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Discussion Starter #1
oh man...this stinks..

i completed the valve clearance adjust (all within spec, look perfect) and sync'd the carbs (right at 20 on the morgan carbtune) and also removed the cover from the airbox (but left the piece that holds the stock filer in)

now when i get on it, it bogs if i use more than just barely opening the throttle.

the normal off-idle bog is still there, but this is much more...if i roll on the throttle in 1st or 2nd, it slowly accelerates, bogs, and then i get a surge of power going through 4-5k rpm.

i can also get the bog to happen in neutral if i snap open the throttle (again, not the typical off-idle bog)

i did have to redo my cam timing cause my zipties were poorly placed, and the chain slipped. i only removed the exhaust cam since the intake were all in the middle of the spec. when i fixed the timing, the timing marks are all lined up perfectly. intake/exhaust cam marks were dead on with the head while the marks on the crank lined up perfect.

the only thing i wasnt sure of with the whole procedure was the chain guide that sits in between the camshafts. it seems that the chain rides on this guide. its not tight, and i have the correct number of pins between the in/exhaust marks on the cam sprocket (45). it just seems wierd that the cam chain actually runs along the bottom of the guide. i guess if it didn't the engine would make much more noise with that thing flopping around.

other than that everything went fine and didnt seem out of the ordinary. i did also remove the exhaust gas reburn 'air switch' and the hoses. i plugged the hole at the airbox and ran a hose between the holes on the valve cover (like jarel did)

the cam tensioner installed fine. the carm sync went fine. i am at a loss. i double checked all the vacuum hoses and the wires to the distributor.

the bike did sit in the garage for 2 weeks while i did this, since i didnt work on it while i was away for thanksgiving. i dont think it sat long enough to dry the gas out and make stuff in the carbs stick. i put a screw in the fuel line so it wouldnt evaporate from there. could it still have dried out and made things stick? i dont think so. the bike has only 1600 miles, but the bike behaves like there is a problem with fuel/air delivery...

summary of potential problem:
chain guide (?)
cam timing - seems perfect
carb sync - went fine
exhaust gas reburn - looks good
sat too long (?)
electrical - looks fine....

thats all i can think of...any ideas? thanks so much...


Joe
 

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Sounds like the cover for the airbox being removed is the problem. Try putting it back.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i find it hard to believe that this could be the problem, but its making sense now! andy, i think you're on to something...

this is what the air filter page said:

"OPTIONAL: Higher Airflow Applications

If you've installed a high-flow muffler and/or a jet kit, you may want to increase the airflow even more by modifying the snorkel housing.

Option 1: Leave the top half of the snorkel off. This will give you the greatest increase in airflow to the new filter. If you haven't upped the jet size significantly, this may be too much air and the bike will run too lean. You'll know it because you'll have a bogging down sensation when you open the throttle at lower rpms.
"


DANGIT! sheesh. stupid me. it looks like it does make a difference...brb!

Joe
 

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Joe,

Have you reset your idle mixture screws yet? You know from the stock 1.75 turns to 2.5 turns?

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Andy,

Putting the cover on pretty much fixed my bogging. There is still a little bit there, but it could have always been there. Plus, the cold weather and EPA removal could have contributed to the problem.

I haven't adjusted the idle screws. I havent found the hole i need to drill out to adjust them. That is on the list for tomorrow. Will that make a difference also?

Thanks for the advice!

Joe
 

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Glad to hear all is back to the way it was.

The idle screw adjustment will completely eliminate the off idle hesitation.

There is a link on zr-7.com under the maintenance section. It shows how to remove the carbs and how to remove the plugs so you can get to the idle mixture screws (aka pilot screws). http://www.zr-7.com/HoleshotJetKit.htm

Another way to do it without removing the carbs is to use a dremel tool and cut a slot into the carb.
http://www.softcom.net/users/bilvanek/mixture.htm

I removed my carbs. Its not too difficult. It took about an hour. The stock setting is 1.75 turns and adjusting them to 2.5 turns completely removes the off idle hesitation.

Andy
 
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