Need ZX9r valve springs and retainers and seats oem is way exhorbidant $ wise

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Need ZX9r valve springs and retainers and seats oem is way exhorbidant $ wise

This is a discussion on Need ZX9r valve springs and retainers and seats oem is way exhorbidant $ wise within the Z1K/Z750 Performance Upgrades forums, part of the Kawasaki Z1000, Ninja 1000, Z800, Z750 & Z-750S category; So the title kind of explains my dilemma but not quite. I'm getting parts together to go from 750 to 953 cc. and want to ...

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  1. #1
    Up-And Comer PerryG's Avatar
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    Need ZX9r valve springs and retainers and seats oem is way exhorbidant $ wise

    So the title kind of explains my dilemma but not quite. I'm getting parts together to go from 750 to 953 cc. and want to bulletproof the valve train so to speak, as we all know my 07 750 revs higher than the 03>06 z1k and I just priced oem zx9r springs, seats, and retainers it comes to $822.72 before taxes with no keepers <-- (same part # as z1k) or seals <-- (which are reasonable on ebay). Is there anyplace out there cheaper than bike bandit? My local Kawasaki dealer seems to do the same as them price wise but that's still a lot. Seems like a complete zx9r head would be a lot less, now I know why all you guys are doing cams too, if you can find a head with the whole valve train it saves a bunch of money, not to much on ebay at the moment, a nice 01>03 20,000ish mile zx9r head happening along would sure be nice. I plan on riding this thing forever or until one of us dies so I want to put it together right to prolong the bikes life, any suggestions on cheap parts are welcomed.
    2007 Z750s, 10 zx6 rear shock/linkage, 10 zx6 forks/brakes, HEL front/rear brake lines, Dynojet pcv 17-050, 08 Z1000 clutch and cover, Parts Unlimited 16 tooth front, Supersprox stealth 46 tooth rear sprockets with 114 link RK chain, heated grips (unsure of the manufacturer), bar risers from twisted throttle, 11 ninja 1000 mirrors, Acumen gear indicator, MRA touring windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat.

  2. #2
    Up-And Comer saganb85's Avatar
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    Unless you plan to swap the cam there's no reason to upgrade the springs. It's only needed for the added lift of the 9r cam. A complete head is the cheapest route tho

  3. #3
    Site Elder motocopter's Avatar
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    2012 Concours 14 | 2017 690 Enduro R
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  5. #4
    Up-And Comer PerryG's Avatar
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    I've kind of known that I could get away with all the z1k parts but I'm going to have it apart for some port cleanup/porting, anyway and was thinking about just going all out and putting in better parts, I have a used supposed 8000 mile z1k complete head, and it looks like what it's claimed to be (hasn't even made it to the 1st adjustment and doesn't need any now, I measured clearance) so I wouldn't be shy about just bolting it on. I'm just contemplating, am I going to be done when it's 953cc.s or not, cams can be swapped later and it may save taking it off in the future kind of thing. Still thinking about it all, actually I'll be riding it as a 750 for 1 more summer so I have time to make final decisions. You never know though if I have everything ready maybe I'll do it when the next valve adjustment is due, I have about 14000 km. before then, about midsummer likely, we'll have to see how the money goes until then I'm not willing to take it off the road for more than a weekend during riding season and I can't quite afford to do it all by this spring. It's going to be real hard to look at the 750 cams in July and just adjust them without just taking more parts off though
    2007 Z750s, 10 zx6 rear shock/linkage, 10 zx6 forks/brakes, HEL front/rear brake lines, Dynojet pcv 17-050, 08 Z1000 clutch and cover, Parts Unlimited 16 tooth front, Supersprox stealth 46 tooth rear sprockets with 114 link RK chain, heated grips (unsure of the manufacturer), bar risers from twisted throttle, 11 ninja 1000 mirrors, Acumen gear indicator, MRA touring windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat.

  6. #5
    Up-And Comer saganb85's Avatar
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    I don't have experience with the zx9 cams but unless you stay in the 8-12k range the Z cams are fun. To me it was actually a much funner ride using the z750 throttle bodies with the 950cc. Power was instant from 2500 but fell on its face at 10k. Now with zx10 throttle bodies the power doesn't really come on until 4k. It's still fun but probably needs the zx9 cam. Plus the power is never going to be enough lol

  7. #6
    Up-And Comer saganb85's Avatar
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    Once you get all the parts you can get it done in a weekend it's not too bad dropping the engine on these bikes

  8. #7
    Up-And Comer PerryG's Avatar
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    Ya I don't think I'd do zx10 tbs without cams as well myself, I won't be going there though. And I know I can do it in a weekend, I've had a D7 cat completely apart and back together, it took more than a weekend about 2 weeks actually, but if I can handle that the bike should be easy. I still need the autotune module and an exhaust, I have the clutch on it already. A cylinder block, pistons, rings, and throttle bodies ready to go on when I prep the head, I need to get some fresh gaskets and block off plates too I guess, probably reuse the base gasket but I'm putting the thinner cometic head gasket on it, fresh seals, I'll be doing a basic port cleanup myself, not hogging them out or anything. My big holdup/problem is if I buy the exhaust now I'll be using up my money saved to ride next summer, I generally have some extra tires on hand (I mount my own) and I'll need a chain/sprockets this summer all of which I still need to buy. I try to have the stuff that wears out bought before summer so I can put all my money in the tank or other normal riding expenses and I really want to get a rim powder coated too this winter, still running a black zx6 up front with the silver z750 rear since I did the forks 2 years ago. I was actually supposed to do that with what I've been spending on engine parts. It sucks to be poor and have to wait to buy more stuff, you never know maybe I'll pass on the powder coating for another year and buy an exhaust, if I'm moving fast enough no one will see the 2 different coloured wheels anyway.
    2007 Z750s, 10 zx6 rear shock/linkage, 10 zx6 forks/brakes, HEL front/rear brake lines, Dynojet pcv 17-050, 08 Z1000 clutch and cover, Parts Unlimited 16 tooth front, Supersprox stealth 46 tooth rear sprockets with 114 link RK chain, heated grips (unsure of the manufacturer), bar risers from twisted throttle, 11 ninja 1000 mirrors, Acumen gear indicator, MRA touring windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat.

  9. #8
    Up-And Comer saganb85's Avatar
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    What's the reason for the exhaust? It's already a 4 into 1 the bike will perform fine with the 750 one just put a bung in it for the O2 sensor and go the auto tune will get your power for the system on the bike. Think all the auto tune modules are the same I'm not sure I'm running a used zx6 one with the zx6 pcv. The 02 sensors are relatively cheap on ebay if they go bad

  10. #9
    Up-And Comer PerryG's Avatar
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    Z1k exhaust has bigger a collector outlet the down tubes, mid pipe and muffler are all larger diameter as well, they should flow more and weigh less than the stock 750 pipes, most of the weight difference is likely from the collector back thanks to the doubled mid pipe and cat but some from the front too I would think. I lost weight from the front of it when I did the forks now if I lose some more mostly from the back, I'll be getting closer to the new z900 power to weight ratio <-- (totally unnecessary bragging rights) My goal is 470 lbs. wet and 130ish rear wheel hp. I don't really need it, I've managed a couple tickets with 100ish hp. but I want it, you know how that goes I'm sure. I just want to get it done and not have to keep doing more, a whole project at once kind of thing, and not move on to the next one like I did with the rim powder coating. I need to stop procrastinating with my ride.
    2007 Z750s, 10 zx6 rear shock/linkage, 10 zx6 forks/brakes, HEL front/rear brake lines, Dynojet pcv 17-050, 08 Z1000 clutch and cover, Parts Unlimited 16 tooth front, Supersprox stealth 46 tooth rear sprockets with 114 link RK chain, heated grips (unsure of the manufacturer), bar risers from twisted throttle, 11 ninja 1000 mirrors, Acumen gear indicator, MRA touring windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat.

  11. #10
    Up-And Comer saganb85's Avatar
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    Pretty sure the 750 header is a lot lighter since it's less tubing and only 1 muffler not sure if the tubing diameter is any different. I don't think the flow would be any better unless you do a zx9 header that you'd have to modify and would really perform its best with the zx10 throttle bodies and zx9 cams. I just wish I could have rode a z1000 before I changed out the z750 throttle bodies it was a blast to ride around town was actually a torqueier bike than my dad's Tl1000r. I planned on stopping at the cylinder upgrade but it's hard to stop when you know there's still a lot more that can be done.

  12. #11
    Up-And Comer PerryG's Avatar
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    I'm putting the 03>06 Arrow 4>2>1 with race tech can so no crossover tubes that may offset the bigger tube = heavier some, there's not going to be a big difference in weight head to collector on any of them and if you look at the Arrow system they get bigger just after leaving the head as they bend down, you may be right about a zx9 header being a decent setup but I think I'll be better off with this over the 750 header. I am using 38 mm. throttle bodies not the 34s so I'm good with my plan so far. If I put it together as I'm planning all of the other stuff is still a possibility and the biggest possible header would give the most benefits with cams and zx10 tbs if I ever did go that far, I just don't think I will, I'd get a used 3rd gen N1K with no abs and put my forks on it, if I was going farther than my plan, they're heavier but stiffer frame/swinger makes a big difference. I've ridden both a 2010 Z1K <-- (lighter and feels like it, the weight that is there seems lower) and a 2011 N1K and a 1st gen would have to go some to pull like they do and they do turn pretty well too especially the Z1K, N1K the extra weight is all up top so you notice it but it's not much different feeling as to where it carries it's weight than ours the stiffness makes a big difference though. Mine doesn't handle much like a stock Z750s anymore either so I've lost some perspective actually.
    2007 Z750s, 10 zx6 rear shock/linkage, 10 zx6 forks/brakes, HEL front/rear brake lines, Dynojet pcv 17-050, 08 Z1000 clutch and cover, Parts Unlimited 16 tooth front, Supersprox stealth 46 tooth rear sprockets with 114 link RK chain, heated grips (unsure of the manufacturer), bar risers from twisted throttle, 11 ninja 1000 mirrors, Acumen gear indicator, MRA touring windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat.

  13. #12
    Up-And Comer saganb85's Avatar
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    I don't see the header being worth the extra money. Performance wise the crossover pipe gives you better power it's like an X pipe on a car. The zx9 header out performed pretty much all the aftermarket headers out there. You'd be surprised fast the torque came on with the 750 header and throttle bodies it would stand up off idle pretty much just couldn't breath past 10 grand. Now with 43mm throttle bodies it wants to rev forever but doesn't come alive until around 5k I wish I knew someone with a stock Z to compare with. I miss the torque around town kinda why I'm wanting to supercharge now will get the best of both worlds

  14. #13
    Up-And Comer PerryG's Avatar
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    A properly designed 4>2>1 works the same way as your X pipe/cross over inclusive setup, the cylinders that are joined 1st help with scavenging just like crossovers 4>2>1 are built for better low end/mid range torque, stock 4>1 systems use crossover pipes to accomplish this (apples/oranges) lose the crossovers and increase pipe diameter slightly you get more increase closer to top end <-- (Arrow is doing both here, expanding pipe size and keeping the scavenging benefits). A full race system in the old days would be 4>1 with no crossovers and the biggest pipes possible and only run decently wide open, most aftermarket street headers are 4>2>1. It'd be nice to see a dyno comparison on a gen 1 Z1K test bike with zx9, z750, and the few aftermarket systems still being made for it but that'll never happen. Anyway we're a bit off topic here I still haven't decided on the springs 1 way or the other, I'd hate to have to pull the head again if I did decide to do cams later. I will be doing the exhaust at the same time as the cc. bump though just have to wait and see how it all works out I guess. I'm already into this for about $700 the exhaust will cost me another $1200ish auto tune module a couple hundred, gaskets, seals, oil etc. a couple hundred more, I just don't like adding another $800+ to the bill for springs, seats, and retainers if I never need them. My bike was basically free (I did some work on some apartments my brother in law owns, for it) so putting $3000>4000 into doesn't seem to bad but I'm not rich so that's about it for me any more and you're getting into the maybe I should buy something else scenario.
    2007 Z750s, 10 zx6 rear shock/linkage, 10 zx6 forks/brakes, HEL front/rear brake lines, Dynojet pcv 17-050, 08 Z1000 clutch and cover, Parts Unlimited 16 tooth front, Supersprox stealth 46 tooth rear sprockets with 114 link RK chain, heated grips (unsure of the manufacturer), bar risers from twisted throttle, 11 ninja 1000 mirrors, Acumen gear indicator, MRA touring windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat.

  15. #14
    Up-And Comer saganb85's Avatar
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    How often do you see yourself riding in the 9 to 12k range where the zx9 cams start to perform. On the street I'm rarely above 7 grand. To me 2 to 3 potential hp isn't worth the 1200 dollars. Since you have both sizes of throttle bodies I'd run them both and see what you like better it's just a little time involved. Around town you'll feel a huge difference

  16. #15
    Up-And Comer PerryG's Avatar
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    Ya I know what you're saying I'm usually under 6000 rpm but the 6>10,000 still gets some use after 10,000 I'm generally riding not gauge watching, never hit the limiter yet though so I guess I've never done 12,000 or whatever our limiter comes in at before shifting up, I've heard 12,200 for the limiter not sure about that though. But I'll still have more around town torque a gen 1 Z1K has my 750s peak way lower than now I think it's supposed to be 54ish at 8200 now, it'll probably do that with 38 mm. tbs at 4000 with a proper tune in it and still be 70ish ft./lbs. at 8000, shouldn't lose any bottom end like your 43s seem to have done to yours with 38s I likely don't need cams anyway the 1st gen and our 750s had pretty good duration numbers, 2nd gen had less duration to increase air velocity smaller 36 mm. tbs too and supposedly made its torque sooner, not really sure what the lift is on either, but bigger tbs do need other things sometimes to work well and if cams and porting can't get you there then you come to your supercharger project I wish I had money to burn I'd so like to try something like that just can't see it getting by as my only bike and I can't afford 2.
    2007 Z750s, 10 zx6 rear shock/linkage, 10 zx6 forks/brakes, HEL front/rear brake lines, Dynojet pcv 17-050, 08 Z1000 clutch and cover, Parts Unlimited 16 tooth front, Supersprox stealth 46 tooth rear sprockets with 114 link RK chain, heated grips (unsure of the manufacturer), bar risers from twisted throttle, 11 ninja 1000 mirrors, Acumen gear indicator, MRA touring windscreen, Corbin gunfighter seat.

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