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Discussion Starter #1
so i know the topic has been covered (i have spent the past 3 days rereading all the treads). but i am seriously interested in uppin the power to my MS and want to get some HARD facts. i have been educating myself on the big bore kits mostly, but wanted to start a thread that gets a clean answer on the topic- without all the fluff.

i live at 9,300 ft and typically cruise above 11,000. what would help my bike breathe??
would nos be a good option? is it safe?
if i do the big bore, what else should i count on doing? porting polishing heads? new cams? complete break down
it seems the more i read the more i need to know! thanks to all you who have helped with my education
 

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Wow, you are up there. At 11,000 you are losing about 1/3 of your hp. A big bore at that altitude would probably add only 6-7 hp. A turbo would make up for the altitude. You will have increased turbo lag, but you will make the hp.

You'd have to adapt a turbo yourself because I don't believe anyone makes one for a MS. Also, adding a turbo is not "plug & play". You probably would have to lower the compression ratio and spend a lot of time on a dyno getting the fuel controller set up. If you want hp, buy a crotch rocket with hp to burn or maybe move to Death Valley.

We may not have many twisty roads here in FL; but we do make HP!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thats what i kinda thought about nitros...
thinkin pretty hard about the big bore kit, porting the intake and new cams. should i send my cams to thunder? what all should i try to do while i have it all apart?
 

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I'd port the heads and throttle body if you're going to have it taken apart anyways. A muzzy 2-1 would give the best gains for the new engine. Beyond that there isn't much than can be done with a reasonable budget.
 

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You can either send your cams to Thunder, or cut out the middle man and send them to Webcams, the company that regrinds them for Thunder. I have the grind# and specs if you need it. You'll need to cut off about a 1/4" of your trigger on the damper to retard the timing from stock, remove the compression release on the front cylinder, replace the hydraulic lash adjuster oil filters, replace the cam plugs and seal them from the outside (just ensures you won't develop the dreaded cam plug leaks, have the heads ported/new valve job, and port the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dream

There's the man I was hopin to hear from! in all my research, I noticed you sold your bike on craig's list. I was nervious you weren't around anymore.
Yeah if you could pm me that webcam grind number that would be sweet. I was thinkin bout sendin out the the port jobs as well, cause I don't know the reputation of the shops round here... any suggestions?
Thanks man. Thatsthe list I was lookin for. I have the 1500, will my stock clutch hold ok? Is there anythin else I should expect with the 1500?

Oh one last thing... I thought you took the compression release off the rear cylinder, not the front?? Can you just verify that for me.
Thanks
 

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There's the man I was hopin to hear from! in all my research, I noticed you sold your bike on craig's list. I was nervious you weren't around anymore.
Yeah if you could pm me that webcam grind number that would be sweet. I was thinkin bout sendin out the the port jobs as well, cause I don't know the reputation of the shops round here... any suggestions?
Thanks man. Thatsthe list I was lookin for. I have the 1500, will my stock clutch hold ok? Is there anythin else I should expect with the 1500?

Oh one last thing... I thought you took the compression release off the rear cylinder, not the front?? Can you just verify that for me.
Thanks
I still have the bike, haven't sold it and it isn't even listed any more. I would suggest having the head work done by Thunder if Trent still works for them. I know a guy that does great port work on anything and would recommend him if Thunder doesn't have their sh!t together now. He does a lot of heads for drag racing and has done some motorcycle heads. He's been doing this for about 13 years and learned from one of the best in the business that works for Jon Kaase (pro stock engine builder).

Your clutch should be fine for a while. I had clutch issues to start with, but after thinking about it I realized that it was the engine assembly lube I used and all was fine after it wore off the clutch. Mine lasted about 4,000 miles before it started slipping and now i've got the gorilla clutch.

If I posted originally that I removed the cam release from the rear cylinder, then that is the one. It's been a while and I can't find the documentation.

The grind number is 736, here is the card:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i REALLY want to do this mod! but i deff don't have the expertise. and most of my interests lie in gettin inside and havin a hand in it. can anyone suggest a way to be involved in this mod if i can't do it on my own?? i want the experience as much as i want the raw power!
you guys are my education thus far, thank you!
 
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