GVE installation

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GVE installation

This is a discussion on GVE installation within the ZR-7 Performance Upgrades forums, part of the Kawasaki ZR-7 category; Finally found a time that my mechanic wasn't busy and could let me in to his shop to use some specialty tools. i had four ...

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  1. #1
    82nd Chairborne loudles's Avatar
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    GVE installation

    Finally found a time that my mechanic wasn't busy and could let me in to his shop to use some specialty tools. i had four things i wanted to do to my front suspension - change the oil (over 12k miles), change the fork seals, install Racetech Gold Valve Emulators, and install the fork caps from a ZX-6E for pre-load fine tuning. three out of four ain't bad.

    i did all the work with the mechanic monitoring me so i didn't make any mistakes.

    first, i detatched the front brake calipers and removed the front wheel and fender. then i took off the handle bars after i had draped a towel over the tank. all this stuff is in the shop manual so i won't go into detail.

    i removed the forks and disassembled them one at a time. this disassmbly is in the manual as well, but to sum up - take off the cap, take out the washer, spacer, and spring, dump out the oil (pumping a few times), remove the bolt at the bottom of the fork, remove dust cover and clip, pull the two halves apart. pull out damping rod and bottom out spring, and remove old seal.

    now for prepping the GVEs. any zr-7 owner will have to make some kind of spacer for his/her GVEs as the damping rods will not allow the GVE to sit flush. i cut 15mm spacers from PVC (thanks pattonme for the advice) - i just used the spacers i already had. while you are cutting the spacers, remember to cut another 12mm off of the top spacer (the one that sits on top of the big fork springs) to accomodate the GVE. if you don't, then i wish you all the luck in the world getting the fork caps back on. from the factory the preload on the GVEs are set at 2 turns which is what was recommended for street applications - for racing or gonzo street/canyon carving consult the manufacturer.

    i also needed to drill four more holes on the damping rod - the GVE will be doing the damping rod's job from here on in so the oil must flow more freely through the damping rod. make sure that you have a steady hand when you are drilling and make sure to get rid of as many of the metal shavings as possible.

    with that done, reassmble the fork following the details in the shop manual. when installing after-market springs, find out the recommended oil level. in my case, i have progressive springs (1126s) and progressive recommends leaving 5.5" (140mm) of air in the fork.

    another note - the Racetech technician recommended 10w oil. the shop manual recommends 10w oil. do what you are going to do, but at least try the 10w oil.

    i got everything buttoned up and reattached everything. the mechanic checked my work and took my bike for a test spin. then i did. we both concluded that the bike felt more planted in a corner and i noted that the front end dive was much less than it has been. i had a short ride home in the dark with dark tinted visor and a head light that needs reaiming, so i don't have many impressions beyond that. i'll report more as i am able to go riding on some of my favorite twisty roads.

    we didn't do the ZX-6e fork cap swap because we didn't have any washers that would work. i reckon i can get that sorted out soon.

    hope this helps.
    2000 ZR-7 with a baseball card in the spokes - FOR SALE
    2002 Triumph Speed Triple and a Daytona 675

  2. #2
    Johnny Blue Lightnin'
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    Thats good to hear Les. I want to improve my forks with the GVE's and understand that the SVRaceshop is no longer offering this service. I'm glad to hear it can be done by a non-professional.
    Jon

    2010 Triumph Tiger 1050
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  3. #3
    82nd Chairborne loudles's Avatar
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    initial assessment

    took the longer, twistier way home . . . i can definitely feel a difference with the GVEs in. before i could feel every bump that my front tire went over which made the front end feel uncertain. now, the front end feels way smoother. with the GVEs in, the front end feels more planted and front end dive under braking has been lessened. i'm planning a longer ride soon, but these are my initial impressions.
    2000 ZR-7 with a baseball card in the spokes - FOR SALE
    2002 Triumph Speed Triple and a Daytona 675

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  5. #4
    Site Elder SuprHtr's Avatar
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    A quick question: Which model cartridge emulator fits the ZR7? FEGV S4101?

    Thanks,
    Paul in Alabama
    "The squeeky wheel gets the tack weld!"
    2003 ZR-7S
    1995 GPz 1100
    Tolerant Wife

  6. #5
    82nd Chairborne loudles's Avatar
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    which model?

    you are correct, sir. they are s4101. you will also need a 1/2 inch spacer.
    2000 ZR-7 with a baseball card in the spokes - FOR SALE
    2002 Triumph Speed Triple and a Daytona 675

  7. #6
    Johnny Blue Lightnin'
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    Where is the best place to get the GVE's?
    Jon

    2010 Triumph Tiger 1050
    2005 Yamaha FJR 1300 ABS Sold
    2000 ZR-7 - Sold and still missing it
    2001 KLR 650 - Gone but not forgotten
    2001 King Quad 300
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  8. #7
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    Les, you are just up the road (US-29) from me.... ever consider the ROTR this May??? Or perhaps we can hook up some time...
    Last edited by GUMP; 12-03-09 at 06:06 AM. Reason: Text Color change
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  9. #8
    Site Elder SuprHtr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonF
    Where is the best place to get the GVE's?
    I've seen them on Ebay but stopped bidding after the price got stooopid. I ended up ordering mine directly from RaceTech. If anyone knows a cheaper source, I'd love to know it, since I need a pair for the ZR.

    Paul in Alabama (for 8 more days)
    "The squeeky wheel gets the tack weld!"
    2003 ZR-7S
    1995 GPz 1100
    Tolerant Wife

  10. #9
    Johnny Blue Lightnin'
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    www.chaparral-racing.com has them for $142. I looked them up for a 91-93 ZR750 (Zephyr) I cant buy them yet, gotta wait for a bit and get a good rear shock to match.
    Jon

    2010 Triumph Tiger 1050
    2005 Yamaha FJR 1300 ABS Sold
    2000 ZR-7 - Sold and still missing it
    2001 KLR 650 - Gone but not forgotten
    2001 King Quad 300
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  11. #10
    Rising Star ZippeR7's Avatar
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    Installing GVE's Today

    I'm putting GVE's in my 2000 ZR7 today. I have been running a progressive 1145 spring but RaceTech recommends a constant rate spring. I'm debating weather to keep the 1145 or go back to the stock spring. I'm 185lbs without gear. Anyone with experience with both? Opinions?

    First I removed the lip from the GVE's.
    Then I made some adapters in order to get the proper fit specified in the instructions.
    Now the point of no return, drilling the new and bigger holes.

    Thanks John
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    [B]2000 ZR7 Mods: Eastern Beaver headlamp relays with modulator, Homemade stainless bar ends, Rentec luggage & engine bars, EGR ectomy, Cortech sport tail & saddle bags. Garmin Zumo 550, Racetech Gold Valve Cartidge Emulators. Galfer braided brake lines. Hagon shock.

    2008 Ninja 250R
    2003 Kawaski Vulcan 500 LTD
    B]

  12. #11
    Newbie wildBill's Avatar
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    I shortened the stock spring to make it stiffer and made a new spacer cut to dial in the static sag.

  13. #12
    Newbie Loudvalves's Avatar
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    I did the install today. The only difference is that I have a pair of Hagon progressive springs already installed. These are full length springs with no spacer so with the added length of the adapter and the Gold Valve the caps were not easy to get on!! Preload came out nice though at 20mm static. I ran 15wt oil at 110mm. On testing the forks are a little harsh at slow speeds but once the pace picks up they are awesome. Front end is very planted and the bike tracks like it's on rails. I also have a Hagon shock on the rear. The B roads up here in Northern Cal are nice and twisty but they are also very rough. Now the front doesn't bottom at all . I'm going to try some lighter oil and maybe drop the oil level a bit the take some of the harshness out.

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