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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's been about 6 months since I had the Apex Clip-Ons installed. I have the 3" Risers, which are perfect for what I need. For those looking for something different than the stock bars, these are a great option.

Why did I switch? The angle of the stock bars irritated my wrists. For short rides, I had no problem. But I don't have many short rides. 5+ hours per ride, and I need to be comfortable. So the stockies had to go.



Pros
* Ease of Install - I didn't install them. I had them put on when my bike was being fixed after a crash. But after taking them off the bike several times to adjust them, I can't imagine it taking more than 90 minutes to do a complete install. And that includes removing the old bars, drilling for the controls, and putting on grips. You don't have to drop or raise the forks because the Apex's fit exactly the stock clip-ons. 50mm is the size of the forks by the way.
* Adjustability - These things are super adjustable. Just about any which way you want to angle them, you can. The video will show you all you need to know about how adjustable they are. You can even adjust them to feel like stock.
* Quality - The fit and finish is top notch. All of the pieces connect and line up with ease. No forcing of anything. Everything feels sturdy and long lasting.
* Cost - They are $219, which to me is a fantastic investment.

Cons
* Bulkiness - I feel that the pieces are just a bit too bulky. Specifically, the clamp that holds the riser sticks out too much. I'm not sure what they could to make it smaller while keeping the adjustability and sturdiness of the parts.
* N1K Design - This isn't a problem with the clip-ons. The N1K's top triple has a bump for the stock clippies. These two humps get in the way BIG TIME and limit the adjustability of the Apex risers. I thought about grinding the humps down, but I got lazy. Now, the fork clamps sit on top of the humps. If those humps weren't there, you would have full range of motion around the fork while having a perfect fit on the fork. The only other problem is with the fairing. You have to adjust the clip-ons to no scratch the fairings. I thought about cutting them, and then I got lazy and adjusted the clip-ons around the problem.
* Making a decision - How is this a con? Don't forget you have to drill holes for the turn signals and kill switch. With just about infinite adjustability means that you have to decide on a setup, which can be daunting after drilling a couple of holes. It took me about 3 weeks to figure out my setup. What a PITA! Luckily, I didn't have to redrill.

Would I recommend the product? Yes. I can stretch out like a super-sport in the twisties and still be relaxed while cruising. My arms no longer feel cramped, and my wrists do not ache after 30 minutes. There are some cons. But for me, I was able to work around them.

Here are some pics when I first had them installed.






In Pic 3, the hump I was talking about is on the right of the fork. It's about 5 mm high. This is an old pic. Now, the clamp sits on top of the hump, which is no longer flush with the top of the fork. This is why I want to shave down the hump.

 

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OK, hold on a minute there. The big question I have is, IS THAT A REAL CRUISE CONTROL???
What brand? Who and how did you install it?
As for the Apex, it appears to be about the same thing I can do with my Murphs bar risers. I am stretched to the stock limits of the clutch and front brake line. So if you are still using the stock clutch and brake line, we are ending up in the same area for the handle bars. And yes I change the angles of the bars with my stock set up. I just ignore using the set bolt. The Apex is proof the stock bars can be rotated just by locking down around the fork tubes at your desired angle. Would you have had enough slack in your cables to use the 4 inch risers?
Thanks for the post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The buttons are for the heated grips. I don't think I could stand cruise control on this bike.

The Apex risers are different from the Murph's risers. You have more adjustment options with the Apex. If you just want taller bars, Murph's is the way to go. I wanted the bars lower, wider, and angled down a bit more, with the option to change them if I go to the track or do some serious touring.

I have plenty of slack on all of the cables. Even with the bars raised up, I still had plenty of slack. But that could have been due to the placement of the bars. I'm not sure about the 4 inchers.
 

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The buttons are for the heated grips. I don't think I could stand cruise control on this bike.

The Apex risers are different from the Murph's risers. You have more adjustment options with the Apex. If you just want taller bars, Murph's is the way to go. I wanted the bars lower, wider, and angled down a bit more, with the option to change them if I go to the track or do some serious touring.

I have plenty of slack on all of the cables. Even with the bars raised up, I still had plenty of slack. But that could have been due to the placement of the bars. I'm not sure about the 4 inchers.
yes, we are trying to do different things with our bars.
Another question: What is the device attached to the top center of you tripple clamp?
 

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yes, we are trying to do different things with our bars.
Another question: What is the device attached to the top center of you tripple clamp?
Its a RAM mount for GPS, Cell Phone, MP3 player or whatever device you need to mount. That particular mount does not fit perfectly on the N1K... I had one myself. I ditched it for the one by Motorcycle Larry. It replaces the triple nut and is a more sturdy mount. The picture shown is the nut on the Concours 14, but its the same part that fits the N1K.
Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive wheel system Engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So with this I would be able to lower the front more..
Yes, you can make the bars lower than stock. Mine are as low as they can go without scratching the fairings.

As I stated above, you have a lot of adjustability with these things. The rub is you are limited by the design of the bike, like fairings, triple, and windscreen getting in the way. You can always get around these limitations with a hacksaw or Dremel. :wink:
 

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Yes, you can make the bars lower than stock. Mine are as low as they can go without scratching the fairings.

As I stated above, you have a lot of adjustability with these things. The rub is you are limited by the design of the bike, like fairings, triple, and windscreen getting in the way. You can always get around these limitations with a hacksaw or Dremel. :wink:
I just think since I lowered rear of bike. Lowering front another 1/4" would be nice
 

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It would be helpful to know by how much you were able to lover the bars from the stock position before running into clearance problems. By the pics, I guess its about 1.5 inches?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It would be helpful to know by how much you were able to lover the bars from the stock position before running into clearance problems. By the pics, I guess its about 1.5 inches?
I hate to say that it depends, but it really does. If I kept the bars in the same general area, I'm guessing lowering them would have been under an inch because of the limitations I mentioned previously. I moved these back about 2 inches, which makes it hard to judge how much lower they are accurately. I'm guessing between 1 and 1.5 inches as they are right now. The bars are also angled down (which is an awesome feature of these things BTW). So it may be a bit more than that if measured at the tip of the bar ends, which reminds me...

Weighted bar ends are a must. You will notice a significant amount of vibration without them. My stock ones were trashed. So I just got some weighted ones on Amazon. Makes a huge difference!
 

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I love it!!!:headbang:
 

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So with this I would be able to lower the front more..
Yes, you can make the bars lower than stock. Mine are as low as they can go without scratching the fairings.

As I stated above, you have a lot of adjustability with these things. The rub is you are limited by the design of the bike, like fairings, triple, and windscreen getting in the way. You can always get around these limitations with a hacksaw or Dremel. :wink:
I'm pretty sure from other posts about being height-challenged, that GQ is talking about moving the triples up higher to lower the front of the bike... not lower the grip position...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I wanted to give a quick update. I switched to the 4 inch risers. I didn't have a choice after I went to steel braided brake lines. I'm kicking myself now. I should have gotten these risers at first. They feel much better and offer more flexibility on this bike. If you decide to go with the Apex, get the 4 inchers.
 

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I have the 3 inch Apex risers and love them. I would have to say that unless you turn the end onto full down the 4 inch would be close to stock? Obviously with the exception of the forward and back adjustments they have.
 

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I have the 3 inch Apex risers and love them. I would have to say that unless you turn the end onto full down the 4 inch would be close to stock? Obviously with the exception of the forward and back adjustments they have.
I have the same bars with the 4 inch risers on my ninja, and I love them. I think they offer the most adjustability of any bars you can by, hence why i bought them.

With these bars and the sargent seat the bike is truely all day comfortable, for me.
 
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