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Discussion Starter #1
just did this tonight and made videos!

tips on this that i figured out after doing it
1. you don't have to remove the black plastic on the left side under the handlebar, you can access the 3 screws holding in the cluster from the back of it
2. be careful pressing hard on plastic (obviously)
3. as always when working on motorcycle body work take care to not overtighten the wellnuts - those rubber things with threaded inserts inside of them that "roll up" when you tighten the fastener into them. these can break and while you can glue them for a quick fix are usually only found at the dealership

a general rule of mine is to hold the allen key by the short side and tighten it only as tight as you can with your fingers. don't switch to the side of the key that will give you the extra leverage since that's how you will break a wellnut.


add on (part 2): 2013 Ninja 650 Instrument Cluster Rattle Fix Part 2 of 3 - YouTube

second add on (part 3): 2013 Ninja 650 Instrument Cluster Rattle Fix Part 3 of 3 - YouTube
 

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Great video man, well done, and dare I say....even a bit professional. I might actually do that to mine sometime in the near future as I try to track down some rattles that are annoying the hell out of me. Cheers.
 

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In regards to the well nuts... if you order a bulk back of like 20 on eBay you don't need to worry about wrecking them as much.
 

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I actually bought a sports bike 'windshield kit' from the dealer for around 10 dollars and got 6 or so along with a whole bunch of the metric button head bolts and nylon washers that are used on the bike. And unL33T, I need to see a picture of this cup holder....I want one.
 

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Just something basic to let me grab a coffee 5 min from work and bring it in. Now that we have a coffee machine I stopped using it. After a few years the bolts holding the pipe clamp worked loose so I just took it off. I put it on the passenger peg so that if it spills it just goes on the ground. Just as a test, after an hour long ride I had lost about 1/4" of liquid. The coffee was obviously cold but I gave it to my Dad and he warmed it up and drank it anyway, heh.

 

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Not a bad idea. Myself, I've successfully wedged a Starbucks (or wherever) cardboard drink carrying thing into the bottom of my backpack and transported drinks 15+ miles with minimum spillage. I've also just used one of those non-leaking vacuum cups and bungee'd it to the back seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
this is totally off topic as well but the legit thermos brand SS thermos is 100% leak proof and i make coffee in it then add the sugar etc. and close it up. you can shake it up like a paint can with no leaks. works best with a backpack but its a little more reliable than a stock coffee shop styrofoam.
 

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thanks very much for posting this video Captlombardi! I just bought a brand new 2013 650 ABS on Saturday, also pearl white in color by the way! I'm wondering if you had the exact same issue with your bike...

After much research and careful thought, I traded in my 2008 Ninja 500, and pulled the trigger on a brand new 2013 Ninja 650 ABS which I picked up on Saturday. I did approx 200KM's of riding over the weekend, and to my surprise and dismay, the bike has a TERRIBLE, LOUD, buzzing/vibration noise coming from somewhere within the front fairing as soon as you hit the range between 4K -5K on the tachcometer. It's like clockwork. It happens every single time, and the buzzing/vibration sound is so loud and pronounced that it completely drowns out the sound of both the engine and exhaust. Below 4K and above 5K, everything is fine. It's very hard to isolate where the buzz is coming from. With the bike parked in neutral, you cannot re-create the buzz. It only happens when the bike is in gear. And the worst thing is that this buzzing is right in the sweetspot of where I normally upshift (around 4500rpm), so it makes shifting a horrible experience. It was actually embarrasing to ride this weekend, as I was getting looks from random pedestrians, and other riders over this incredibly loud buzzing noise as soon as my bike came into the 4-5K rpm range.

I'm really hoping this is a dealer assembly issue, since the bike came brand new, still in the shipping crate, and that there is a clear cut fix for this problem. I can't believe that Kawasaki would engineer or stand behind any product that exhibits this kind of intense of buzzing noise. Especially on a brand new bike! I'm already missing my 2008 Ninja 500! It never exhibited anything remotely like this. I know that a little bit of fairing buzz vibration is always normal, but on this brand new 2013 650, it is so LOUD and intense that this just can't be right!

I'm wondering if there are other 2012/13 Ninja 650 riders who have experienced or gone through a similar issue with their new bike?

Also, any recomendations on how I should aproach the dealership in getting them to solve this?
 

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Hi there,

Great video and write up, thanks! I have just tried this but it did not solve the vibration.

I think the main problem here is because I cannot tighten the screws that hold the display unit to the body tight enough.

The screws don't seem to be screwing in with ease, I cannot get the screw all the way in.

Did you have any issues with this? I may just need to add another washer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@Audio - the problem you are describing is why i undertook what i did in the video. it fixed all my problems with the monster vibration right in that rpm range. i found it very embarassing and annoying as well. note that i tried it once with two strips of 1/4" deadening and it wasn't enough, but i went back in and used 3/8" total in three places instead of 2.

@nickchooak - the screws are fed through those thick rubber washer things before they go into the instrument cluster. you can compress them for additional screw travel by pushing on the cluster like i describe in the video just be careful not to break anything as it is all made of plastic. when you reinstall the cluster put in the top two screws first and then the bottom but don't tighten any of them hardly at all. then push the cluster down pretty hard and tighten all 3 equally. it felt to me like the bottom one had more of a built-in "stop" no matter how hard i pushed the cluster in after a while, but i was able to tighten the top two fasteners quite a bit. the cluster will still move when you are done since it is rubber mounted but it should be held tight against the deadening you added and that will stop the vibrations.
 

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Since this thread popped back up I wanted to say thanks again for the video, it gave me the motivation to fix my instrument gauge rattle last week. I used weather stripping, worked brilliantly.
 

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Thanks captlombardi, I think there is something up with my rubber washers as it is almost impossible to screw in fully and they seem to be screwing in at an angle. I'll try and find a way around this. Although, I did take the baffle out of my Arrow exhaust which seems to have resolved the vibration issue :)
 

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I don't have a 2012+ but my 2009 was starting to get really noisy with the vibes. Two days ago I pulled my front fairings off and completely disassembled them to all individual pieces and added either foam or neoprene rubber edging on any plastic part that touches another. We'll see if it's all eliminated when I get the time and the weather is nice enough to go put it all back together. I can't imagine how it could vibrate now.
 

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Let us know :)

I don't have a 2012+ but my 2009 was starting to get really noisy with the vibes. Two days ago I pulled my front fairings off and completely disassembled them to all individual pieces and added either foam or neoprene rubber edging on any plastic part that touches another. We'll see if it's all eliminated when I get the time and the weather is nice enough to go put it all back together. I can't imagine how it could vibrate now.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@Psy - yes it totally fixed the problem! i would recommend everyone do it since its really easy.
 

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tried this on the weekend... no good still rattling... i also tried to add foam to other random areas to test the rattling... still nothing....any other ideas.. Btw my bike is brand new and has only 250km on it..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
@xtothax - 2012/2013? i isolated the cluster as the major rattle culprit because around 4000 rpm i could hold it with my left hand and the rattling stopped. i still have a fairing rattle from somewhere around 2200 rpm but with my exhast i (and i assume everyone around me) can't hear it. are you sure you used the right thickness of foam and tightened the fasteners enough?
 

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@xtothax - 2012/2013? i isolated the cluster as the major rattle culprit because around 4000 rpm i could hold it with my left hand and the rattling stopped. i still have a fairing rattle from somewhere around 2200 rpm but with my exhast i (and i assume everyone around me) can't hear it. are you sure you used the right thickness of foam and tightened the fasteners enough?
Just had the first service on the bike... Kawasaki fixed the problem it was the under the plastic cover on the fuel cap... all good now !!!!
 
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