zr-7s converted to zr-7
This is a discussion on zr-7s converted to zr-7 within the ZR-7 Performance Upgrades forums, part of the Kawasaki ZR-7 category; Does the bar snake fit through the threads that the bar ends screw into? Aren't the threads (the nut) welded to the inside of the ...
Does the bar snake fit through the threads that the bar ends screw into? Aren't the threads (the nut) welded to the inside of the handlebars?
I have been thinking about doing something similar to my bike. I want to be able to add a large plexi fairing during the winter and still keep the qualities I enjoy. I was wondering how much trouble it is to convert to zr7 gauges. Also, how complicated is the wiring to attach the double headlights pictured. This is the type of lights I visualized on my bike.
btw, great looking mods.
It is better to die living than to live dying.
I *think* if you were able to get your hands on a set of zr7 gauges, then they just bolt right up....but the problem is finding a set at a reasonable price.
I just cut 2 pieces of flat aluminum that I got at Lowes and mounted my zr7s gauges....there are obvious disadvantages to this (i.e. all the exposed wiring on the back and kinda ugly)...but it works. I'm planning on installing an aftermarket digital gauge by acewell. Not sure how hard that's going to be, but I'll let you know when I get my hands on one.
The wiring isn't hard...just a little work...(disclaimer: I do have a BS in Electrical Engineering). There is no wiring diagram included with the lights, so you have to either have a manual or use a voltmeter to figure out which wire does what. If you get into it and get lost, you can always just post the Q on here and we'll help you figure it out.
I'm sure you can find a flyscreen that will follow the contours of a single or double light...I've seen them around, but don't know how hard they are to install.
hope that helps.
Nice job on your conversion 88bomber. I have a few questions about the conversion as I think I might be doing it also. Ok, how did you mount the two flat pieces of aluminum to the ZR7S gauges and to the bike, and do you have some close-ups of this? When you cut your windshield down to nothing how much better was it than your stock shield? How much better is the naked version than the cut windshield? Lastly, how much did all this cost except for the mirrors?
Thanks for any info.
SW Motech 20mm Bar Risers
Zero Gravity ST screen
The aluminum pieces are mounted using the same bolts that hold the cable guides. See pic. Really simple actually, just grab a piece of aluminum from Lowes, cut to length, drill holes, and presto. However, The 1/8" aluminum I used is actually a little weak...they aren't falling off or anything, but the gauge cluster does shake a bit when you go over rough ground. I'd use something stiffer if possible. 1/4" is probably too thick...unless you get longer bolts...maybe 1/8" steel is the way to go...but obviously a little more $.
Cutting down the windscreen didn't make much difference at all...maybe a little a certain lower speeds (30-40), but over that and the noise was still unbearable. Personally, I wouldn't recommend cutting down the screen...unless you are just doing it for appearance...other than that it's a waste of time and screen. With my current setup, the wind noise is much better....there is more wind on my chest obviously, but it doesn't bother me no where near as much as the wind that the windscreen threw in my face. Buffeting is better too....as has it's been described before, "the air is cleaner" (less turbulent). If you want to experience the difference in wind noise, just stand up on your bike at speed...that is almost exactly what it's like after the conversion....that's one thing that convinced me to do the conversion in the first place.
For turn signals, I reused the stock ones, but had to remove the rubber part and use a piece of rubber hose to shim the stem (bolt). You'll see why as soon as you take them apart. See pic.
I built my own headlight relay kit using parts I got from www.partsexpress.com. THIS ISN'T REQUIRED, but since I went from 1 55w bulb to 2 55w bulbs, I thought it was a good idea. It works well too!
relay holder: $1.90 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-078
relays (x2): $5.00 (2.50 each)
fuse holder: $1.25
You'll need some 12 or 14 gauge wire and your favorite connectors, but you can get those anywhere...I had enough lying around to do the job.
headlights with brackets: $218
reuse turn signals: $0 (there is some slight modification needed..see pic)
headlight relay kit: ~$15 (OPTIONAL)
I think that's it...beyond that, just a little time.
hope that helps...let me know if you need more info.
88bomber, thanks alot for that information and the time you spent taking the photos. Now I see how to mount the gauges.
Today I took of my ZG Touring screen off and then duct taped over the hole between the gauges and the headlight (about 3-4") and it was as quiet as when riding standing on the pegs. Just about no wind noise at all. I rode about 25 miles between 65-75 mph and it was great except it was very tiring compared with the windshield. This isn’t very good because I ride usually between 125 and 250 miles when I ride. Don’t know your height but I’m 6’1” wear a Scorpion EXO-400 helmet and have an inseam of 33”s for comparison. So did you try riding without the windshield and have the same results?
SW Motech 20mm Bar Risers
Zero Gravity ST screen
never mine my page took a while to load
Last edited by kauaiian; 10-23-07 at 03:25 PM.
Reason: didn't see it above
How did you make the home made relay? I have a dual headlight setup on my ZR-7 w/ two 55w bulbs, however I only run one bulb at a time. I'd like to have the two running constant but don't want to fry my wiring.
We are exactly the same size and I wear a Scorpion EXO-700...small world. I really don't get that tired. I think the noise and buffeting fatigues me more than the pressure on my chest. However, I usually don't take long interstate rides, so take my comments for what they are worth. This setup is certainly a compromise...ultimately, you just have to choose between the lesser of two evils...or get another bike.
I bought 2 of the relays (one for high beam and one for low), a dual relay holder, and a fuse holder (see parts above). Just plug the relays into the relay holder and then the project becomes purely a wiring exercise. Your experience/knowledge will determine how easy/hard this is.
Here is some good information about the pin layout of the relays.
I just attached the relay holder and relays under the voltage regulator (under the tank) with zip ties...but you can put it just about anywhere that is out of the weather a little bit. I did use some electrical tape around where the relays plug into the holder...just to help keep moisture out of the connections. Also, the relay holder comes with some of the pins pre-jumped, but not the ones I wanted, so I had to move the wires around...no big deal...you'll see when you get them. Stick to the diagram and it'll work.
See pic for wiring diagram...I did this really fast, so don't laugh!!!
I updated the diagram and added the blue stuff. Basically, I added 2 diodes to act as "quenching diodes". When a relay disengages, the inductor in the relay still has a magnetic charge and it tries to release that energy by producing a voltage in the opposite direction...very large voltage (up to 200v sometimes), but very small current. That voltage spike can damage transistors, LEDs, and other semiconductors on the same circuit. In stock trim, I don't think the ZR7(s) has any circuitry that would be affected, BUT if you use aftermarket gauges (acewell, koso, etc), then you might blow an LED without these diodes. Some relays have this protection circuit built in and others don't...you can tell if it is built in if the control circuit leads (86 & 85) have a positive and negative designation...the ones I used do not have the diodes built in. You can use the 1N4148 diodes, but other rectifier diodes will work as well. The 1N4148 you can get at radio shack in a small pack of 12 or so for about $2. Again, you don't HAVE to do this, but if you have any modern electronics on the bike's system, beware.
Last edited by 88bomber; 03-23-09 at 11:53 PM.
Thanks 88, I'll give that a try, your diagram simplifies the job a lot!
If you wired up your standard headlights using the wiring diagram above would it brighten up the headlights? I've had cars where I've done that and it has improved the brightness because obvouisly for cost cutting reason manufactoreres use the thinest and cheapest wire they can get away with. Was just wondering if it was the same with the bike or is the cable run that short it wouldn't make a difference?
Wado, it makes a big difference, irregardless of the distance. I just did mine and the change was literally night and day.
Nice work 88bomber! It looks like a Triumph Street Triple.
I've thought about doing something like this but I occassionally go on some pretty long rides. Is the wind on your chest on an all day trip going to tire you out faster than the buffeting. How easy would it be for you to go back to the ZR-7S? i.e. is the S-ectomy reversible?
Givi V46 top case w/ Givi rack
Rich is right. My stock light would dim as the rpm dropped below a certain point, but with the relays installed, I can't detect any dimming. I also measured the before and after voltage....before the relays, I lost about .25 to .5 volts in the wiring compared to the battery voltage (at idle). After installing the relays, the voltage loss was 0 (i.e. the loss was so small, my voltmeter couldn't detect it).
The mods are totally reversible. I didn't destroy any stock parts during the conversion (other than cutting the wires, but a quick crimp will fix that). Probably in about an hour, you could have your S back.
Most of the time when I take an "all day trip", it's on lots of backroads (i.e. fun roads), so I'm not doing 75 mph for 400 miles. Maybe I'm a freak, but on long rides, my butt, back, neck, and knees start hurting way before my arms...it just isn't that much force on my arms to tire me out...but I'm sure everyone is different. Maybe the ZR-7 (2000 model) guys have a more comprehensive answer for you since they've got many more miles on a 'S'-less ZR than I do.
I think adding the blue diode (D) in this pic when used with 2 H7 bulbs will give you 1 light on low beam and 2 on high.
Remember, the stripe on the diode points in the same direction as the blue arrow in the pic.
Last edited by 88bomber; 03-23-09 at 11:58 PM.
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