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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Do this at your own risk, I take no responsibility for what happens to you, thats YOURjob.

First ... why would you want to adapt a different shock? The standard one is less than rubbish.
The 2010 R1 shock is the same length as an ER650. It has low speed compression and high speed compression and rebound adjustment as well as hydraulic preload you can adjust with a screwdriver. This is a common mod on Versys 650’s but on ninjas and er6’s not so much. Its about $250 AU worth of gear on eBay. To get something to perform similar to this you have to pay Öhlins money.

Before anyone kicks off by saying engineering blah blah blah, You don't know what your doing Blah Blah Blah. Start an "Anti R1 shock thread" and we can discuss why you shouldn't do this in there.


The things you need to do to fit the shock are:-
Replace the top and bottom bushings with ones that can take a 12mm bolt.
Replace the spring with one appropriate for your bike and your weight
Revalve the shock for the new application some people don't but I would

The top bushing has two dust seals that you pick out first. You’ll be able to see the bearing and the inner bushing just falls out. Find a socket that fits inside the eye of the shock and squeeze in a vice till it pops out. You can see the two seals and the bearing in the photo below.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The bottom bearing is MORE involved.
You can’t just push the lower bearing out in a press without damaging the shock. It’s a spherical or pillow ball bearing, pressed in and has two spring clips holding it in. Outside of those clips are the dust seals, outside of those are two steel top hat bushings that meet in the centre of the bearing

First get an old small flat blade screwdriver. In the centre of ID of the bush is a notch or groove. This is where the two top hat halves meet. This is hard because theres not much space to put any sort of force against the outer bushing. Just keep at it, it just take a bit of fiddling.Hammer against this notch moving around so you’re working evenly around the centre.
Eventually one of the top hats will come out. Once the first one comes out the second one is easier. Spin around and do the other one.
Then you’re faced with the dust seals. Use a sharp Screwdriver (not the one that it’s now blunt from hammering 🙂 ) to pick out the two dust seals. This is also fiddly.
Then you’re faced with two spring clips that sit in grooves on the inside of the bore. They're tiny as is the groove they're in,
You need to pick these out with what ever you have. I found that sticking a sharp watchmakers screwdriver on the opposite side to the gap in the clip worked best. Once the clips are out you can press the old bearing out using a vice and sockets or as my dad suggested a punch and ****ing big hammer
Once the bottom bearing is out you’re gold! You can see the grooves for the spring clips in the second photo You can also see the order these are from outside to inside
The Lower bearing OD is almost exactly 1inch
M0vgM3o8TRqRdIJxOnhLQw.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The new top needle bearing OD is 24mm and I bought a new one with 12mm ID and 24mm long to suit the ninja a while ago so I pressed that in using the same vice and socket technique I used to get the old ones out. Note the rebound adjustment screw :)
e6KR6f7VTKOaLDn6jnE0pg.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The original r1 spring is taller and narrower than the Eibach spring I bought. This is ok as I’ll need two preload collars to keep the spring centred as its got a slightly larger ID and the collars are roughly 5mm thick anyway.
Eibach model number 600.225.1100. 6 inches long, 2.25 inch 1100Lbs (I went on racetech’s site to estimate the correct spring rate for me but yours will vary depending on the size of your last lunch :))


More to come.......
 

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the workshop adopted tempering and quenching techniques during machining the bushing
using 190 N/mm spring rate but a bit "hard" for me, my weight with gear around 75KG
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Im around 93kg, with gear and have a similar spring rate. Your preload is set pretty high though by the looks of it... Have you tried reducing it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So the EIbach spring is a little larger in diameter than the stock R1. Ive done some research and found some collars the are from racetech and they are part SBSC5855. Ordered 2 obviously, one for each end.

@1179 Did the Olin’s spring fit straight on?
 

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So the EIbach spring is a little larger in diameter than the stock R1. Ive done some research and found some collars the are from racetech and they are part SBSC5855. Ordered 2 obviously, one for each end.

@1179 Did the Olin’s spring fit straight on?
the fitment technically is straight on, my ohlins spring is 1093 series however the OD is about 2-3 mm larger than R1 spring end stopper
IMG_20170527_202400.jpg
 

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Do you know if these same bearings, spring, and collars fit the 2008 R1 shock?

I believe the spring I need is this (1100 lb, 2.25" I.D. and 7" free length) or something similar but unsure of the collars; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hyperco-187A1100-Coil-Over-Spring-2-25-I-D-7-Free-Length-1100lbs/381304161939?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


On R1 forums I looked into the 2008 being larger but when you remove the u-joint the R1 has (ninja doesn't need) then the specs goes as follows;
Year 04-06 Shock length 300 mm
Year 07-08 Shock length 302 mm
Year 09-11 Shock length 297 mm
(thus the 08 is okay to use)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That’s why I mentioned in your thread to disassemble your own shock and measure the various components. I’m guessing that they would be similar. The versys forums have a lot more info on the 2008 shock. I’ll gather some links for reference... don’t know if external links are allowed but I guess we’re about to find out 🙂
 
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