Bandit electrical problem

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Bandit electrical problem

This is a discussion on Bandit electrical problem within the General Bandit Chat forums, part of the Suzuki Bandit Forum category; I have a 1998 Bandit with 80K miles. On a recent trip of 160 miles, the bike started and ran fine as usual. The weather ...

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  1. #1
    Newbie 98Bandit's Avatar
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    Question Bandit electrical problem

    I have a 1998 Bandit with 80K miles. On a recent trip of 160 miles, the bike started and ran fine as usual. The weather was warm and sunny. At the last gas stop before our destination, when I turned on the ignition switch to start the bike, only the green neutral light and red oil pressure light on the dash came on. Everything else electrical on the bike was totally dead and of course the bike would not start. The main fuse was OK, the kill switch was off. The battery was not dead and jumper cables off a truck battery nor bump starting did not work. All connections were checked, but to no avail. The next morning when simply double checking the fuse box with a volt meter, and thus turning on the ignition switch yet again, everything suddenly came back on, and the bike started. It has started every time since, but I'm plagued with the chance this gremlin will reappear again. I called a couple of Suzuki mechanics, but of course they never heard of this problem before. I studied the wiring diagram in the shop manual, and to the best of my reckoning and deduction, it seems to me that the problem either had to be either in the ignition switch, or the ignitor (black box under the seat). Has anyone else experienced this problem and found the solution??

  2. #2
    Up-And Comer Eskimomann209's Avatar
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    i have had this issue several times actually but in my case it happened after i placed a stunt headlight kit on her
    so i removed the bikini and placed a aftermarket headlight and wrapped all exposed wiring in elec tape i attributed it to me taping over a loose connection
    but same thing happens itll be a pain and wont start ill walk away and it starts later
    but always remember to check the battery connection
    it will turn all lights on but wont have enough juice to crank it over
    good luck and keep us posted

  3. #3
    Newbie geoboy's Avatar
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    Might be corrosion in the switches? I had something similar happen on another bike. I "cured" it by spraying Radio Shack brand, tuner cleaner into the kill switch and, if I remember correctly, into the ignition switch. I put another 50,000 miles on the bike and it never happened again. I hit the switches with the tuner cleaner every couple of years for good measure.

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  5. #4
    Newbie alphabob01's Avatar
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    It could be one of the "safety" interlock switches, more than likely the one on the clutch lever, i had this problem and linked the connections under the lever thus bypassing it. All was fine, the other ,on the side stand can get dirty, so give it a clean with a good spray of wd 40 or something similar. good luck.

  6. #5
    Newbie 98Bandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphabob01 View Post
    It could be one of the "safety" interlock switches, more than likely the one on the clutch lever, i had this problem and linked the connections under the lever thus bypassing it. All was fine, the other ,on the side stand can get dirty, so give it a clean with a good spray of wd 40 or something similar. good luck.
    I have experienced the safety switch problem already a few years ago....the bike started with bump start. With this problem, it would not.
    As far as I know, the kill switch has made no difference and now when it's behaving normally, hitting the kill switch does not offer the same symptoms as when my problem occured.
    Battery connections were checked. Others keep suggesting that it could be one of the earth (ground) connections. But I don't understand how it could so drastically change from working perfectly, then not working at all, then working perfectly when none of the ground connections have been tampered with.

  7. #6
    Newbie RonGriff's Avatar
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    I've just had exactly the same problem... Drove all right 'til I stopped at a roundabout, the engine died but I still had the Neutral and Oil lights working, no Indicators, lights, horn, starter. Called for roadside assistance since I didn't have a multimeter with me. Checked everything, pulled all the fuses, worked the Ign switch a few time and waggled the handlebars... nothing. Guy goes to his van to get a screwdriver to take the headlight off to check the connector blocks in the housing and just as He's about to remove the forst screw... the indicator started flashing, Checked everything else and they all worked.

    Been examining a wiring diagram to look for a suspect area, but looking at it, the indicators etc get their power from the same place as the Oil / Neutral light, and the side lights have their own contact on the ign switch so you can leave a light on at night while locking the steering. As yet the thing hasn't failed again, I suppose I'll have to risk it on a road test round the block a few times uphill from where I live (just in case).

    Unlike the original poster, I'd only covered about 1.5 miles from first start of the day to the breakdown.

  8. #7
    Newbie RonGriff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphabob01 View Post
    It could be one of the "safety" interlock switches, more than likely the one on the clutch lever, i had this problem and linked the connections under the lever thus bypassing it. All was fine, the other ,on the side stand can get dirty, so give it a clean with a good spray of wd 40 or something similar. good luck.
    The safety interlocks wouldn't affect the operation of the indicators, horn or lights.

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