I've tried odd combos, up to an including a 16/39. Very similar to your 17/41.

Sure. Its fine. Whatever, really. It does slightly take away the snap, and mentally maybe feels better at 70.

Still, the bike likes to rev, and 6th gear still feels like a concours 14's 4th. The gear ratios are just too close together. We need the versys 1000 transmission to solve the issue.

I'm going back to stock and not be bother ed with reving the bike. As its broken in, its plenty smooth.

 

Smoothness isn't so much the issue. 1st gear with current setup is good for nothing but automatic power wheelies at anything more than 1/2 throttle..

 

correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the stock setup for 2014 Z1000 is 15/43?

 

yes it is.. 15/43

 

rub it in nate rub it in... lol we at higher elevation dont have that luxury

 

Luxury? It's friggin' annoying most of the time. I'd like 1st and 2nd gear to be a bit more usable

 

I'd be interested to try a 16t on the front also. Constantly going for 7th gear on the highway, and with the reflash and full exhaust, the motor certainly has enough nut to turn a little taller gearing. Even on tight roads I rarely find myself using less than 4th. As said, 1st gear is virtually useless, the bike just wheelies so aggressively now. Anyone know if there's enough range in the adjusters to fit an extra tooth on the stock chain, or would you have to do a +1 front with a -1 back?

The nice thing is on the gen4's is the speedometer uses the rear wheel's ABS sensor, not the countershaft. So you can play with the gearing and it won't mess up the speedo.

 

The nice thing is on the gen4's is the speedometer uses the rear wheel's ABS sensor, not the countershaft. So you can play with the gearing and it won't mess up the speedo.

Damn so going up a tooth in the front doesn't actually correct the accuracy of the speedometer like it did on the previous generation? A speedo healer would be necessary or how would that work if you want a more accurate speed readout.

The previous generation was down to a science with the 55 rear tire and several gearing combinations

 

wow, thanks for the info... so about changing to 190/55 tires? effects?

 

I just went with a 16/39 set up before a long ride, it made and my fuel economy improved and RPM's dropped by 500 RPM's in all gears. It doesn't seem as willing to pick up the front end end up off the ground from a stop but that is certainly okay with me since I do a lot of commuting then again I'm not looking for 7th gear.

 

What are you averaging now with this gear change with your mpg? The stock range was already up near 200 miles with a cruise and all 5 gallons

 

Going to a higher profile tire would still "throw off" the dash, though since the factory speedo seems to read 6-7% fast, it will actually in effect reduce the error.

I know the +1 front commonly cancels out, or nearly so, the factory error since it's usually about a 6% difference in gear ratio. Unfortunately, that won't work on the gen4's.

A speedo-healer is the only way to correct the factory readout. Even then, if your speed display is accurate, your mileage display will be low. I've noticed that factory odometers seem to be bang on accurate when compared to a measured mile on the highway, despite the speed being higher than actual. The odometer and speedometer are not calibrated the same. On my 2003 Z, I put a speedohealer on and set it so the dash was accurate against a GPS. (about -7% to correct factory error, stock tire size and gears). Tried the measured mile again and I passed the marker shortly after it ticked over 0.9 miles. On rides where we all reset the trip meter at the same point, at the end of the day mine would always be about 5% lower than everyone else's. Not that I really cared, but something to realize.

 

hey nate add. info..

here's a 4th gen revs and speed that i have observed


bike vs gps

100 km/hr - 94 km/hr
110 km/hr - 103 km/hr
120 km/hr - 113 km/hr
130 km/hr - 122 km/hr

so its 6-6.7% as what it has always been said with speedo healer


rpms..

i usually observed 5000 rpm or little over at 120 km/hr
with wife taking a pic at the back on a remote flat road below
5500 rpm at 120

 

I found a pretty detailed gearing calculator for anybody that wants to run the numbers.

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

I'm interested in moving to a 16t as well, do I need to reduce the rear with my existing chain or will the 43t still fit?

Thanks

 

+1 T either front or back not both.. needs new chain for that.. why you goingh up tooth at the back.. ?
ninja or Z?

 

2015 z1000.

I'm going to +1 on the front to a 16t, and was thinking of -1 or -2 on the rear to get a little more highway out of it. Wasn't sure if just +1 on the front would snug the chain up to much, and therefore require a smaller rear to give some more slack.

 

ah no.. i tried +1 rear on my 2010 with 16t front, it wont fit (stock 15/42) only 16/42 will fit...
so for 2014+ z1000 (stock 15/43) you will need 42 rear sprocket because they have same links; 112 like 2010-2013
and 16/43 did not fit on the 2010-2013 z
so you will need new rear sprocket... 16/42 or 16/41 for you
hope this helps..

 

Gonna go with 16T fron sprocket. The kit I'm ordering comes with front + rear sprockets and a new chain.

 

Ordered just a 16t sprocket. The JT Sprocket part # is 1537.16, they run about $22.

With 8k miles my chain still looks like new and has barely stretched whatsoever (I've adjusted it maybe twice since new), so didn't really feel a need to replace it. I'm sure there's one tooth's worth of slack in the adjusters.

 

The Supersprox kit comes with an x-ring chain, which is supposed to have 50% less friction than a typical o-ring chain. That's more power to the rear wheel.

 

nate let me know and try 16t first with stock rear sprocket and chain; if it fits with 16/43 just to confirm that the links are same with the 2010..

 

Do this, call sprocketcenter.com the guy there set me up with the perfect set up and arrived in the mail 2 days later. Installed 16T frt and 39T rear and dropped 500 RPM's in all gears. Sprocket Center made it a no brainer and super easy, a guy at Revzilla put me in contact with them.

 

+1 Sprocket Center Sprocket Center. Several time customer, never disappointed.

 

The 16t front installed without any issue on the stock chain on a '15 z1000. The adjusters are now maybe 2 notches closer in than before. There was no need to break the chain or remove the back wheel. Getting the countershaft nut loose was a pain. Had to put a bar between the rear wheel spokes to jam it against the swingarm to keep it from turning, and even then needed a large breaker bar and putting all my weight on it, and bouncing a little before it finally cracked loose. A 1/2" drive air impact gun didn't touch it.

I like the difference. 5th gear now feels like 6th used to. RPM on the highway has dropped roughly 500rpm or so. Where the first led "bar" on the tach used to light at 55 in sixth, now it's at 59. I didn't notice any lack of oomph or pull throughout the gears. Will still readily wheelie through first and second and a little in third. A nice side effect is before the engine got "buzzy" at around 80mph on the highway, enough to blur the mirrors and put an irritating buzz in the bars- the gearing change has shifted this RPM closer to 90, just enough that it's outside normal cruise speed.

 

According to gearing commander one up in the front is good for an extra 10mph top speed about 172...anf that's before a 55 rear, good for another 5mph, and Ivan's flash another 10mph potential.

Question have you tried the top end out and is everything else stock on your bike?

 

oh nice so 16/43 does fit, so the links are not 112 then like the 2010..
because i tried that on a 2010 and only plus 1 either front or back fits (stock 15/42 112 links)
for some reason gearing commander listed it as same chain links as the 2010

 

Cool, can't wait to try mine out. Gotta wait for my ecu to get back from Ivan.

 

With stock Gearing, before reflash the max I ever saw was 153 on the dash, which felt to me was riding the soft limiter and both red bars were lit. After the flash, stock gears, I saw 156, and that was up a slight grade, again both red bars lit. I haven't had a chance to try for the top end yet with the +1.

Even with the extra power of a full exhaust and reflash, I doubt the unfaired Z would crack into the 170s, the aerodynamics just aren't there. Maybe on the Ninja, but I still wouldn't count on it. Keep in mind the dash reads about 6 percent fast, so 150 indicated is about 141 actual. To hit 170 proper you'd need to have the dash showing at least 180

 

Right I gotta remember the Z is geared different and a different animal, it's gotta be uncomfortable going that fast with 140 real mph hitting you right in the chest. I'd likely be satisfied with a real 160 (indicated ~170) after 55 rear, +1, and an extended redline 12,000 like some folks requested on the 3rd Gen.

 

Sorry, I have only just found this and I am probably too late to help. I tour a lot and yes, stock 15/41 is too low. Put 38 on rear, needed longer chain but I now have much more comfortable cruising (5,000 = 82) and not much noticeable diff. in acceleration. Slight but it was too fierce anyway and have seen just shy of 170. Hope this helps, cheers ! !