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Transmission clunking

This is a discussion on Transmission clunking within the ZR-7 Maintenance forums, part of the Kawasaki ZR-7 category; Well you've certainly dived in the deep end! Most of us started from the top down! The good thing is stuff gets lighter from here ...

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Thread: Transmission clunking

  1. #16
    Up-And Comer anilv's Avatar
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    Well you've certainly dived in the deep end! Most of us started from the top down!

    The good thing is stuff gets lighter from here on!

    Anil

  2. #17
    SCB
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    Wow, that's a big project! Kudos to you for tackling it. Would love to see some pics.

    Where'd you get a new transmission to put in it?

  3. #18
    Up-And Comer Ratchet101's Avatar
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    A used transmission was found on Ebay. It was in excellent shape and not very much money. I will post some pics when I get it up and running.
    Last edited by Ratchet101; 01-06-17 at 06:59 AM. Reason: add some more

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  5. #19
    Newbie ashwin88's Avatar
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    Transmission clunking

    hi,,,

    I own a 2006 Ninja 500R lime green with love. Her name's LeLu btw. But i've been having very concerned problems with my transmission. I'd like to post some of the symptoms and what i've done to try to fix it (other than taking into the shop *oh no!*) I've had these symptoms for about three months now. I ride my bike everyday to/from work as it is my primary mode of transportation. In 10mo i've put 5k miles on it.

    Symptoms:

    Clunking from neutral down to first all the way up to sixth. I've found that while shifting up to sixth while my rpm is hovering around 5k rpm it shifts a little more smoothly. But that is not necessairly the case. On somedays it seems to be workikng fine and on other days its a terrible cla-thunk cla-thunk sound or a teeth gritty grinding sound.

    Shifting also seems worse on lower gears.

    When I shut the engine off it makes a terrible clunk sound and the bike has a small jolt (like something is turning over inside the engine that's heavy).

    My throttle is spongy. It is on and off and I havent isolated the reason. It seems like it could be depending on my accelleration (higher rpm) or when there is more gas in the tank. Btw. when the tank is full it seems to work better than when it is below 1/2 full.

    My oil light wont go off (even though I just replaced the oil and filter last week). And when I replaced the oil my transmission seemed to 'work' well half the time (no clunking or grinding) and then after a week it went back to being miserablly grindy and clunky.

    What i've done:

    *Replaced both oil filter and oil.
    *Tightened and loosened my clutch.
    *Clean chain, internal and external gear-sprocket- thingy(haha).
    *I've read in another forum that there might have been air trapped in when i replaced my oil filter so it advised loosing my oil filter 1/2 spin and turn on the motorcycle. The only thing that came out was a little oil and light stayed on.

    As of yet i've not found a 2006 ninja 500r manual but i've found 1986-2002. There is supposed to be one on the kawi cite but the web address says they dont have any in stock. Any link to said manual would be helpful. I wana teach myself and learn more about moto. maintance but its rather difficult w/o aid.


    PREVENTATIVE VEHICLE MAINTENANCE
    Last edited by ashwin88; 02-26-17 at 09:06 PM.

  6. #20
    Up-And Comer anilv's Avatar
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    You mentioned you tightened the chain.. did you check if the cush drive rubbers are OK?

    These are pieces of rubber which live in the hub and dampen the shock of the bike going in gear. You can check by getting the bike on its mainstand, put it in gear (engine off) and moving the wheel back and forth. If there is a lot of play between rear sprocket relative to the wheel then the cush drive is shot.

    Anilv

  7. #21
    Obo
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashwin88 View Post
    hi,,,

    I own a 2006 Ninja 500R lime green with love. Her name's LeLu btw. But i've been having very concerned problems with my transmission. I'd like to post some of the symptoms and what i've done to try to fix it (other than taking into the shop *oh no!*) I've had these symptoms for about three months now. I ride my bike everyday to/from work as it is my primary mode of transportation. In 10mo i've put 5k miles on it.

    Symptoms:

    Clunking from neutral down to first all the way up to sixth. I've found that while shifting up to sixth while my rpm is hovering around 5k rpm it shifts a little more smoothly. But that is not necessairly the case. On somedays it seems to be workikng fine and on other days its a terrible cla-thunk cla-thunk sound or a teeth gritty grinding sound.

    Shifting also seems worse on lower gears.

    When I shut the engine off it makes a terrible clunk sound and the bike has a small jolt (like something is turning over inside the engine that's heavy).

    My throttle is spongy. It is on and off and I havent isolated the reason. It seems like it could be depending on my accelleration (higher rpm) or when there is more gas in the tank. Btw. when the tank is full it seems to work better than when it is below 1/2 full.

    My oil light wont go off (even though I just replaced the oil and filter last week). And when I replaced the oil my transmission seemed to 'work' well half the time (no clunking or grinding) and then after a week it went back to being miserablly grindy and clunky.

    What i've done:

    *Replaced both oil filter and oil.
    *Tightened and loosened my clutch.
    *Clean chain, internal and external gear-sprocket- thingy(haha).
    *I've read in another forum that there might have been air trapped in when i replaced my oil filter so it advised loosing my oil filter 1/2 spin and turn on the motorcycle. The only thing that came out was a little oil and light stayed on.

    As of yet i've not found a 2006 ninja 500r manual but i've found 1986-2002. There is supposed to be one on the kawi cite but the web address says they dont have any in stock. Any link to said manual would be helpful. I wana teach myself and learn more about moto. maintance but its rather difficult w/o aid.
    If it's getting worse and you're still riding it don't expect it to get better or go away. Best case scenario is it gets worse until it just stops (aka the bike will just no longer start / run). Worst case it you have a catastrophic failure while riding it and wipe out. Have the thing looked at by someone with some knowledge, and soon. It may be a broken part, bad oil pump, plugged pickup etc. Any bits floating about in the oil / engine are only going to do more damage. Ignoring it or wishing it wasn't so is not going to help.
    2004 Kawasaki ZR-7S
    complete with extra "stuff"

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  8. #22
    Up-And Comer Ratchet101's Avatar
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    I need help from the members of this site to help solve my current problem with my 2001 ZR-7S. Here is an update on my broken gear box and the new current problem.
    As you recall, when I removed the engine and split the cases, first gear was broken in several pieces (all broken pieces with located and removed). A used but very good transmission was purchased and installed. At this time I checked the shifting of the bike and I could shift it in the different gears just like new. At that point, the engine case half was bolted back on and the engine was re-installed in the frame. Now after re-assembling all the parts, coils, carbs, exhaust system and side covers, the bike stays in neutral. I cannot shift the bike out of neutral. The inside of the side cover is very clean. So dirt and grime are not an issue. I have tried moving the shift lever up and down but it will not go in gear. The clutch appears to be in good shape and hopefully adjusted properly.
    Does anyone have any idea why it will not go in gear?

  9. #23
    Supreme Being Vic.Thing's Avatar
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    Does the shifter move up and down? Is there any resistance? My guess is somewhere either something's not assembled properly or the shift drum is binding. I would start with the shift drum and try to manually actuate shifting from that side. If you can put it in/out of gear from there, you know it's somewhere between the shifter and there, or internal.

  10. #24
    Up-And Comer Ratchet101's Avatar
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    The shift lever will move up and down. It will not engage in any gear.

  11. #25
    Up-And Comer Ratchet101's Avatar
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    I removed the clutch hub today and got access to the shift drum. The cam-change drum (star shaped) would move clock-wise one notch. Not any further. That's as far as I got without applying pressure.

  12. #26
    Supreme Being Vic.Thing's Avatar
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    I'm going to guess it's something not together correctly in that area. The shift drum is what controls the shift forks which move the gears along the shalfts changing gear. The ratchet system ratchets up and down, just as you actuate with the shifter. When shift and you hear the clicking, that's the ratcheting, not the gears or whatever. The person who broke your bikes gears probably heard something like that but it was the gears.

    You should be able to actuate your shifter and be hearing and seeing that ratchet system click and the shift drum move.

    You should be able to apply the amount of force you'd apply through the shifter. I'd guess somewhere around 5-10 ft lbs (which is not much force) is about what you exert on the shift rod with mechanical advantage. Look at 7-4 in the service manual (or there abouts) and there's a diagram of that area.

    At the spot your looking at, the problem exist on one side of that spot or the other.

  13. #27
    Up-And Comer Ratchet101's Avatar
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    Thank you. Should I be able to turn the shift drum (by hand) more than one click?

  14. #28
    Obo
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    With the bike not running you'll only be able to get N & 1st gear anyways as I recall.
    2004 Kawasaki ZR-7S
    complete with extra "stuff"

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  15. #29
    Up-And Comer Ratchet101's Avatar
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    Thank you. Currently, I do not have the bike running. Also, there is zero oil in the crankcase (in case it needs to come apart again). The transmission will not go into first gear.

    So, today I removed the engine. It is sitting on a table waiting to have the lower half of the engine case removed. Hopefully, when it gets opened up, whatever was causing it to not shift in gear will become obvious.
    Last edited by Ratchet101; 03-06-17 at 02:37 PM.

  16. #30
    Up-And Comer Ratchet101's Avatar
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    Update: Got the cases split open today. All the gears look great. No problems with the actual transmission gears. Inspected the shift drum and shift forks. They look good as well. At this point it is difficult to see what is actually wrong and not letting the bike shift through the gears. My guess it is with the shift drum and forks. It is just hard to tell. The forks do not appear to be bent or excessively worn.

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