2010 R1 shock on 2010 er6/650.

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2010 R1 shock on 2010 er6/650.

This is a discussion on 2010 R1 shock on 2010 er6/650. within the Ninja 650R Performance Upgrades forums, part of the Kawasaki Ninja 650R category; Do this at your own risk, I take no responsibility for what happens to you, thats YOURjob. First ... why would you want to adapt ...

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Thread: 2010 R1 shock on 2010 er6/650.

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    Up-And Comer AusEr6guy's Avatar
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    2010 R1 shock on 2010 er6/650.

    Do this at your own risk, I take no responsibility for what happens to you, thats YOURjob.

    First ... why would you want to adapt a different shock? The standard one is less than rubbish.
    The 2010 R1 shock is the same length as an ER650. It has low speed compression and high speed compression and rebound adjustment as well as hydraulic preload you can adjust with a screwdriver. This is a common mod on Versys 650’s but on ninjas and er6’s not so much. Its about $250 AU worth of gear on eBay. To get something to perform similar to this you have to pay ÷hlins money.

    Before anyone kicks off by saying engineering blah blah blah, You don't know what your doing Blah Blah Blah. Start an "Anti R1 shock thread" and we can discuss why you shouldn't do this in there.


    The things you need to do to fit the shock are:-
    Replace the top and bottom bushings with ones that can take a 12mm bolt.
    Replace the spring with one appropriate for your bike and your weight
    Revalve the shock for the new application some people don't but I would

    The top bushing has two dust seals that you pick out first. You’ll be able to see the bearing and the inner bushing just falls out. Find a socket that fits inside the eye of the shock and squeeze in a vice till it pops out. You can see the two seals and the bearing in the photo below.
    Last edited by AusEr6guy; 05-12-19 at 04:06 AM.
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    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    Top bush 24mm OD
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    Up-And Comer AusEr6guy's Avatar
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    The bottom bearing is MORE involved.
    You canít just push the lower bearing out in a press without damaging the shock. Itís a spherical or pillow ball bearing, pressed in and has two spring clips holding it in. Outside of those clips are the dust seals, outside of those are two steel top hat bushings that meet in the centre of the bearing

    First get an old small flat blade screwdriver. In the centre of ID of the bush is a notch or groove. This is where the two top hat halves meet. This is hard because theres not much space to put any sort of force against the outer bushing. Just keep at it, it just take a bit of fiddling.Hammer against this notch moving around so youíre working evenly around the centre.
    Eventually one of the top hats will come out. Once the first one comes out the second one is easier. Spin around and do the other one.
    Then youíre faced with the dust seals. Use a sharp Screwdriver (not the one that itís now blunt from hammering 🙂 ) to pick out the two dust seals. This is also fiddly.
    Then youíre faced with two spring clips that sit in grooves on the inside of the bore. They're tiny as is the groove they're in,
    You need to pick these out with what ever you have. I found that sticking a sharp watchmakers screwdriver on the opposite side to the gap in the clip worked best. Once the clips are out you can press the old bearing out using a vice and sockets or as my dad suggested a punch and ****ing big hammer
    Once the bottom bearing is out youíre gold! You can see the grooves for the spring clips in the second photo You can also see the order these are from outside to inside
    The Lower bearing OD is almost exactly 1inch
    M0vgM3o8TRqRdIJxOnhLQw.jpg
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    Last edited by AusEr6guy; 05-12-19 at 04:09 AM.
    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    Here’s the finished product. Note the grooves where the spring clips go!
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    Last edited by AusEr6guy; 05-12-19 at 04:10 AM.
    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    And the whole set in exploded view so you have an idea how it all fits together
    On the left top of pic is the top bearing, on the right is the bottom. The spherical bearings is right at the bottom
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    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    The new top needle bearing OD is 24mm and I bought a new one with 12mm ID and 24mm long to suit the ninja a while ago so I pressed that in using the same vice and socket technique I used to get the old ones out. Note the rebound adjustment screw
    e6KR6f7VTKOaLDn6jnE0pg.jpg
    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    The original r1 spring is taller and narrower than the Eibach spring I bought. This is ok as I’ll need two preload collars to keep the spring centred as its got a slightly larger ID and the collars are roughly 5mm thick anyway.
    Eibach model number 600.225.1100. 6 inches long, 2.25 inch 1100Lbs (I went on racetech’s site to estimate the correct spring rate for me but yours will vary depending on the size of your last lunch )


    More to come.......
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    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    I'm hoping that I can fit the SKF GEH12c Spherical Bearing in the bottom....
    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    I put R1 shock on my 08 ER6N with ohlins spring, works fine
    IMG_20170527_173835.jpgIMG_20160720_205044.jpg

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    What did you do about the top and bottom bushings ? Also what spring rate did you use? How close is your rider sag and what’s your weight ?
    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    the workshop adopted tempering and quenching techniques during machining the bushing
    using 190 N/mm spring rate but a bit "hard" for me, my weight with gear around 75KG

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    Im around 93kg, with gear and have a similar spring rate. Your preload is set pretty high though by the looks of it... Have you tried reducing it ?
    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    Quote Originally Posted by AusEr6guy View Post
    Im around 93kg, with gear and have a similar spring rate. Your preload is set pretty high though by the looks of it... Have you tried reducing it ?
    No, I put a topcase on it and the rebound action runs smoothly

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    So the EIbach spring is a little larger in diameter than the stock R1. Ive done some research and found some collars the are from racetech and they are part SBSC5855. Ordered 2 obviously, one for each end.

    @1179 Did the Olin’s spring fit straight on?
    2010 ER6NL ABS

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    Quote Originally Posted by AusEr6guy View Post
    So the EIbach spring is a little larger in diameter than the stock R1. Ive done some research and found some collars the are from racetech and they are part SBSC5855. Ordered 2 obviously, one for each end.

    @1179 Did the Olin’s spring fit straight on?
    the fitment technically is straight on, my ohlins spring is 1093 series however the OD is about 2-3 mm larger than R1 spring end stopper
    IMG_20170527_202400.jpg

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