Joined
·
1,066 Posts
http://www.scootworks.com/shop.cgi/page=partsexchange.htm/SID=1238631502.31647
Just to give you an idea of costs.
210mm
141 - 160 of 194 Posts
Just to give you an idea of costs.
Joined
·
16 Posts
2005 Mean Streak 210 mod
Be careful if your Mean Streak is above 2004.
I have a 2005 and widening the rear wheel 3/4 inch on both sides did not work.
I had to send back my wheel to Kosman and redo it.
To work on my 05 I had to widen 1/2 inch on the drive side and 1 inch on the brake side.
Be careful if your Mean Streak is above 2004.
I have a 2005 and widening the rear wheel 3/4 inch on both sides did not work.
I had to send back my wheel to Kosman and redo it.
To work on my 05 I had to widen 1/2 inch on the drive side and 1 inch on the brake side.
Joined
·
239 Posts
can you give alittle more info on why your 05 did not work with 3/4" on each side.What were the issues?
Joined
·
16 Posts
Joined
·
54 Posts
REAL TROUBLE!!!
2006 Mean Streak
210 Mod 3/4" both sides
Everything fits ( dont know about the fender yet as i have not gotten to it, but im sure i can hash that out.)
I'm more concerned with welding in the plate which seems like it can be a tricky task but the guy I'm going to use is very good, in fact thats all he does is weld.
My issue is if i weld in a plate, given whats in the photo, assuming the the drive shaft is removed will not be able to install the drive shaft with the plate welded in.
I then thought about removing the drive shaft and welding around it but that will make a permanent home for the shaft.
This part i do not mind as much but i run into the next problem. With only so much play in the shaft (fore and aft) getting the shaft to meet up with the transmission will be very hard but doable. Once again that is not so much the issue as the locking pin that hold the drive shaft on its gear. The locking pin is actually very simply designed (something small i toke note of) but the pin is spring loaded (not an actual spring but an expanding collar that fits inside of the sprocket on the transmission side (the drive shaft fits over that sprocket). With only so much fore and aft play in the drive shaft (given the fact that i go ahead and weld the drive shaft permanently into the swing arm) there is not enough room between the drive shaft and the swing arm casing to push the pin down to fully install the drive shaft to the transmission sprocket. Assuming you can just with a little force, get the pin to go down on its own when connecting the two i will not be able to get the drive shaft off that sprocket because i will not be able to depress that locking pin. I have thought about leaving that locking pin out but that is throwing red flags all over my mind. Technically with the final drive bolted in place and drive shaft mounted properly to the transmission sprocket (without locking pin installed), and the "axle"/shaft thats hold the swing arm to the bike, there is really no way that i can think of that the drive shaft can come off either sprocket at either end (final drive or transmission).
I can get more pictures of the transmissions sprocket and that whole area if people like but if you have ever removed the drive shaft it self that u should know what im talking about.
One thing i did think about was cutting a small hole or slit into the swing arm to allow a tool (like a scribe) to be inserted through the swing arm down to the drive shaft and push down on the locking pin. This kinda seems like my best option at this point but make this a little harder.
::thinking this post is taking for ever to type, and hoping someone understands::
If i go with the plan of cutting a small hole for the locking pin I'm still never going to be able to get the drive shaft out of the swing arm, I'm ok with that idea but more 50/50 than ok.
The photos:
photo with red and green squares, the item in the red square on the drive shaft it self is actually removable. The part with in the green square is NOT!!
Photo with red, green, yellow, and blue lines. (please forgive poor quality, Iphone in real close with bad lighting) The green line shows a flat spot in the swing arm put there by Kawasaki( a couple inches forward it goes to round. The clearance of the drive shaft at this point is very close (i would say around 1/8" when removing the drive shaft from the swing arm) when the item in the red box passes through. The yellow line is where i have to weld in the cover plate because of clearance for the tire, but as you can see with the blue line the shaft will never come out if a plate is welded in at the yellow line and around the blue line but still leaving enough clearance for the tire and very pretty widened powder coated gloss black wheel.
I could use all the help that i can get right now. I was going to try and finish the bike this weekend (i have a 4 day'er, but i have a lot of other work to do on the bike, i'll post pics when all done). My welder is working tomorrow and Thursday but off Friday like me so time is critical!!
2006 Mean Streak
210 Mod 3/4" both sides
Everything fits ( dont know about the fender yet as i have not gotten to it, but im sure i can hash that out.)
I'm more concerned with welding in the plate which seems like it can be a tricky task but the guy I'm going to use is very good, in fact thats all he does is weld.
My issue is if i weld in a plate, given whats in the photo, assuming the the drive shaft is removed will not be able to install the drive shaft with the plate welded in.
I then thought about removing the drive shaft and welding around it but that will make a permanent home for the shaft.
This part i do not mind as much but i run into the next problem. With only so much play in the shaft (fore and aft) getting the shaft to meet up with the transmission will be very hard but doable. Once again that is not so much the issue as the locking pin that hold the drive shaft on its gear. The locking pin is actually very simply designed (something small i toke note of) but the pin is spring loaded (not an actual spring but an expanding collar that fits inside of the sprocket on the transmission side (the drive shaft fits over that sprocket). With only so much fore and aft play in the drive shaft (given the fact that i go ahead and weld the drive shaft permanently into the swing arm) there is not enough room between the drive shaft and the swing arm casing to push the pin down to fully install the drive shaft to the transmission sprocket. Assuming you can just with a little force, get the pin to go down on its own when connecting the two i will not be able to get the drive shaft off that sprocket because i will not be able to depress that locking pin. I have thought about leaving that locking pin out but that is throwing red flags all over my mind. Technically with the final drive bolted in place and drive shaft mounted properly to the transmission sprocket (without locking pin installed), and the "axle"/shaft thats hold the swing arm to the bike, there is really no way that i can think of that the drive shaft can come off either sprocket at either end (final drive or transmission).
I can get more pictures of the transmissions sprocket and that whole area if people like but if you have ever removed the drive shaft it self that u should know what im talking about.
One thing i did think about was cutting a small hole or slit into the swing arm to allow a tool (like a scribe) to be inserted through the swing arm down to the drive shaft and push down on the locking pin. This kinda seems like my best option at this point but make this a little harder.
::thinking this post is taking for ever to type, and hoping someone understands::
If i go with the plan of cutting a small hole for the locking pin I'm still never going to be able to get the drive shaft out of the swing arm, I'm ok with that idea but more 50/50 than ok.
The photos:
photo with red and green squares, the item in the red square on the drive shaft it self is actually removable. The part with in the green square is NOT!!
Photo with red, green, yellow, and blue lines. (please forgive poor quality, Iphone in real close with bad lighting) The green line shows a flat spot in the swing arm put there by Kawasaki( a couple inches forward it goes to round. The clearance of the drive shaft at this point is very close (i would say around 1/8" when removing the drive shaft from the swing arm) when the item in the red box passes through. The yellow line is where i have to weld in the cover plate because of clearance for the tire, but as you can see with the blue line the shaft will never come out if a plate is welded in at the yellow line and around the blue line but still leaving enough clearance for the tire and very pretty widened powder coated gloss black wheel.
I could use all the help that i can get right now. I was going to try and finish the bike this weekend (i have a 4 day'er, but i have a lot of other work to do on the bike, i'll post pics when all done). My welder is working tomorrow and Thursday but off Friday like me so time is critical!!
has anyone gotten this process down yet? I am not that mechanicaly inclined to cut and weld on my bike ( I fix A/C's not bikes :glassesti ). BUT if some experienced like MM would take over the process I would be glad to send the parts and money. I am referring to the swingarm modification. As I know Kossman does the wheel widening and reassembly would have to be done local. I was considering selling the gurl until I saw Geo's. That is the look I am going for. :notworthy
Joined
·
259 Posts
Anybody know if Metricfats still has these hubs for sale ?
After readings this post... my question is simple
I have an 07 SE Meanie. I want a fat tire, but cutting into the drive shaft, welding, ect... I can not do it. I believe I am running a "stock" tire on my meanie.
From what I have read on here is that a 200 MM tire will fit my stock SE rim (my rim is red so sending it out i dont think it would be worth the hassle).
So will a 200 MM tire fit? If so... What is the best tire that will give me that "fat" tire look?
Please leave a LINK for us lazy people. I hear Metzler is good, but does anyone have other suggestions? Thanks!
PS my meanie that was in a wreck last week... it is getting fixed I AM EXCITED!
I have an 07 SE Meanie. I want a fat tire, but cutting into the drive shaft, welding, ect... I can not do it. I believe I am running a "stock" tire on my meanie.
From what I have read on here is that a 200 MM tire will fit my stock SE rim (my rim is red so sending it out i dont think it would be worth the hassle).
So will a 200 MM tire fit? If so... What is the best tire that will give me that "fat" tire look?
Please leave a LINK for us lazy people. I hear Metzler is good, but does anyone have other suggestions? Thanks!
PS my meanie that was in a wreck last week... it is getting fixed I AM EXCITED!
Joined
·
3,809 Posts
A 200 would technically fit if you installed it deflated and possibly removed the shaft hub to get it on. Manufacturers don't recommend that size tire on the meanie rim because its too narrow and potentially unsafe. Have people done it? Yes. Should they? You can decide. The tire is also so pinched that you'd not see any size difference between it and a 180 or maybe a tad larger combined with worse handling and a smaller contact patch to the pavement. Personally I will not go wider than a 180 on a stock rim.
Joined
·
1,066 Posts
All you need to do is deflate the 200 tire before putting it on, no need to remove the shaft hub. You can't go wrong with the Avon Storm.
There's no point in going bigger than a 170 on the stock rim. The rim just isn't wide enough. All you're doing is ending up with wider "chicken strips". On a bike with limited cornering clearance a tire on the narrow end of spec for the rim width will have you actually using more of the tread area.
Joined
·
30 Posts
I personally put a 180 Avon storm on my bike after I bought it. It had another Avon on it, but this in the same size is actually physically bigger. It has very little room on the driveshaft side, maybe 3/16 of an inch. I am very pleased with how this tire looks and better yet how it handles. Personally, I like to throw my bike into a corner, and I refuse to give that up for the big tire look. Physics are going to work against you with a big tire trying to corner like the bike was meant to. Just my two cents.
. SE 07?
1.) Has anyone tired with modification with a SE meanie?
Im kinda curious if this would work with the red wheel...
After reading everyones post I understand the part of putting a wider tire on a smaller rim... wouldnt look fatter, just chubbier.
Too bad MeanOne and GEO are not around....
2.) Has anyone seen Phatfire6's bike? I like his fender and set up... how did he raise his shocks to make the bike look raised up?
1.) Has anyone tired with modification with a SE meanie?
Im kinda curious if this would work with the red wheel...
After reading everyones post I understand the part of putting a wider tire on a smaller rim... wouldnt look fatter, just chubbier.
Too bad MeanOne and GEO are not around....
2.) Has anyone seen Phatfire6's bike? I like his fender and set up... how did he raise his shocks to make the bike look raised up?
Drive shaft cut & Rim adjustments...
I am looking to do this cutting and welding myself....
I have an 07 SE meanie... will these cut measurements work for my bike?
Just curious?
Secondly, I am bout to sent my wheel to Kosman... What do I need my widen measurements to be?
-- 3/4" on each side (driveshaft and Brake side)
or
-- 3/4" on Drive shaft side & 1"1/4
Thanks!
I am looking to do this cutting and welding myself....
I have an 07 SE meanie... will these cut measurements work for my bike?
Just curious?
Secondly, I am bout to sent my wheel to Kosman... What do I need my widen measurements to be?
-- 3/4" on each side (driveshaft and Brake side)
or
-- 3/4" on Drive shaft side & 1"1/4
Thanks!
Joined
·
165 Posts
141 - 160 of 194 Posts
