[rcannon409]

Nice find. I wish ours had that "kit" option.

I left 92200 and 92145 out of my slipper. I mean, these parts are probably not the "same" for the h2, but in comparison. Also, no "spring steel" on the h2 kit.

I wonder if we should have left them in, and what do they do? On the oem clutch, these were within the first two plates set into the basket.

I had these from my ninja 1000, oem clutch, and could have....But, the versys kit does not use them????

2015 Kawasaki VERSYS 1000 (KLZ1000BFF) Clutch | Flemington Kawasaki

 

[Chrispy]

I left 92200 and 92145 out of my slipper. I mean, these parts are probably not the "same" for the h2, but in comparison. Also, no "spring steel" on the h2 kit.

I wonder if we should have left them in, and what do they do? On the oem clutch, these were within the first two plates set into the basket.

I had these from my ninja 1000, oem clutch, and could have....But, the versys kit does not use them????

2015 Kawasaki VERSYS 1000 (KLZ1000BFF) Clutch | Flemington Kawasaki

I really don't know but I would guess any time there is a "spring" in the clutch pack, it's there to either help with engagement or disengagement. In this case, I would guess it somehow helps disengagement ?

 

[mrsand]

I for one really appreciate the discussion on the clutch system. I am a terrible machanic....i mean i am not a mechanic...i am a dis-assembler. It takes me a lot of time to adjust my clutch cable after i run out of adjustment up top...i just hate taking the fairings apart to get to the bottom cable adjuster. My 2014 ninja has about 9800 miles on it now. I just bought a spare set of angel gt tires so i will keep the bike for a few more thousand miles. I like the slipper idea and i almost think i can replace the system using the great information you fellows share. I would need a guardian angel to watch me though as i can FUAWD when it comes to repairs. Thanks

 

[rpete]

I've just ordered all of the parts. Came out to $338, so not terrible.

 

[rcannon409]

I've just ordered all of the parts. Came out to $338, so not terrible.

Thats a good price. Did you go online, or local?

Not that long ago, it was easy to find online discounts of 30%. Not so much, now.

 

[rpete]

Found an ebay seller offering a bunch of the 2.0 mm clutch plates, p/n 13089-1073, for $20.

For everything else, I ended up placing my first order with powersportswarehouse.com, hopefully there won't be any complications.

13087-0566, hub-clutch - 155.90
13187-0023, plate-clutch operating - 81.35
13089-0024, plate-clutch, cpg comp - 9.44
92145-1630, spring (3x) - 13.20
16007-0711, seat-spring (3x) - 7.32
13272-1413, plate - 8.14
92154-1116, bolt, flanged, 6x35 (3x) - 17.10 (this is ridiculous, I need to see these bolts!)
13089-0023, plate-clutch, t=2.3 - 9.44
11061-0404, gasket, clutch cover - 16.74

And of course I've conveniently omitted the cost of the new tools I've had to acquire.

 

[rpete]

About those bolts, is there any reason that these wouldn't do the job?

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=17548

 

[rcannon409]

Serious? You had a hard time with the bolts, too?

Pete, those will be fine . You need full thread, as those are. I'm not 100% sold on stainless into aluminum, but its probably fine.

I found some grade 10.9, locally, at a bolt and nut supply place. Cost was zero and the guy did not want to do a ticket for 44 cents, total. As far as fanged, thats not necessary, either. A regular, full threaded m6x35mm and flat washers will do the same thing.

I believe the torque figure, on these, is 7--8lb/ft, so strength is not a big deal.

If you spend the dollars with Kawasaki, they look just like this.

RFX Flange Head Bolt Pack 25pcs M6 x 35mm Motocross Trials Enduro | eBay

Full thread, and the long length is important. You'll never believe how far the clutch springs compress. I'll bet a person puts a full inch of compression on them , during assembly.

 

[rpete]

Serious? You had a hard time with the bolts, too?

The realization that I stupidly wasted $17.10 on those three bolts will forever gnaw at my psyche. Life in a nutshell. :wedgie:

 

[kobi411]

rpete you got them cheaper.... i am planning on this soon..

a free shipping site but has bit more price on the parts..

here's the 2014 z1000 clutch 2014 Kawasaki Z1000 ABS (ZR1000GEFA) Clutch | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse
here's the 2015 versys clutch 2015 Kawasaki VERSYS 1000 (KLZ1000BFF) Clutch | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse
heres the 2016 z1000 clutch 2016 Kawasaki Z1000 ABS (ZR1000GGF) Clutch(GGF) | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

 

[rcannon409]

Well, if it makes you feel better, Roland wasted the 17.10 and Jay did, as well.

So, its not 17.10 wasted, its really 51.30.

No one knew until they arrived, and none of us ever really compared notes.

Do you suppose mark up on the rest of the items is this high?

Seriously, the saving money in all of this was dealt with when Jay too the risk, and ordered parts and when we found a way to re-use not quite idea clutch plates by mixing in the 2.0 thick plates.

Barnett sells springs, and 2.0 plates, so there would be more savings going there.

The bolts were a tough one. The only way to save much is to find them locally. If you have to mail order, shipping will eat up a bunch of the 17.10.

If you use stainless bolts, and even 1 of the three galls during install, it will wipe out the 155.00 clutch hub.

When it is time to build your clutch pack, odds are you will have a choice. You'll take your plates, wipe them off, and start stacking in the proper order. At some point you'll have them all stacked together, and be ready to take a measurement.

There is a range. Based on what I've seen in their race manuals, the slipper will apply, easier, or with less force, if you are on the lower end of the measurement. The spec is The spec is 45.6-46.4mm

I forget what mine is , exactly. Kawasaki specified you are supposed to have a back up, complete clutch to use in obtaining this measurement. You assemble, on your bench, and measure Yea, I'll get right on that.

I ended up at the upper limit, and my slipper activates when I'd call "just right". Odds are, if I had really squished it with Kawasakis method, I'd be right in the middle.

 

[Chrispy]

Just a brief update..........still totally digging the new clutch. As perfect as I could hope it could be. Love the smooth / light lever. Zero issues on hard launches. Haven't really tried to get the slipper to kick in yet as the roads are still pretty dirty around here but I'll be in Georgia in a couple weeks where we can give it a real test.

I think this was my favorite N1K mod so far.................

 

[rpete]

I have all of the parts and tools now, but am still a bit nervous since I've never dug into the clutch like this. I think I'll tackle it tomorrow.

 

[rcannon409]

Pete, I'll check in and see how you do. Really, you wont have any trouble.

 

[ZedZedR600]

I am a big believer in using anti-seize lubricant, usually used for steel spark plug threads in an aluminum head.

It helps prevent problems for brake and carb bolt threads.

It might also help for clutch threads, but if you decide to use it, only use a tiny amount to keep it off the clutch plate surfaces.

 

[rcannon409]

I dont know where you would use the anti-sieze in this project....Dont get me wrong, I believe in it as well, but theres no need for it here. Its a great idea, and a good practice to live by, just not so much for this .

I take that back....I like using it on the case bolts, themselves. If you use just a tiny drop, you can come back ten years later and remove them.

A common issue , when working with clutches, are those who use torque wrenches. Torque wrenches , and torque specs, are listed for new, dry fasteners.

We dont have that here. We have used fasteners that are oil soaked. When you tighten your three new springs, bottom those bolts, then just a tiny amount more.

 

[rpete]

Predictably, I've screwed this up somehow.

Edit - deleted as the rest of this post was noise.

 

[rcannon409]

Pete, as the cover goes on, you need to make a deliberate motion to get the actuator to hook on to the center rod.

What does the arm look like outside your bike?

Also, did you start the bike?

The clutch pack does not separate very far, really. I done see not oiling the steels as being a huge deal.

If your trying this with the rear wheel off the ground, it will spin with the clutch disengaged. Especially when cold. There is enough residual drag to move a wheel thats not touching the ground.

 

[rpete]

deleted - this post was noise.

 

[rpete]

deleted - this post was noise.