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master cylinder upgrade

This is a discussion on master cylinder upgrade within the ZR-7 Performance Upgrades forums, part of the Kawasaki ZR-7 category; Hello all just come across a nissin master cylinder in work perks of the job. and thought why not as it turns out it was ...

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  1. #1
    Newbie Nearlybeatabusa's Avatar
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    master cylinder upgrade

    Hello all just come across a nissin master cylinder in work perks of the job. and thought why not as it turns out it was completely compatible with the zr7 stuff ie brake light switch and the lever no modding neesed.

    it was a nissin with number 14 on the back just like the photo$_35.jpeg

    it works really well a lot more feed back and a bit more of a bite too, looks cool too
    shakennstirred likes this.
    17 t front sprocket, 170 rear tyre, stubby viper end can, stubby levers, braided lines f+r, heated grips, airbox mod, tail tidy, er500 clock cover, wide *** low bars, bar end mirrors, iridium plugs, fly screen, master cylinder upgrade

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    Obo
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    Supreme Being Obo's Avatar
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    As long as it fits the bars, fits the line going to the brakes calipers and creates enough pressure to push the pistons out, anything will work. Thanks for the knowledge transfer!
    2004 Kawasaki ZR-7S
    complete with extra "stuff"

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    Supreme Being rcannon409's Avatar
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    You do have to be careful matching up the proper size. The "14" means a 14mm diameter piston. If its larger than this, or pushes a longer stroke, it moves more fluid.

    Unless it matches up fairly closely, you'll move too much fluid and it will lock up easy, or too little fluid and you'll have mush and no power.

    Sometimes you get lucky and it works, but dont get the idea any and all will do the same.
    Vic.Thing likes this.
    2012 Ninja 1000 all green - Brembo 330mm rotors - AK20 fork cartridges -Penske shock-slipper -Ivans reflash...Leo Vince slip on and Arrow header

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    Newbie Nearlybeatabusa's Avatar
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    Didnt have a lot on in work and when I found a master cylinder with a dual banjo in I thought id give it a bash (whats the worst that can happen hey?) and see if it was worth my time. It feels like it responds better, I get more feedback from the lever but rcannon I will say it will lock up if you give it some but it was well worth doing

    Been on ebay too and to be fair there are a few of the same as i got on there and they are pretty cheap too
    17 t front sprocket, 170 rear tyre, stubby viper end can, stubby levers, braided lines f+r, heated grips, airbox mod, tail tidy, er500 clock cover, wide *** low bars, bar end mirrors, iridium plugs, fly screen, master cylinder upgrade

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    Supreme Being shakennstirred's Avatar
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    Interesting, I been looking and trying to make the brakes better.
    i'll have to have a look at one
    The light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off until further notice
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmR...OXdKGl4KlQnU3w
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    Supreme Being carryall's Avatar
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    I'd like a better/stronger/more sensitive rear brake myself. Even with new pads and clean rotors, it still takes a bit more pressure to skid/lock up rear tire on dry pavement than I'd like. Just my .02cents worth.

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    Newbie Nearlybeatabusa's Avatar
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    Mmmm we got a gsxr 600 in at the moment il try it when I get a chance to but just out of curiosity why do you want an epic rear brake? Ideally the rear is just for balance
    17 t front sprocket, 170 rear tyre, stubby viper end can, stubby levers, braided lines f+r, heated grips, airbox mod, tail tidy, er500 clock cover, wide *** low bars, bar end mirrors, iridium plugs, fly screen, master cylinder upgrade

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    Supreme Being rcannon409's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Nearlybeatabusa;1004748]Didnt have a lot on in work and when I found a master cylinder with a dual banjo in I thought id give it a bash (whats the worst that can happen hey?) and see if it was worth my time. It feels like it responds better, I get more feedback from the lever but rcannon I will say it will lock up if you give it some but it was well worth doing

    Yes, you happened upon a ratio that works for your needs, but not all will do the same. If you found a master that moved way more fluid than you are using now, it would lock way, way too easy. I'll show you my scars as proof! Or, if it moves too little fluid, it wont offer any power or feel.

    Heres a decent guide that explains what you want to look for. Like you noticed, they are everywhere, and cheap, so look for whats better for your application.

    Matching a Front Master Cylinder to your Caliper(s) - Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum
    2012 Ninja 1000 all green - Brembo 330mm rotors - AK20 fork cartridges -Penske shock-slipper -Ivans reflash...Leo Vince slip on and Arrow header

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    Supreme Being shakennstirred's Avatar
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    the Zr7 master cylinders piston is 15.80mm, so yeah the 14mm on this will give a stronger force at the calliper
    The light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off until further notice
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmR...OXdKGl4KlQnU3w
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    K&N,Dynojet,ignition advancer,Brisk racing plugs,Dyna coils,taylor leads,17T front sprocket,Nitron shock,hyperpro fork springs,preload adjusters, GPR Furore Exhaust

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    Supreme Being carryall's Avatar
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    The rear brake is essential for both trail braking corners and everyday "stop and go". Not to mention poor road conditions (wet and road debris like sand, dirt, etc...) and emergency stopping. 2/3rds is front BUT having that extra 1/3rd available dramatically increases your ability to control things. I'll take a temporary rear skid over not being able to stop, or front skid anyday. Use of BOTH brakes is essential to control and a good practice. I'm amazed at all the people that I see who don't even use the rear brake and cant explain why?

  12. #11
    Supreme Being rcannon409's Avatar
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    My advise on rear brakes is to try any and all other fixes first.

    Stronger pads,maybe? The rear master cylinders are not nearly as universal as front. Length will factor in, as well as placement. Then yo figure out all that, order it , and realize the hose attaches in the wrong spot.

    Nearly, if something with that small piston works for you, next step is to find a used yamaha r6 or r1. If you borrow its radial master cylinder, you are in for a whole new level of brakes.

    They use a brembo branded, small piston and are an incredible good performing master cylinder.
    2012 Ninja 1000 all green - Brembo 330mm rotors - AK20 fork cartridges -Penske shock-slipper -Ivans reflash...Leo Vince slip on and Arrow header

  13. #12
    Supreme Being carryall's Avatar
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    Replacement of the pads helped, and keeping them, and the rotor, clean is helpful I've found. I usually spray them off with brake cleaner around the same time as doing my chain cleaning which keeps them working as well as possible. They aren't "bad brakes", but compared to other bikes I've owned, they do take a bit more foot pressure. Of course, tires are key to the equation of braking distance too. They aren't bad enough to invest the time, money and effort to try upgrades?. Just a little "nit-pick" quirk of the bike In my own preference/view. I may try a different compound pad next spring just to see if there's much difference, and/or going to stainless steel line may improve the "feel/feedback". It's not a trackbike, and I'm a pretty conservative rider...most of the time anyways. LOL

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    Supreme Being sh0rtlife's Avatar
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    bigger isnt always better but ive come across over the years that a "little" bigger say under 10%is almost always better...like you carry im no fan of the rears they just dont have the needed feel..and the travel to make em work is to long giving nill on the feedback and just barely work..do they lock sure if you just stomp it hard

    RC can you confirm the r1/6 is an improvement and a neer fit?

    up front im quite happy ..out back its like the XR drum being on my xl600r..i know its there and kinda works but there aint enuf of it to make me happy compared to its stock big brother

  15. #14
    Supreme Being rcannon409's Avatar
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    I cant confirm it 100% as I dont have any of the components, however...The r6 calipers have very small pistons and the master cylinder is a 16mm....

    I mentioned that as it was an unreal sort of improvement on my sv 650. If we assume your calipers are like my sv 650 was (piston size), you would really be in for a treat. I believe its the same caliper you guys have, so we can call it "sort-of confirmed".

    If you are going to mess with mastercylinders, you want a radial model.

    You will probably need this adapter to make the switch as the stock brake line will likely point the wrong way. I think you can find them in the states. This is probably not the only supplier.

    Universal Radial Master Cylinder Adaptor - Brake Line Components
    2012 Ninja 1000 all green - Brembo 330mm rotors - AK20 fork cartridges -Penske shock-slipper -Ivans reflash...Leo Vince slip on and Arrow header

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    Newbie Nearlybeatabusa's Avatar
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    Definitely go for ss lines carryall, might just be enough for you bit il have a good rummage and play with bits when I got time to
    17 t front sprocket, 170 rear tyre, stubby viper end can, stubby levers, braided lines f+r, heated grips, airbox mod, tail tidy, er500 clock cover, wide *** low bars, bar end mirrors, iridium plugs, fly screen, master cylinder upgrade

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