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I'm very appreciative of the effort that Jay and Rich have put into this modification. Still....are there any negatives? At all? None whatsoever? I want to do this, but lately I've been trying to plow through the last two years of my hoarded stack of Rider/Motorcyclist/Motorcycle Consumer News issues, and rarely has there been an unequivocal endorsement of a slipper clutch. There's always something that gives the reviewer pause.
This is a much better clutch, that happens to include a slipper
 
It's probably just a failure of recollection on my part. Symptoms such as light pull combined with abrupt engagement making modulation difficult at low speeds, trouble getting a clean hard launch, etc. I think these traits are probably better attributed to the assist function when the bikes in question are equipped with assist slipper clutches. And then there was the criticism of Ducati's APTC clouding my memory, whose problems don't really relate to the slipper function at all.

At any rate, I've only heard good things about this mod so far.
 
Symptoms such as light pull combined with abrupt engagement making modulation difficult at low speeds, trouble getting a clean hard launch, etc.

Having zero experience (yet) with any slipper clutch, I think part of the problem is the there are so many slipper clutch designs out there that some are good, some are not so good, so there are a lot of biased opinions out there. In a couple weeks , I'll know more but I think the "assist" part of the FCC clutch will be better for precise modulation on hard starts as opposed to running heavy duty clutch springs that make it hard to feel what the clutch is doing.

I can say from just moving the bike around in the garage that,if anything, my clutch engagement is much smoother now than before but I think that's due to the better oiling and the hub coating.
 
This clutch is how they will all look in five years.

It eliminates parts, for a lower production cost

It works better, smoother, and more exact

It does not require stiff springs to work.
 
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This clutch is how they will all look in five years.

It eliminates parts, for a lower production cost

It works better, smoother, and more exact

It does not require stiff springs to work.

I agree on all points. I also have a suspicion that overall clutch life may increase too as the assist function should reduce / eliminate clutch slippage that usually occurs when clutch springs in a normal clutch get a little soft and allow the clutch to slip / glaze. It's rare to see an actual worn out clutch, usually people end up replacing the clutch when it start slipping yet it's only half worn.
 
Chrispy, agree completly.

When I was setting up my new clutch, I wanted to have plenty of plates to choose from. Depending on which model, and year, Kawasaki (fcc) uses this plate diameter on several different bikes. The thickness is different, sometimes,, so by doing some creative shopping, I was able to get a handful of 2.0. 2.3 and 2.6 plates. Not knowing how important stack height might be, this made sure I could set it to the spec I wanted.

Obviously, ordering the plates from Kawi would work, but they are 17.00 each, on average. Ordering 20 plates would be expensive.

I went used, on ebay. The one zx6 clutch I bought had 30,000 miles on it. The plates from it look and measure as new.

If a clutch is working correctly, and not abused, a set of plates can last almost forever.

As far an engagement goes, Pete, I cant explain that one. I never felt it with mine. I saw sport rider magazine mention it, but its just not there with mine.
 
The height of all the clutch plates you use, or thickness , should end up between 45.6-46.4mm Ordering 2 new Kawasaki clutch plates, part number 13089-1073 will make this easy. If you try to use all your old plates, this will be too thick, or too tall. Doing it this way, you may have one new 2.0 thick plate left over, but the plates are cheap.
Previously it was mentioned that replacing three of the stock 2.6 mm plates with new 2.0 mm plates would result in the desired stack height. But it turns out that replacing only two of them will suffice instead? Just want to make sure I am understanding this correctly while putting together the parts order.
 
Go with whatever I said before.

Keep in mind, I've seen one bike. My own. I have no idea what some other clutch will measure to.. Thicker? Thinner? Who knows. I suspect all will be in range, but???

So, get three and that will make sure you are able to built to be within that range. I believe spending, and even wasting 11 bucks is better than having to order one 2.0 clutch plate, so why not get three?

I ordered the used zx6 clutch packs, so I had all kinds of plates to stack and work with.

I could build this clutch to have a narrow, abrupt range of engagement by building the clutch pack too thick, or thin. I dont think its so much about slipping.

The range that our actuator works in is quite small once all the parts go together. A thick clutch pack will make it so the actuator barely does anything to separate the plates. I have a feelign that bike sport rider tested may have had that going on.
 
Looks like I'll need to pick up an electric impact wrench for this project. How are others putting the nut back on with the proper torque (keeping in mind that I don't posess Chrispy's tool-making prowess)? Harbor Freight sells a set of torque-limiting extensions, would this be an acceptable way to go?

10 Piece 1/2 In. Torque Limiting Extension Bar Set
 
Looks like I'll need to pick up an electric impact wrench for this project. How are others putting the nut back on with the proper torque (keeping in mind that I don't posess Chrispy's tool-making prowess)? Harbor Freight sells a set of torque-limiting extensions, would this be an acceptable way to go?

10 Piece 1/2 In. Torque Limiting Extension Bar Set
I'm just doing the clutch modification (not slipper swap) but I purchased an EBC CT004 tool for torquing to spec. It might be fine, but I'd be very leery relying on a slip regulator (especially from HF) to properly torque.
 
You dont need the tool. In fact, I prefer not to use one. My way spreads the load all over the entire hub.

Heres all you do. Make your ckutch pack, and set it in place. Use your finger and apply pressure to the plates. Tighten nut.

The plates are designed to grab each other, and they will with finger pressure.

The tool wont hurt, but its for sure optional.

By the way, f my typing skills. Sorry for misspellings, etc. Im horrible at typing.
 
You dont need the tool. In fact, I prefer not to use one. My way spreads the load all over the entire hub.

Heres all you do. Make your ckutch pack, and set it in place. Use your finger and apply pressure to the plates. Tighten nut.

The plates are designed to grab each other, and they will with finger pressure.

The tool wont hurt, but its for sure optional.

By the way, f my typing skills. Sorry for misspellings, etc. Im horrible at typing.
While that trick worked great with the electric impact to remove the nut, I couldn't get it to hold while I torqued the nut. Maybe an extra set of hands / fingers might of been able to apply enough pressure though......
 
I had no trouble holding mine. However, I built my plates dry. The new clutch does not need the plates to be doused in oil, so mine held just fine

If yours had oil on them, maybe that was the difference?

I've never used one of those tools that did not leave little notches on the basket, so I'll do anything to avoid using a holder.
 
I also saw that tool is 15.00. Thats not much,and its probably worth having at that price.

I worked on my dirt bike clutch often. For that bike, I made my own tool out of four old clutch plates.

I indexed them properly, then screwed them together with self tapping screws. Instant clutch tool!
 
Just got in my first ride of the season with the new clutch. In short, I'm very happy. Clutch engages very smoothly. Upshifts improved a bit but the downshifts are waaaaayyyy better. Less shift lever effort and feels much more precise. The lighter effort at the clutch lever makes modulating the clutch when accelerating hard from a stop much easier. Never got a chance to test out the slipper function yet.

Except for the cost factor, it's a win-win mod all around.
 
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