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Discussion Starter #21
So I painted the Catalyst body myself. I wanted to leave the tank alone since it was already painted so I ordered a can of premixed lime green from Colorite to do some matching accent designs and did the rest in a fire orange. It is kind of like the Advanced Kawi colors. I used Auto Air color water based paint with an HVLP gun and put tarp walls on a 10x10 canopy in my back yard to make a poor mans paint booth.

Here's a couple of photos of the body mocked up, but you might notice there is no engine installed yet! That was an adventure I prefer not to post about for a variety of reasons! You can also see the Woodcraft sliders installed too.





A few other things I did.....

I made my own Lithium battery pack like the Speedcell packs. The pack came out to 14 oz!!!! And it helps me fit the stock ECU and the battery into the stock battery box. The little one is my crew chief in training....



I shorted the kickstand switch and the clutch switch to complete the keyless ignition setup.

Looking at dashes, I am thinking about the Koso RX-1 dash. Analogue tach but would use the fuel level sensor, neutral light, oil light, and I could keep track of total mileage with the odometer among other things... The track mapping and data acquisition would be really nice though... thanks for the heads up on the XT GPS versions.....
 

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It's comin along nicely. It really looks good.
 

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lookin good!

heres a question....why do all you racer-types run without the plastic side panels on either side of the tank? Thats right what your knees/thighs squeeze when you are straddled or tucked, and they only weigh a few ounces.
 

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lookin good!

heres a question....why do all you racer-types run without the plastic side panels on either side of the tank? Thats right what your knees/thighs squeeze when you are straddled or tucked, and they only weigh a few ounces.
they help grip the tank so won't slide off when you're at full lean (i think). they also protect the tank from from scratches and whatnot lol. i know some racers guys that don't like the stompgrips because they can't move around as freely, they rather be able to slide back into position. to each their own. feel free to correct me if i'm wrong.
 

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they help grip the tank so won't slide off when you're at full lean (i think). they also protect the tank from from scratches and whatnot lol. i know some racers guys that don't like the stompgrips because they can't move around as freely, they rather be able to slide back into position. to each their own. feel free to correct me if i'm wrong.
i think you misunderstood me. I was asking why they typically dont use the plastic side panels, which actually attach to the frame below the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
lookin good!

heres a question....why do all you racer-types run without the plastic side panels on either side of the tank? Thats right what your knees/thighs squeeze when you are straddled or tucked, and they only weigh a few ounces.
Three fold,
1) The rules require all body panels to be attached with a bolt, a cotter pin, or a positive retention method. The stock is just a press fit into the rubber grommet.

2) I planned on using stompgrip or Techspec because I find it really helps me stay on the bike when leaning off like a monkey.

3) those panels went to Cheetah with all the OEM bodywork and I don't have them in my possession :)

I have since added the Techspec Snakeskin traction pad. It is much heavier than the stompgrip and after emailing my weight concern, Techspec said one eof their other surface choices would have been lighter. We'll see how the techspec works. I usually peel the stompgrips up on the SV after a few races with my repositioning and general monkey motions on the bike.....
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
So here is where I talk about the engine build a little. Let's just say it will be modified just a little bit. I won't give away all the inside info that is in effect trade secret and actually, I can't yet vouch for the effectiveness of all the mods, but I can say there is a little engine work.

The dude who put the engine together and did whatever secret sauce recipe he has is Carry Andrew of Hypercycle. I cannot recommend him enough. He is the real deal, a genuinely nice and empathetic person, and clearly knows engines. His shop is nicely laid out and he has a specific engine room with his tools of the trade. He builds bikes for Kawasaki for a variety of purposes and seems to be the next best thing to the Kawasaki factory engine shop. He has built a few Ninja 650's now and knows the engines pretty darn well and has his preferred build numbers down pat. He's got a couple of Moto-ST 650R's laying around the shop (among other bikes) that I guess are owned by Kawasaki.

He is usually really loaded up even with jobs for the Kawasaki guys. In fact, my engine build took a little extra because he had some engines to build for the Larry H Miller Superbike race up at Miller with the WSBK races. Of note is that his engine won that race as ridden by Jake Holden. He also works on Elena Myers bikes for Kawasaki (she's a little fast, especially for a 15 year old girl!!!)

As you might be able to tell, I was pretty happy to have Carry put my engine together. He was really accommodating of my inquiries and I knew it would take a while to get to the front of the queue, but once I did, he was done in no time.

If you need some engine work on your 650, I can't guarantee he is sitting around waiting for business, but I can guarantee you will be happy to work with him and happy with his work. I didn't get any special deal or sponsorship or anything, I was just happy to have him help me out!

Check them out at
http://www.hypercycle.com
Phone Numbers:
Hypercycle Shop: (877) HYPERCYCLE or (818) 988-8860
Carry Andrew: (818) 261-7104 - [email protected]
 

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Could we see a shot directly from the rear with that 180 installed? I'd really like to see what this looks like compared to the, diminutive by today's standards, 160 stocker. And where can I find a good used 05 zx6r wheel? Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Could we see a shot directly from the rear with that 180 installed? I'd really like to see what this looks like compared to the, diminutive by today's standards, 160 stocker. And where can I find a good used 05 zx6r wheel? Thanks for any help.
Here is all I have for now:




I don't think those are the best angles to show off how mean and bad *** that huge rear tire makes the bike look. When I was rolling the bike around Advanced Kawi, one of the dudes commented on how huge and mean that tire made the bike look.... I'll need it with all the HP it should make!!!

I got my rear wheel from www.gotmotoparts.com
The ex-racer who owns the place just parts out bikes. I actually have a spare rim that has a slight dent in it. My plan was to get it fixed for $80 or whatever it might run me and keep it as a spare to a spare. I actually have an extra set of spacers for the conversion so the only thing it would really need is the modified sprocket from Zoran. Or just call Zoran and see if he can get you a complete package like he might have done for one of the other forum members.
 

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1) The rules require all body panels to be attached with a bolt, a cotter pin, or a positive retention method. The stock is just a press fit into the rubber grommet.
ahhh, there it is!

though, isnt the aft-most attachment point a bolt just rear of the tank? that probably doesnt cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So I got the engine back from Carry and got it installed in the bike. It goes in suprisingly easy and the upper rear bolt will hold the whole engine in place while you line up the rest of the mounts. Also, Kawasaki thoughfully provides little tabs to safety wire your oil plug, oil filler cap, and water drain bolt. Very nice!

I installed the 09 Woodcraft sliders and went to work on routing the cables and harnesses and what not. I installed a Two Bros Juice Box since that is all that was officially available for the 09. It was pretty easy to install, as it just goes in line with the fuel injector cables and a single wire running to ground. I couldn't get connectors to "click" so I doubled the wired over the joined connector and zip tied it so that the connectors could not separate without first removing the zip tie.

I left the airbox in, removed the snorkels and removed the air filter leaving just the "bug screen". The throttle bodies were modified by Zoran (i.e. bigger) and the subthrottle plates were removed.

The PAIR valve crap was removed and Carry plugged the ports inside of the engine for a lighter weight verison of the removal! Good stuff....

I made my own Lithium Ferrous battery packs that uses the same A123 battery as the Speedcell pack. It weighs only 14 oz!!! This helped me put the battery, the ECU, and the Juice Box all within the stock battery compartment. I bought enough to make an extra 2 packs so I might build those and sell them to offset some of this build cost! :)

I finally got an Arata Full Ti system from Kyle Racing and we got that installed. Pay special attention to holding the muffler to the headers. I used the stock kickstand spring and some extra thick safety wire to really hold that sucker on. I also safety wired the clamp bolts per WERA rules and per good practice because of the exhaust slides back a little, it obviously rubs the rear tire which is maybe not so good....

Filled it up with distilled water, water wetter and 10W40 dino oil and did 5 heat cycles on the engine. We then put it on the dyno to break it in and see what we had.

We had to max out the Juice Box and it was still a little lean from 9500 to 11000 but it got the job done. I had spoken with Dobeck and they said either them or Two Bros could modify the Juice Box to add even more fuel if I needed. Since I was waiting on a PCV, I didn't think it was worth the trouble and we also didn't have the time since I was trying to race at 5:30PM and we were dyno testing 100 miles away at 2PM.

I am sure everyone is wondering how it did on the dyno and I think we all know dynos vary and you have to take the data with a grain of salt. We were more interested in if the mapping was close enough to race, but it showed somewhere in the mid 80's for HP. At some point when it is developed and mapped proper, I'll post up a dyno chart for posterity.....

We got it out to Willow and I did the 20 lap solo race with 4 pit stops to twiddle the knobs and check the bike out to see if anything was coming loose or breaking. The bike has a long way to go and I will reserve comments on it's performance until I get the suspension dialed in, the engine mapped, and I really try to go fast. To start with, it was for sure slower than my 2000 SV650, but that bike was well developed, suprinsingly strong, and very forgiving. On Sunday I got two 3rd places and a 5th. I am sure I could have won 2 races on the SV, but I was glad to develop the Ninja 650R especially since July is a contingency month. Hopefully I'll have this Ninja 650 as good or better than the SV very soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
950 is a 1st gen SV and 87 is a 2nd gen SV. I usually beat those guys and hopefully will beat them this upcoming race with a few tweaks to the new bike.

As soon as a leathers company sponsors me, I'll get some coordinated leathers:)
 

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Awesome post. Thanks for sharing with us. Great to see a stock bike evolve into a racer. Keep up the great work and stay safe!
 

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omg i love the bike, definately love those tails. wish the 09 had a seat cowl that kinda made it look like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
So I got the PCIII on the bike and sort of mapped (need a little more work) and ran it again this weekend. It was 107F air temp on Saturday and 114F at the corner workers station. The track surface was around 130F-140F. In short, it was hot. The point of this is that the stock 09 radiator (bigger than the 08, 1.3L vs. 1.1L) worked okay without making the dummay light come on. I used an infrared thermometer to check the temp immediatley off the track and the highest I saw was about 220F for the water temp. The head was maybe 245F (on the hotter left side). This was pretty much worst case scenario for the bike with two exceptions. Over time, the radiator fins will get dinged up a little and hurt it's performance and hopefully I will make a little more power when I get the mapping dialed in. I will keep an eye on the temp for a while for sure.

I had the forks redone by Catalyst Reaction courtesy of Tige at cyclemall.net and after a couple of tweaks, they were feeling really good and giveing great feel and feedback. We worked on the penske settings too and got the bike pretty darn close to where I like it.

The biggest issue I have is that the motor feels soft around 7k-8k and there are one or two corners where I lose time if I downshift one more to get the revs up and I lose time when the engine is in the 7500 rpm range. I need to work on those corners..... and maybe the mapping there to help a little too.

A couple of distinct impressions now that the bike is set up similar to my old and pretty fast SV650.

The bike turns easier and transitions easier than the SV. I was hitting some lines I would not have hit on the SV because this bike turned in that much quicker.

The motor up top is now similar to my old SV, but the SV was more stock than this one. Hopefully with a little more tuning and switching to Full Synthetic, I can get it slightly stronger than the SV. The mid range is worse than the SV by ~5HP or so.

There is a lot more engine braking and this is slowing me down in places where I could maybe use 2 downshifts instead of just one. I think this might be related to a heavier crank and the use of the counter balancer. A lightened crank and counter balancer might pay some divedends or a simpler way might be a slipper clutch. I still have some work to do to figure out the engine characteristics.

The bike is about 15-20 pounds heavier than my SV with a similar build. I think the steel frame and subframe (what's left of mine) are driving the weight up. I would have thought a parallel engine would be lighter than a V, but Kawi may have added some extra beef in a few places for reliability, low vibraiton, cost, or something else. Not sure which engine is lighter. Oh yeah, the fuel injection system surely weighs more than the flat slides with pod filters on the SV.

Oh yesah, how did I do? I got within 1.7 seconds of my previous best with a couple of places I know I was losing time due to the soft mid-range / engine braking effect. I got a 1st, a 2nd, and a 3rd. I got 2nd to an ex-AMA provateer who built an 89HP bike and who teaches at the track. no shame there. And I got 3rd to a couple of Ducati's, 748 and a 749 and I didn't finish that far behind them. So it was a really good weekend. Did I mention I lost 5 pounds in the heat? Forget Jenny Craig, just go racing at Willow in the summer!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So as an update to the build.

The bike helped me win two class championships and #6 overall at WSMC in 2009. I am still a little slower on it than my old SV and have not fully adapted to the different engine characteristics but I still get the impression it turns better than the SV and I know the straight line speed is better (I'm just slower on corner entry and exit).

I lowsided it in February (cold tires in morning practice with 45F air temp) and and the Woodcraft sliders were instrumental to minimizing the damages. I ended up with a small dent / scrape on the tank, and some rashed body and that's about it. I had it race ready in less than an hour after the crash including putting new tires on it.

I got the bike repainted with some gracious help form Cyclemall and more folks are now letting me know how much they didn't like the previous orange and black. :barf: Ha!

I have a PCV and Autotune on it and with a little tweaking on the dyno at Cyclemall, it is putting out about 86HP or so with a top end that just keeps going. It made less on the Hypercycle dyno when it was fresh but that could be part not fully broken in and part dyno to dyno variation. At any rate, keeping it on boil between 9krpm and 11krpm should make this thing fly, and I hope to get my lap times down more in the future.
 
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