for everything to seat properly. are you sure you haveit clocked correctly? there should be an arrow cast into the pressure plate and a corresponding arrow on the end of the splined hub. Make sure to verify that these are correctly aligned, as the pressure plate will not fully compress the clutch pack if they aren't.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yea, I tore everything apart today and that's one of the things I verified (pressure plate = spring plate ?). I think the new steels and oil will definitely do the trick (It's only slipping at full throttle / peak torque).

There are so many debates about synthetic oils and clutch slippage, it's not even worth getting into it. The conclusion I've come to is that on a well designed, well maintained clutch, you can run full synthetic no problem. Unfortunately, in my opinion, the 1st gen Z1000 has a sub-par/poorly engineered clutch system and mine has 20k miles on it. I can't fathom what they were thinking at Kawasaki, "We're going to take the ZX-9r engine, bore it out 6-7%, and design a new head and cams for more torque. Then we'll slap the same old clutch in there and put it in a heavier bike!" The only reason I bring this up is because the clutch worked fine until my most recent oil change ( Motul 300v full synthetic). I did some digging and found that plenty of people have had similar issues. The oil might only make a 5-10% difference but that might be beyond the margin of safety for our bikes. I can see why people with brand new ZX10-r's get all high and mighty saying stuff like, "I've been using XX full synthetic oil all along and have never had a problem!" Genuine 1000cc sport bikes don't make any more peak torque than a Z1000 but they have much stronger clutches.

Rant over :/
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
We're back in business!! The extra 0.9mm in stack height made all of difference in the world. It turns out that the EBC plates were actually slightly thinner than my used stock plates so the pressure plate was bottoming out on the clutch hub. Now the clutch bites harder than ever and doesn't drag at all when disengaged.
 

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sweet , now pound the heck out of her :)
 
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