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Then post them Anal... personally, I prefer the name Obo vs Anal but your choice.
 

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Here's a very decent URL for carb dis assembly and cleaning.

It's for a different bike (URAL) but it uses the Keihin CV carbs like ours. While it shows a single carb setup, the process is the same for a four carb setup. They do not need to be separated or removed from the rail unless you plan to do a full submerge in a true carb cleaning solution.

Keihin 32CVK Disassembly
 
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I'm having the exact same problem, pulled carbs for 4th time(bike did sit for couple years) going to spray them all out again, had shop clean them once, don't know if ther synced, bike will start right up but only running on two cylinders and bogs same as your description, after I clean them I'll remount and ensure my airbox boots are sealed....
 

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Here's also another how to to remove, open and reinstall. It's more related to replacing jets, but the jist is the same.

Kawasaki ZR-7 - Jet Kit Installation

I'd just like to say though I don't condone heating the rubber boots with a hair dryer. I found they went in relatively easy as it was.

I've had the carbs off the bike & disassembled at least 4 times in the last year and a half lol...

Also, clean one carb at a time. That way you don't mix up parts. The needles and tubes are NOT all the same.

carb_needle_needle_jets_100p.jpg Jim_carb_2.jpg
 

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Which needles go to the in/out carbs?
Longer to inner or vise Versa?
As I recall the longer ones go on the 2 inside and the shorter go on the outside.

That being said here is the service manual statement: (If they are stock) they should have N6NC stamped on two and N4MD on the other two. The N6NC ones go in carbs 1 & 4 (outer) and N4MD go in carbs 2 & 3 (inner)
 

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^^^^^
Really appreciate everyone's help...this thing has me aggravated.
Can't count how many times I've had these carbs off and on....I boiled them, replaced all pilots, new intake boots, checked air box boots....
Got emulsion tubes correct, checked all spark wires and plugs...
I'll be pulling carbs again to check the needle lengths....


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I think the article linked below applies to most motorcycles designed in the last 30 years or so.

I did add a custom airbox, a K&N air filter, and an oiled foam K&N prefilter to my cruiser in 2003 along with drilling out the stock exhaust, but it took me many hours of experimentation and swearing to get the carb jetting set properly for them (I also added eyebolt exhaust baffles for more midrange power, with fender washers bolted to the eye):
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ROGUE Aftermarket High Flow Airfilter questions page
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But in just trying to get it running on all cylinders first....
Which one's are running and which are not? Just want to make sure the wires aren't on wrong and you don't have a bad coil. That'll mess things up even before your fuel concerns.
 

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I'm new to bikes, anyway, my 03 was having trouble running without choke ( even when it'd been running it'd turn off without choke, and wouldn't start even in this 60 degree California morning ) so I pulled the carb out and cleaned it all out with carb cleaner. We recommecyed the carb to the engine ( side with the clamps ) but didn't put the rubber boots on, and poured some fuel in to see if it would start. It only started with starting sprayed on the back, but wouldn't run for longer than a couple seconds. Also has came out of the gas tank and the hose is fine, but for some reason it's not going into the carb. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Ok so heres my problem,

I bought the bike thinking it would be a relatively easy fix but its got me stumped lol,
When Started it fires up and idles like a brand new bike but once throttle is applied it will bog out and almost die as if it is starving for fuel one you get to 1/8th to 1/4 throttle.
I have had the carbs off 3 separate times and cleaned them with no luck, adjusted the idle air screws to the recommended turns that I found on this site (thank you) which if I remember correctly was 2 and 1/4 ?? cant quite remember exactly.
When running if I Apply the choke (cable off and just pushing on where the cable connects) the motor will idle up with no bogging.

The other day I ran the gas tank dry on the bike and for some weird reason it started running better (ie: revved up beyond 1/4 throttle) but the downside was that there was then fuel leaking back out / spraying when revved, from the two carbs furthest away from the gas tank petcock.

After it ran for a couple minutes it started to do the bogging again.

Were the needles possibly stuck open and allowing too much fuel into the bowls but yet giving it the fuel that it was previously starving for?

Could it be that I just need to adjust the floats to allow more fuel into the bowls?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am really hoping to get this bike going and on the road as It would make me a great first bike I feel.

Thank you for any and all help in advance.

I have a 03 zr7s and I cleaned the carbs because it was bogging a little bit and when I put it back together, it started up right away. As soon as I went to rev it, it stalled. I waited and thought it needed to warm up longer but it kept bogging and would stall. I went back to it the next week and my buddy was with me and he said start it up for him. I started it up once again it started fine and then all of a sudden it was completely fine. Maybe if you let it run for a good 20 minutes and let it cycle through and the next day repeat the process and try revving it
 
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