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How to build a ZR-7e(s)

This is a discussion on How to build a ZR-7e(s) within the ZR-7 Performance Upgrades forums, part of the Kawasaki ZR-7 category; Yes altering the pre-load does affect the way the bike sits. More front preload and the front will sit up, less and the front will ...

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Thread: How to build a ZR-7e(s)

  1. #61
    Rising Star Wado750's Avatar
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    Yes altering the pre-load does affect the way the bike sits. More front preload and the front will sit up, less and the front will sit down.

    I agree that your wheel is centred. It's hard to do to with high accuracy as there is no datum surface to get a precise measurement on. Another way is to see how the brake disc sits in a mounted caliper an see if the distances are the same in the other one.

    I used a hagon rear shock, from England, to replace the original and I was very happy with it. A shock from the same model bike that your got the forks from fits too. Might be cheaper to pick up one of these and get it rebuilt.

    Try this link for further reading.

    easy shock upgrade!
    Neil
    Yamaha FZ8S


  2. #62
    Rising Star tmoons's Avatar
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    Zx6r shocks are out there "all over the place" for around 50 euros (sometimes with dogbones, sometimes with lots of dirt ) A refurbish would be another 100 I guess which is mandetory, realising that 1995 is 17 years ago

  3. #63
    Rising Star tmoons's Avatar
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    Rear end... as well?

    I have a really friendly breakers yard near me, and i had the chance to take some measurements on a ZX6r rear swing arm. see attached schematic. is there some one out there that could do the same for a ZR7 swing arm? ?
    what i did see was that this swing arm was NOT symmetrical!
    I took measurements on this Kawasaki zx6r swing arm: (Kawasaki ZX6-R 636 2002)
    achterbrug Zx6r at work.jpg
    they also have a different (older swingarm Kawasaki ZX6-R 1995):
    018122ZX6RF15.JPG

    achterbrug Zx6r.jpg

    measurement with these numbers of the FIRST picture!!:
    1: 230 mm with of forks in pivot point
    2:265 mm width between forks at wheel
    3: 25 mm (smallest diameter, as it is an oval hole)
    4: 20 mm (diameter, round hole)
    5: 600 mm overall length from heart of pivot to end of fork.
    6: 170 mm (difficult to measure, distance from heart of pivot point to mounting bolt rear shock).

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  5. #64
    Rising Star Wado750's Avatar
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    Most swingarms won't be symmetrical as the chain drive has to go on one side.
    Neil
    Yamaha FZ8S


  6. #65
    shu
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoons View Post
    I have a really friendly breakers yard near me, and i had the chance to take some measurements on a ZX6r rear swing arm. see attached schematic. is there some one out there that could do the same for a ZR7 swing arm? ?
    what i did see was that this swing arm was NOT symmetrical!
    I took measurements on this Kawasaki zx6r swing arm: (Kawasaki ZX6-R 636 2002)
    achterbrug Zx6r at work.jpg
    they also have a different (older swingarm Kawasaki ZX6-R 1995):
    018122ZX6RF15.JPG

    achterbrug Zx6r.jpg

    measurement with these numbers of the FIRST picture!!:
    1: 230 mm with of forks in pivot point
    2:265 mm width between forks at wheel
    3: 25 mm (smallest diameter, as it is an oval hole)
    4: 20 mm (diameter, round hole)
    5: 600 mm overall length from heart of pivot to end of fork.
    6: 170 mm (difficult to measure, distance from heart of pivot point to mounting bolt rear shock).
    yes we can
    Fiat Lux (Genesis 1:3)
    CB 919 Hornet Black
    ZR-7 RED

  7. #66
    Rising Star tmoons's Avatar
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    Thanks Shu! I've been going over your notes.. interesting!
    When I get around to finally get this done, i will post more details. (i work 4 days, 10 hour days, and the fifth day i go to engineering school, and the home work takes up the rest of the time (evenings and weekends).

  8. #67
    shu
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoons View Post
    Thanks Shu! I've been going over your notes.. interesting!
    When I get around to finally get this done, i will post more details. (i work 4 days, 10 hour days, and the fifth day i go to engineering school, and the home work takes up the rest of the time (evenings and weekends).

    waiting for pics
    Fiat Lux (Genesis 1:3)
    CB 919 Hornet Black
    ZR-7 RED

  9. #68
    Rising Star tmoons's Avatar
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    I've had my Zx6 front in for some time now.... all is well.
    But what did you guys set your setting screws? (the ones at the bottom, and the ones at the top..?) does anyone have a zx6 user manual in which they describe the basic setup?

  10. #69
    Site Elder pattonme's Avatar
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    the top is rebound, the bottom compression.


    0. write down how many clicks each was OUT from lightly seated
    1. turn rebound all the way out
    2. correctly measure static and rider sag. Adjust spring preload at both ends to get reasonable values

    Suspension and Springs
    If you can't get 30-35mm rider sag on forks and ~30mm on shock, just stop and get the proper springs. (static should be 15-20mm F and 5-10mm R)

    3. turn compression all the way out
    4. with a buddy holding the bike upright or on a rear stand, shove down hard on the bars and let go or "go limp" so the front-end can pop up without you interfering.
    5. Keep adding rebound till the front end still comes up fast but doesn't oscillate
    6. Go for a ride and try to find the gnarliest piece of bump and pot-hole (not cavern) ridden road. Relax on bars and try to feel how "harsh" it feels.
    7. re-run that stretch of road this time with 1 more turn (IN) of rebound. Does it feel choppy and harsh? If so, back off 1/2 turn and rerun.
    8. run it again with another full turn OUT (aka 1/2 turn out from where you started the road test) and compare.

    A *LOT* of riders think the harsher, the choppier, the better. No! Suspension shouldn't be soft, but it should be plush yet controlled.

    Ride some decent curves. See if you can notice it the front end staying put (good) or coming up too fast and wallowing around (bad, add in 1/2 turn rebound) when transitioning from upright to the side or from side to side.

    Ride it that way for a few days.
    THEN go find some clean pavement on which to practice moderately hard to HARD braking. You're checking to see if you're blowing thru the compression stroke too fast and if the front end stays stable. If the forks feel like they are just collapsing add a turn of compression. Try again. Add a line of preload if you're using up the entire travel. (Hint, you may need stiffer springs). Add 1/2-1 turn of compression and see how it feels.

    Go back and ride the potholes/bumps and see how you like it. Go back and do the curves.

    Record what you think are good values by counting clicks/turns OUT from all the way in.

  11. #70
    Rising Star tmoons's Avatar
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    NICE! let me find some time and i'll get to it!

  12. #71
    Supreme Being shakennstirred's Avatar
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    search for dave moss on youtube he does some great vids on how to set Suspension
    watch the ones called two clicks out
    The light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off until further notice
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmR...OXdKGl4KlQnU3w
    Kawasaki ZR7

    K&N,Dynojet,ignition advancer,Brisk racing plugs,Dyna coils,taylor leads,17T front sprocket,Nitron shock,hyperpro fork springs,preload adjusters, GPR Furore Exhaust

  13. #72
    Newbie rikktor's Avatar
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    Hi guys,

    I've checked the schematics of the ZZR & ZR7 and it turned out, that the front axle is the same. The collars and the nut are different, but I have a thought to get a ZZR axle (with the collars) and put it on the ZR front wheel, instead of making custom collars. Did anyone tried that?

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