well it seems that i will be buying myself some kawasaki parts today
This is a discussion on How to build a ZR-7e(s) within the ZR-7 Performance Upgrades forums, part of the Kawasaki ZR-7 category; Yes that's the correct model bike and the items you need. You will need to get a spacer made that goes between the speedo drive ...
Yes that's the correct model bike and the items you need. You will need to get a spacer made that goes between the speedo drive on the fork. You'll either need a 4mm or 5mm spacer, depends on wheel centralisation and a sleeve to go over the axle ends with inside diameter of 23 and outside diameter of 25. It sounds like a daunting task, but once you get into it, it's really quite easy.
well it seems that i will be buying myself some kawasaki parts today
This is an overview of the complete fork. when i got it, i was VERY afraid... it looked like giant legs, as the diameter of the legs needs to be 41 in order to fit the holes in the triple tree of the ZR7. but after a quick dash into the garden (catching serveral spider webs with my face) i could conclude it was both 41...
fork upload 2.jpg
a closer up of the calipers, nice 4 pistons tokico's. including pads!!
and the (to me ) familiar caps, as i have these on my bike also, but the just have not real purpose there, apart from a little pretension perhaps.
A buddy of mine made the 23X25 bushes, so I can start test fitting to see what else i need.
Not sure where you're located but I strongly recommend getting the forks valved and serviced. I might even have Traxxion Dynamics compression pistons in my parts bin.
They where used by a dude that did trackdays, (His dad dropped it of on his way to the track here in Zandvoort (near the beach in the Netherlands).
They have Wilbers springs in them, and thicker oil. He sold them as he was moving up to Aprillia RSV 1000 front ends , so i'll use them as they came for now.
BUT... I found these at the bottom of the leg, did you have them to?
There seem to be 2 adjusters (one on each leg) 12 clicks on the one, only... 10 on the other? anythought on that??
This does NOT mean i do not like to the idea you mentioned... what are these parts you mentioned.
I don't know about "thicker" oil. 7.5w or 10w is as high as I would recommend. Those are the compression adjusters. the ones at the top of the fork are rebound. The stock pistons are 'ok' but could stand to have bigger orifices to flow better. That's where RaceTech or Traxxion pistons come into play. Though this is probably way overkill at this juncture.
Also, clicks are counted in from fully seated. That way any deviations are masked out. As is, I would start with at least 6 clicks out on comp, and as many clicks out on rebound as you can get and not have the suspension pogo when shoved downward. The biggest mistake people make is putting in too much rebound and they wonder why their suspension is harsh and choppy.
Preload i can do
So i'll start there.
well... i'll start by getting my bushings (in an hour) and mounting it, than get my spacer rings (Brammer, large industrial supplies store has a whole bunch of these rings in store, starting at 0,1 to more than 1 mm).
I do read between the lines here that if I would mention a 4 day motorbike trip, to do some bends, I would be cautioned by you guys to get my bike set up first? (I would leave tomorrow...)
Job .... DONE.... well... Just some small details, but:
fork is in, axle and bushes are in, caliper is spaced wheel is spaced.
Fill calipers with brake fluid and attach the brake lines and bleed the system.
(hopefully this goes better than last time, when a rouge bubble was trapped in the left caliper)
Things i noticed:
The spacer rings I got for the wheel, disappeared IN the opening in the leg, I tried to put them between the bearing and the speedo pick up, this worked but the speedo didn't.
I resorted to using a larger ring (5mm ) from a Volvo gearbox i once stripped, this fitted, and all seems well.
just a little in doubt about bleeding the system as i have a holiday trip tomorrow (putting it all back together old style is 10 minutes work...)
Bleeding shouldn't be a problem, First thing is get some feel in the lever. Tap the calipers and brake lines with the soft part of a screwdriver and slowly depress the the front brake. You will see bubbles come out a little hole in the master cyclinder. Do this until you can't get any bubbles out, then bleed normally. 15 minutes of work.
Then take it for a ride and marvel at the transformation.
So.. back from 4 days of intensive curvy roads.
Lots of breaking (downhill) and even some miles off road.
A few things I noticed:
- Pads do not touch the outer 3 mm of the brake disc.
- The bike sits lower, i even decided to lower the rear spring (was set to max ride height) this also effects the ground clearance between the collector and the ground, as well as the space between rear wheel and the ground when on center stand.
- Settings as used (all "in the middle") seem to work for now.
- Brake is super hard (the lever is now in the "smallest" (no. 4) setting, and NO WAY i will get that lever to the bar... which was not the case in the old situation.
Things I need to do:
- Re check the spacing of the wheel between the legs,
- Get an official spacer made instead of the 5mm volvo gearbox unit i use now.
- See if I can get other pads, i already have worked with some GSX750R pads, that are bigger, but miss even more of the outer rim of the disc.
Any suggestions on above mentioned points?
Do you have a ZR7S with the half fairing? For some reason the forks for this variant were made longer than the naked version. The naked version has the same length forks as the zx6.
Could you post a picture of the pads not touching the outer 3mm of brake disc. Using the brakes that come with the forks you should have full contact.
Photo... will try tonight. The discs are aftermarked "wave"ones... perhaps that is what is causing it.
Hight: I had to re adjust my head light A LOT to get it to illuminate the road... :S, and the rear wheel is about 15 cm of the ground plus the side stand is on the ground when the bike is sat on by me, this was not the case...
I had a ZR7 (NOT S)... BUT.. somewhere in a previous life, the bike has been in an accident (there are some signs here and there...) perhaps they fitted the longer forks instead. I will do some measurements.
Is there any thing know about upgrading the rear shock to start matching the front performance?
The pad sweep missing...
and a picture of the bikes attitude...
They are on dropbox, but this website did not accept them as proper images.. so, they are now a link.
Did some measurements..
Length of old (uncompressed) fork leg, from the top of the axle hole to the cap at the top: 75,5 cm
Length of new (uncompressed) fork leg, from the top of the axle hole to the cap at the top: 75,5 cm
This leads me to believe the ride hide on the old springs was altered by using bushes in the fork leg, combinded with pre tension knobs....
well, i know now it should all be ok.
Also measured the gap between the heart of the disc and the forkleg inner face:
Both (in acurate measurement) 26/27 mm. So, I accept that as a centred wheel.
It seems my job is done on the front....
Now lets upgrade that rear end...