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Pulsating Rotor Questions

This is a discussion on Pulsating Rotor Questions within the ZR-7 Maintenance forums, part of the Kawasaki ZR-7 category; The guardrail I tried to go under was not very kind to my Pulsating Rotor Cover and slightly dented my main housing. The crunch caused ...

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  1. #1
    Rising Star Azzip's Avatar
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    Pulsating Rotor Questions

    The guardrail I tried to go under was not very kind to my Pulsating Rotor Cover and slightly dented my main housing. The crunch caused the sensor to move inward slightly. I've smoothed out the crunch enough so that I think I can mount the sensor in the correct position but...

    how much clearance, if any, should there be between the rotor and the sensor?
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    ZROA # 900
    '00 ZR7

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  3. #2
    Rising Star Azzip's Avatar
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    Sensor

    I'm sure "Sensor" is not the correct name for this, but any comments on its usability? Even though cracked, it is strong with no wiggling.
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    ZROA # 900
    '00 ZR7

  4. #3
    Supreme Being AndreL's Avatar
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    Azzip,
    I am concerned about the crack in the sensor. The sensor is an induction coil embedded in plastic epoxy. The epoxy casing is now cracked and moisture will likely go in and with time, possibly cause the failure of the sensor.
    With regards to the clerance, I can go and measure it on my bike and let you know. It is small, I am guessing slightly less than one millimeter.
    André
    2004 red ZR-7S
    2002 silver ZR-7S, (destroyed by SUV)
    1981 Honda PA50
    1975 Norton Commando MkIII
    Mods: 17T front sprocket, Eastern Beaver headlamp relay, MotoSpecialties mirror extenders, GG axle nut covers (with lifetime guarantee), Jackman-tested backrest, homemade aluminum rack for Givi soft saddlebags, Westach CHT gauge, homemade faceplate for CHT, rear-shock internal mudflap, Pyramid fender extender and a partridge in a pear tree. Considering Stebel horn and Renntec bars.

  5. #4
    Gold Member/Community Dad Berto's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Andre Lalonde
    Azzip,
    I am concerned about the crack in the sensor. The sensor is an induction coil embedded in plastic epoxy. The epoxy casing is now cracked and moisture will likely go in and with time, possibly cause the failure of the sensor.
    With regards to the clerance, I can go and measure it on my bike and let you know. It is small, I am guessing slightly less than one millimeter.
    When you restarted your bike we heard a louder than normal tapping coming from the rotor area, was thinking something bent inside and rotor tapping against metal. More than likely could have been arcing from this coil - Andre on the ball here, good chance the noise from this broken piece.
    Berto
    ZR7OA Member#: 229

  6. #5
    Supreme Being AndreL's Avatar
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    Berto,
    I think the tapping noise you heard was the rotor hitting the sensor, and this is why the sensor is cracked. Arcing would however not be a problem since there is no high voltage on this sensor. I just hope that Azzip will be able to adjust the gap on the sensor without having to change the casing (i.e. having to change the engine base )
    André
    2004 red ZR-7S
    2002 silver ZR-7S, (destroyed by SUV)
    1981 Honda PA50
    1975 Norton Commando MkIII
    Mods: 17T front sprocket, Eastern Beaver headlamp relay, MotoSpecialties mirror extenders, GG axle nut covers (with lifetime guarantee), Jackman-tested backrest, homemade aluminum rack for Givi soft saddlebags, Westach CHT gauge, homemade faceplate for CHT, rear-shock internal mudflap, Pyramid fender extender and a partridge in a pear tree. Considering Stebel horn and Renntec bars.

  7. #6
    Rising Star Azzip's Avatar
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    Berto,
    I'm pretty sure the clicking sound was the rotor actually hitting the sensor. The sensor is marred. I don't know what it originally looked like. The side of the sensor that connects with the rotor has a white area with a round metal sensing dot in the middle of it. That sensing dot might have been protruding as originally installed. That dot is now flattened some. I tried to take a cross-section type photo of it.

    Andre, if you take your rotor cover off and measure, could you also look at your sensing dot and attempt to describe it and compare to mine? Some silicone could keep the moisture out - or for $55, I probably ought to replace it - just hate to waste the money if don't need to.
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    ZROA # 900
    '00 ZR7

  8. #7
    Gold Member/Community Dad Berto's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Andre Lalonde
    Berto,
    I think the tapping noise you heard was the rotor hitting the sensor, and this is why the sensor is cracked. Arcing would however not be a problem since there is no high voltage on this sensor.
    Duh, true, Ignition coils are high volt items. This item, as you say, low voltage device being a senor device.
    Berto
    ZR7OA Member#: 229

  9. #8
    Supreme Being AndreL's Avatar
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    Azzip,
    I will pull the cover later today and take measurements and photos for you. Will have them posted tonight.
    André
    2004 red ZR-7S
    2002 silver ZR-7S, (destroyed by SUV)
    1981 Honda PA50
    1975 Norton Commando MkIII
    Mods: 17T front sprocket, Eastern Beaver headlamp relay, MotoSpecialties mirror extenders, GG axle nut covers (with lifetime guarantee), Jackman-tested backrest, homemade aluminum rack for Givi soft saddlebags, Westach CHT gauge, homemade faceplate for CHT, rear-shock internal mudflap, Pyramid fender extender and a partridge in a pear tree. Considering Stebel horn and Renntec bars.

  10. #9
    The Parts Guy CrimsonCloak's Avatar
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    You probably should just replace the sensor if it is cracked. I think you are talking about the pickup coil also sometimes called the pulse coil. These can fail at random even without being physically harmed and when they go, you're stuck. That little sensor sends a signal to the CDI box every time a particular spot on the rotor comes by. This tells it when to spark. The clearance is generally less than 1mm, but nowhere near touching. I think on most Kawasakis there is enough clearance to slip a few sheets of paper between the rotor and the pulse coil, but not much more. If it's too far away from the rotor, the bike just won't start.

  11. #10
    Supreme Being AndreL's Avatar
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    Azzip,
    The gap between my rotor and sensor is 0.56 mm. Attached is a photo.
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    André
    2004 red ZR-7S
    2002 silver ZR-7S, (destroyed by SUV)
    1981 Honda PA50
    1975 Norton Commando MkIII
    Mods: 17T front sprocket, Eastern Beaver headlamp relay, MotoSpecialties mirror extenders, GG axle nut covers (with lifetime guarantee), Jackman-tested backrest, homemade aluminum rack for Givi soft saddlebags, Westach CHT gauge, homemade faceplate for CHT, rear-shock internal mudflap, Pyramid fender extender and a partridge in a pear tree. Considering Stebel horn and Renntec bars.

  12. #11
    Supreme Being AndreL's Avatar
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    Please note that on my sensor there is a small brass pin that sticks out, slightly above the surface of the epoxy-plastic casing of the sensor. This small brass pin is more visible in the attached photo. I looked at your sensor and I can't see this pin. I think it was partly gouged out by the impact with the rotor. As Crimson says, you might have problems getting the right clearance because you now have a groove in the surface of your sensor.
    Please let us know how you make out.
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    André
    2004 red ZR-7S
    2002 silver ZR-7S, (destroyed by SUV)
    1981 Honda PA50
    1975 Norton Commando MkIII
    Mods: 17T front sprocket, Eastern Beaver headlamp relay, MotoSpecialties mirror extenders, GG axle nut covers (with lifetime guarantee), Jackman-tested backrest, homemade aluminum rack for Givi soft saddlebags, Westach CHT gauge, homemade faceplate for CHT, rear-shock internal mudflap, Pyramid fender extender and a partridge in a pear tree. Considering Stebel horn and Renntec bars.

  13. #12
    Rising Star Azzip's Avatar
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    Andre and Berto,
    I'm just going to replace it. Mine no longer looks anything like Andre's. My "brass pin" is flat, smashed, smeared and silver! (Sounds like hash browns at the Waffle House.) The photos are a fantastic help. Thanks so much for going to this trouble for me. I'll be happy to pay you for a new gasket.

    Anyone out there know of anyone who has an extra rotor cover? Mine was cracked and fell apart as I removed it.

    I've emailed zlaja, who is parting out an '00 ZR-7, but no resonse yet.
    LET'S ALL BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!
    ZROA # 900
    '00 ZR7

  14. #13
    Supreme Being AndreL's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Azzip
    I'll be happy to pay you for a new gasket.
    Azzip, no need. Gasket is fine. A beer on ROTRIV will however be nice>
    André
    2004 red ZR-7S
    2002 silver ZR-7S, (destroyed by SUV)
    1981 Honda PA50
    1975 Norton Commando MkIII
    Mods: 17T front sprocket, Eastern Beaver headlamp relay, MotoSpecialties mirror extenders, GG axle nut covers (with lifetime guarantee), Jackman-tested backrest, homemade aluminum rack for Givi soft saddlebags, Westach CHT gauge, homemade faceplate for CHT, rear-shock internal mudflap, Pyramid fender extender and a partridge in a pear tree. Considering Stebel horn and Renntec bars.

  15. #14
    Rising Star Azzip's Avatar
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    It will be my pleasure to provide you with the finest brew available in Mt. Airy!
    LET'S ALL BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!
    ZROA # 900
    '00 ZR7

  16. #15
    Maintenance Overlord graeme gould's Avatar
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    Hi Assip

    I checked the clearance between my ignition rotor and pickup coil it is 0.018" (say 0.45mm), I noticed some magnetic pickup on the magnetic coil end, so it looks like a new pickup coil.

    Hope your stuck under the guard rail damage is well under way by now

    gg@bb, ava good day
    Graeme Gould at Byron Bay the most Easterly part of Australia

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