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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so heres my problem,

I bought the bike thinking it would be a relatively easy fix but its got me stumped lol,
When Started it fires up and idles like a brand new bike but once throttle is applied it will bog out and almost die as if it is starving for fuel one you get to 1/8th to 1/4 throttle.
I have had the carbs off 3 separate times and cleaned them with no luck, adjusted the idle air screws to the recommended turns that I found on this site (thank you) which if I remember correctly was 2 and 1/4 ?? cant quite remember exactly.
When running if I Apply the choke (cable off and just pushing on where the cable connects) the motor will idle up with no bogging.

The other day I ran the gas tank dry on the bike and for some weird reason it started running better (ie: revved up beyond 1/4 throttle) but the downside was that there was then fuel leaking back out / spraying when revved, from the two carbs furthest away from the gas tank petcock.

After it ran for a couple minutes it started to do the bogging again.

Were the needles possibly stuck open and allowing too much fuel into the bowls but yet giving it the fuel that it was previously starving for?

Could it be that I just need to adjust the floats to allow more fuel into the bowls?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am really hoping to get this bike going and on the road as It would make me a great first bike I feel.

Thank you for any and all help in advance.
 

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Have you tried running it on "prime". Possible the petcock isn't functioning properly and allowing fuel/enough fuel thru. (it's vacume operated when in "on" position but, open regardless of operation in "prime" position Secondly, check for obstruction in the inline filter just before the carbs. (see previous posts from our friend Obo with a diagram on exact location). If fuel delivery isn't the issue, it's problems may still be in the carbs. Unless all 4 float levels are messed up (did you, or PO "adjust the float levels?) 1 bad one, wouldn't prevent the bike from revving up. It would just cause a "miss" or poor performance. (i.e running on 3 of 4 cylinders properly)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In order to eliminate the possibility of a petcock / filter/ tank issue I took the tank off, put fuel in a small container and ran it like that, still had the same exact bogginess.

The filter in the plastic T between the carbs I removed completely and it was clean when removed but the PO had already been there.

Could there be something plugging the line somewhere that runs from carb to carb?

Also when I cleaned the carbs I only pulled the bowls and removed everything from inside the bowl area that I could remove to clean, I did not break the carbs apart I left them all attached together, should I take them apart from the bracket holding them all 4 together? and if so what else is there to clean?

Please be patient with me as I do not have any experience with bikes and know just enough to get in trouble lol.

thanks again
 

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120psi followed by carb clean followed by 120 and carb clean....if you cant/wont do that..then you need to do a 50/50 mix pinesole and soak the carbs for 4-6 hours

10-1 odds are youve got something in the carbs that "light" cleaning will NEVER get out

you do NOT need to break down the carbs or part them...what you DO need to do is pull the jets and and idealy the top hats so you can pull and clean the needles.....anything beyond that is GREAT but not useualy needed....the jets tho if you dont remove them to clean..you didnt actualy do anything
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will do what you suggest and see where that takes me. I hope you are correct. I will do it this afternoon and let you know what comes of it. thanks
 

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I guess one of us, or myself should make a short video explaining what "cleaning the carbs" entails for others to understand in the future. How & where the high speed, low speed jets are located and all the passages that need to be cleared of debris and/or varnish associated. Including float, needle and seat function I forget that younger folks don't know about, or even have carbs on bikes anymore with F.I. being as established as it is now.
 
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considering the carbs on...er...for my bike are hanging out the side right now by just the throttle cables...ill shoot detailed pics..but i wont do vid...

i pulled mine for a cleaning cause the mpg seems to bounce all over the place a bit wildly and i suspect somethings gotten into the carbs ...preventitive maintinance ..at the same time i do some body patching and possibly swap on a dent free tank
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I know the basics of carbs but as far as specifics no I do not know which jet is which etc, However I do think it would be a great resource to have a video or even pictures of the proper way to completely clean the carbs and maybe an explanation as you said of which pieces are which. To be honest the only f.I. thing ive had was my 2011 Honda Rancher.

Anyways I am going to go clean the carbs again...... With lots of air and carb cleaner, and then more of each lol. I really like this bike and would love to get it going great as I only paid $450 for it so im sitting pretty good in it at the moment.
 

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Your "the man" for the job then Shortlife, since ya got'em off all ready. It's a decent all around bike and relatively easy to work on/fix because of the basic technology used. (minimal sensors, etc.)
 

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Your "the man" for the job then Shortlife, since ya got'em off all ready. It's a decent all around bike and relatively easy to work on/fix because of the basic technology used. (minimal sensors, etc.)
minimal?...lol the ktrik does not count as a sensor..and its the only one on the bike LOL

for all intents..our bikes are early 80s gpz's
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok so I just went psycho cleaning the carbs, used 3 cans cleaner and blew out every orifice, nook, crack, and cranny about 30 times, got it back together, started up beautifully but it still bogs and wont gain rpm once it hits about 1/4 throttle,

Its almost like there is some sort of rev limiter or something kicking in

I will say that with the more in depth carb cleaning it is more responsive up till it bogs out

I also tested the carb boot and found that they are not leaking, even with them not leaking I wrapped them in electrical tape just to be certain.

I am getting stumped and to be quite frank really freakin frustrated and if I cant figure it out soon ill prolly just sell the bike although I really do not want to.
 

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You pulled both jets on each carb, and could see light thru them? Possible air flow? If it's a K&N, was it over oiled and not allowing any air, just as an off chance?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes I pulled both and all the passages were clean and I could see through.

As far as air flow I have the boots that go from the air box to carb off as I have had the carbs on and off a number of times and the boots are a pain to put on.
 

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That may be the issue. These are CV carbs and in order to run with pod filters (or no filter) they must be re-jetted to compensate for the complete difference in vacume/air flow. Put the boots back to the airbox and try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok that is good to know I will put them back in either tonight or tomorrow morning and hopefully that will solve my problem.

I'll let you know how it all turns out. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok so spending like half an hour messing with the carb to air breather boots I can gladly say that the bike runs awesome.

I took it for a quick ride down the road and back and holy cow does the thing rip lol.

I would like to say thank you for taking the time to help me it is/was greatly appreciated and as long as I have the bike I will probably be a common name on this site.

Again thanks guys
 

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No problem, happy to help and glad it's up and running for you. Getting those boots on the air box can be a PITA, especially if your hands are too big to get at them from inside while seating the "lips" of the boot properly around the perimeter, and each boot has a specific carb because of their shape. CV carbs use vacuum to raise the throttle slide vs a cable and are more sensitive, and tougher to properly tune without an air box. (such as using individual pod type filters)
 

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when i was yanking mine i found one of those boots deformed..aperantly when i did it when i got the bike i screwed 1 up

something else to note on most any bike carb is the need of pressure..not just from the box, boots etc..but the air filter itself..any air restriction at all is basicly dialed in by the factory to make the carbs work as intended
 

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I'm a little late to the party here & am glad to hear you have it fixed. I'm right next door so to speak in NB. As for the carbs, I already have pics showing the paths for most of the insides of our carbs if anyone is interested. I did them up the last time I cleaned my carbs. Call me anal but it seemed logical to figure out how the fuel & air should be flowing in order to figure out if the passages were clean. It was easy to make sure the other removable parts were clean so the only unknown was the hidden inside passages.
 
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