The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed that I alternated a couple of times between a z1000sx (ninja 1000 2012) and the z1000r 2017 front master cylinder. One of them has the black rizoma integrated reservoir and the other is the traditional white pee cup
The reason is i cant seem to get the 1000r master cylinder to bleed properly. Decided to get a rebuild kit from Kawasaki. I can find the equivalent part elsewhere aftermarket but for the small difference in price id prefer the peace of mind.
So today I replaced the rear pads. I completed the front pad change the other day.
So she has fresh pads, discs and fluid all round fresh chain, Fresh fork seals and a major service including air, oil, coolant and plugs incoming.
After chatting with another member about altering the tail on the bike
I want to visualise what some of the more serious mods like a tail chop are going to look like before i do them.
To that end i bit the bullet today and started to learn about “photoshop” or rather not photoshop.
I dont want to pay for photo editing software so i found GIMP which is free and a tutorial online on how to mask out the back ground Of an image.
Google GIMP lol if you want to download and this is the YouTube tutorial i found which goes through step by step how to cut the background out
First pic is the original and the second is the finished product which took roughly 50 mins to do
So now all i have to do is create some different “layers” in GIMP with the various different changes i want to make and away i go.
I also wanted to change to a banjo brake switch. I regret buying a cheap one as it doesnt work. Ive ordered from a local store and ill replace it again when it arrives.
I then moved on to the new gauge. FOund a spot for it right ext to my ignition. Used a spare bracket i found and bolted it under the steering damper bracket. need to adjust my ignition switch mount but no big deal
It’s been a while since I posted last
I finally wired up and mounted the gauge
Settings and wiring guide for a Kawasaki ER650f/n 2010
the settings that you need to make it all work- some may work on other kwakas
Wheel diameter - 1970mm(i may need to tweak this but for a standard 160 tyre its correct)
Sensor points - 12P (these are on front drive sprocket) it has a single pickup but that spikes 12 times every rotation OF THE WHEEL (ROUGHLY 3:1 SPROCKET RATIO) of the back wheel which is 1970mm
Pistons - 2P
Coil setting - Hi
Fuel sender range - 200 ohm but appears to read a little high and I may revert back to 100 ohm
The benefit of the KOSO is that you can have a water temp indicator not just an idiot light. It also has a shift light as well as other features and above all its really tiny.
The downside is that theres nowhere for an abs indicator...
I bought an aluminium piece from @yantosh on the streetfighter forum and I’ll add some LEDS
I really need to say thank you for the information you provide. 🍻
It's been a year now that i decide to build an er6n.
I was looking for a twin, road oriented, easily customised with an hp/kg ratio close to my boxers.
Its' popularity among mini twins TT, the steel frame etc. make me choose a nice '09.
Of course the fact that many people share their modifications, was a helpful factor.
In my case, i keep only the engine and the frame, z1000 triple tee, 636 frond absorbers, rear wheel, radiator,
'12 steel swing arm and i built a new tank, an almost bikini fairing and a tail-seat.
I was very concern about the fact that some engines broke smashing the inner valve of their left cylinder.
Since i was enjoy so much help for the build from people like you, i complete my design easily and focus
on the engine.
I study and discuss with my mechanics the two engine heads that i found in my country
and i clearly see two main reasons for that;
a) head overheating and valve timing too risky for an almost hi compression engine.
So i decide to check valves' timing at 23000km like kawasaki propose in canada and not 42000km.
I study the fuelling map and i see that they use extremely poor mix at low and high rpm and, surprisingly
the 30% of that on the left cylinder!
In case anyone use an open exaust or an open air filter this effect multiplying the poor mixture...
So, i propose the same to all of us that use 38mm throtle bodies.
Check and timing valves at 23000km and correct the mixture with a lot of gas added.
In case someone interested, this engine (same camshafts) can handle over 40mm bodies
like the half of zx1200r that we can find for less than 200 euro.
For those that use 36mm bodies (>2011) things are better, remaping only if they are in hot climates
and if they use open filter or exaust.
Not much of a gas consumption if you corrected cause you driving in less rpm.
Slightly differrent emissions that don't make any harm to the environment and the
only reason of the excistance of limits is the immoral acts of EU politicians against
the manufacturers of the east..
Giving me the ability to control the suspension without try and error procedure is a lot of help.
I'm a proffesional designer and i'm taking care every little detail on my build so, i need a couple of months to present it.
Our bike was a lot of "cleaner" than the euro 3 emissions policy demands back in 2005.
Having a lean (such a gentle term) mixture at low rpm, restricts exaust emissions and at high rpm
restricts the level of sound...
Our ecu can be controled in detail so i will proceed as below;
Remaping fuel, separate for each cylinder (we need two lamda sensor bolts on their exausts for that)
Remaping ignition timing
Remaping the control of the air slides in throtle bodies (please excuse my english..)
New rpm restriction at 11.100 rpm (i'm not sure that i need it but i will do it in case i play with others )
Abolition of fuel cut deceleration for fine throtle respond
Abolition of PAIR valve
Abolition of “closed loop” operation of lamda sensor
New temperature control for ventilation at 97-93 C
I aslo insulate the bottom of the air box with thermal insulation fabric
and create an aluminium "ram air" that will end above radiator. I definitely like velocity stacks inside air box but they are pricey and i try to forget them.
I have a pair on a friends' versys that works fine.
I use an arrow 2-1-2 exaust system cause i like the sound of it.
(same ID and total length as factory)
Our rubber hoses that connect throtle bodies to the head need a bit of triming to match their ID.
Of course you don't need everything that i propose just to avoid head overheating, i present them
in case anyone is interested for a "stage 1" development that cost me a lot of time to know about.