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Winter Project & How TO 2012 Ninja 650 (ER-6N) 636 Front End swap.

43K views 67 replies 15 participants last post by  Bradmeister  
#1 ·
Started life as a wrecked 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 650 with 457 miles on it. Once the plastic was stripped off and a replacement headlight sourced from one of my other bikes, it was rideable, that is, with a pair of vicegrips in place of the missing right side footpeg.

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I should make note here that this is my 3rd of the Kawasaki 650 parallel twins. I love these little engines (bikes). First was a 2007 Versys, one of the first in the state, then a 2009 ER-6N, and now a 2012 Ninja. I ride Naked's and Supermoto's for the most part, and prefer the look of that type of bike. Then when I found a 2012 with the new double tube frame and swingarn that I really love the look of, I jumped on it. A nice bonus was the super low miles and the Kawi candy green paint, my new favorite color.
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I also knew that even though The forks, triple clamps, and even the handlebars were fine, I wanted to upgrade the forks and brakes, as my current Naked is a Triumph Street Triple R, which has very good suspension, and the best front brakes of any bike I've ever ridden, with very strong initial bite, and great feel. After riding the Ninja turned ER-6 for a couple hundred miles after my mods, I've decided the Street Trip is no longer needed and will go up for sale in a few months, as the ER-6 turned out so well.

I still have some cosmetic work to do, and possibly next year some engine work. Possibly cams and head work, bored throttle bodies, pistons and such. I'd like to get 80 plus hp at the wheel with corresponding gains of torque everywhere in the rev range, keeping the reliability.

I've been asked why would you want to put all that time, effort, and money into a bike that doesn't have the performance of your Street Triple. Well, I love the street trip R, this is my second one. But for the past 12-15 years I've had nothing but singles and twins in the garage (aside from the street trip's) , and I guess they just really do it for me, although the street trip, has one of the best engines in all of motorcycling, sounds great too. These little parallel twins are great as well, albeit down on hp, but not torque, to the street trip. They are quick, love to rev, and torquey, and you can ride the **** out of them, if the ER-6 can't keep up in the twisties, it's the rider, not the bike. and how much power can you actually use on the street, I have much more fun wringing a bike out. I would say the front end is now comparable to the Street Trip, as are the brakes. There is also the satisfaction of building something that is unique, and almost every time I get fuel, someone wants to know... what is that bike?

So, here is what was done to the bike. Removed the fairings, headlights, forks, triple clamps, front wheel, front fender, brakes, brake lines, bars, levers, perches, coolant reservoir, misc. brackets. With the rear of the bike on a swingarm stand, the front was hung from the garage rafters with winch cable looped around the steering head, so the entire front end could be stripped off, and it could hang for months, without worrying it would fall. It took around 3 months for me to source all the parts and get it back together. First came forks and triple clamps form a 2004 ZX6R, and if I had wanted to use clip ons, that part would have been done. I like superbike style bars, and riding position, so I needed a Z1000 top triple. First I tried a used (ebay) 2003-2004 Z1 top triple (2 pinch bolts per side). That would have worked, from what I could tell, but it was tweaked. I could get one side in, but the other side was at least a quarter inch off from being able to slide over the fork ( I knew the forks and ZX6 triples were straight as they slid right on with no binding as the forks were rotated in them). So I sent that back and got a brand new triple from my local dealer. First ordering an '04 Z1 triple, then hearing that would take much longer to get, ordered an '07-'08 Z1 (1 pinch bolt per side) top triple. Both Z1 top triples also required me to make a 5mm or so, collar to fit over the steering stem and fill the gap between the O.D. of the stem and the I.D. of the top triple, where they meet under the steering stem nut. With that sorted, and the triples and forks bolted to the front end, I sourced a 2005 ZX6R front wheel. The stock wheel could have been used, but the hub would have needed to been machined out from, if I remember correctly, 42mm to 47mm to accept the larger bearings needed for the ZX6R's front axle. And the machine work would have cost at least as much as it did for me to buy a used "straight" wheel, online. Then the stock Ninja 650 300mm rotors were put on the ZX6R wheel.
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With the bike now on the ground, I got an '04 ZX6R front fender and wrapped it with 3M DiNoc carbon fiber vinyl film, as well as the headlight shrouds, and the trim piece above the taillight (none of them matched the Kawi candy green). The calipers were spaced out to accommodate the 20mm larger rotors, and custom Galfer stainless brake line were added.

On to the controls. A Renthal aluminum 7/8 bar was installed (I would have put on a fatbar, but I knew the instrument cluster would sit on top, covering it), with the bars installed, I had very little steering lock. To resolve this I cut down the vibration isolators in the top triple clamp to move the nut up higher that attaches the bars to the triple clamp, and also ground the top frame tube down a few mm to give me adequate steering lock, not as much as stock, but more than my Street Trip. So now the stud and nut that attach the bars to the triple clamp act as my steering stop, odd, but it works. Pazzo shorty levers for the ZX6R perches were next, so I could use the radial master cylinder (instead of the stock Ninja 650 unit, which I have heard will work), with a universal reservoir mounted to the brake lever perch. Then aluminum bar end mirrors. Also the coolant reservoir was relocated under the seat in a 10oz. liquor flask, for a clean right side view.

What to do for a headlight? I had been using the stock headlight from my '07 BMW G650XMOTO (Supermoto) zip-tied on, so I could ride it around before the teardown. I thought it matched the look of the bike pretty well, so I fabbed up some mounts and on it went. The stock instrument cluster was attached to the headlight bracket, angled toward the rider and set on top of the bar mount, for a functional and clean look. A pair of BMW turn signals were bolted to the triple clamp via a Suzuki DR-650 front turn signal bracket that I had laying around. Also the horn was relocated to the lower triple clamp.To go with the greatly improved front end, a Penske 8900E shock is being built for me as I write this, and should be a huge improvement over stock.

On the engine side of things, a Leo Vince full system, with a Power Commander V. While the tank was off I removed the secondary throttle butterflies, de-snorkeled the air-box and capped the P A I R valve. No tuning as yet, because it runs well, and is stronger than stock, and in the winter I might decide to do some engine work.

Was it worth all the time and money (my running total is still much less than a new Ninja 650)? I think so, it's a fun little ripper, and after riding it back to back with the Street Trip, I'm confident I wont miss it (though my son thinks I'm crazy). I'm more of a twins and singles lover.

I hope this helps someone do the same front end mod on the new Ninja or ER-6N, or inspires someone to transform a bike they already have into something different, or a wreck into something new.
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#10 · (Edited)
I thought the Galfer lines piggy-backed directly from the master cylinder and to each caliper, not in series from one caliper to the next... was that a personal choice?

"Features:

All Galfer lines are coated with a clear or colored protective coat, protecting the line from the weather and the bike from scratches.
All Galfer kits come complete with banjo bolts and washers for easy installation. Banjo bolts should never be torqued over 12 to 15 ftlbs.
All Sport Bike kits are 2 line kits; with the lines traveling from the master cylinder to the caliper directly.
All kits are made bike specific. "

Oh, and it looks GREAT! Excellent job.
 
#11 ·
Good eye, yes I prefer the look of the stock routing. Since I had to have a custom length, I went with stock routing as well. Galfer does the dual line to the caliper because " you may have uneven pad wear from one caliper to the other with the crossover". To that I say.... well my Street Triple R has the lines routed the same way as the Kawi, and the Triumph has the best brakes of any bike I've ever ridden, with no uneven wear. I am perfectly happy with the brakes on the Kawi, a huge improvement over stock, and I believe it was only $30 more to have custom length, and routing.

Thanks.
 
#12 ·
Updated pic with the new Penske shock, added 2 inches of ride height over stock, compliments the ZX6R front end very well. Much more compliant, no more getting bounced out of the seat.
 

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#51 ·
VERSYS RIDER,

I just finished reading this post from you..........

Overall, she looks wicked....... Congrats!

Tell me please, Why do I see the Pre-load on your new Penske Cranked up so much? It looks like in the picture, your up to half the threads or about 40mm or so? I see you decided to raise the rear 2" to accommodate the front, Do you know where your new CG or Center of Gravity is now established?

Can you tell us why this is? Can't you just raise the forks to copy original rake and wheelbase? If you're a heavy dude, I can respect you're privacy.

Were you able to achieve your front and rear sag? Your Static and rider Sag?

At two inches higher, I would have to believe the geometry changed, did you compensate with more static sag and what about your "Squat" at the rear wheel?

Any gearing calculations to see about squatting and kick-up now that you have changed asymmetry of the powertrain from factory? The factory delivered the Bike in a nose up position when we purchased......... based on front and rear factory spring rates. Looking at the Rear Pre=load on that shock, you have the Tail up full and much much more than 4-9mm's of Pre-load on that spring.

Lastly, Some of the torque we produce (When we twist the Throttle, especially out of a turn) goes into wanting to "Flip" our motorcycles over!

This shifts more weight (or force) to the rear of the vehicle. On our motorcycles, this compresses the rear springs and extends the front springs as they each seek a new equilibrium position for the new loads. This is called Squat.

When were underpowered, the Drivetrain configuration, wheel and suspension components as the rear spring expands or extends is called Anti-Squat.

It looks as though you are in a full "Anti-Squat" mode to me my friend. Be safe. Be careful. and exercise caution.


Very Curiously interested,

Cheers
 
#13 ·
I hate the rear end of those bikes. They almost beg to be chopped. Nice work
 
#16 ·
I'm just sorry I didn't beat you to it!

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#24 ·
I don't really have a budget for the bike. I kinda just find the next part wanted and save for the most expensive one I've seen and buy the cheapest one I find. I'm looking into the Versys shock to get me by for now. I want something taller than stock anyways with a bit more adjustability than what I have. I live in a small town with a lot of bad roads so rear suspension is coming up on my list. I found a wheel for $150, but I'm waiting for the guy to get back at me. I've already ordered my 180 wheel kit from Blue ridge performance and already have a zx6r rear wheel waiting for that kit. I'll then powder coat both the front and rear ZX6r wheels close the Pearl Stardust White on the bike, add some red tape and look sexy!

Do you have a link for the Penske? Do you know if it's taller than our stock setup?
 
#25 ·
Ya, I don't budget either, just try to shop for a deal.
No doubt the 180 kit looks great, but I bet you'll lose 3-4 or more hp at the wheel due to the extra weight of the heavier wheel and rim, also slower acceleration and braking due to the rotational forces, otherwise I'd be all over that mod too. White wheels look hot, sounds great.
I bought my Penske from BRP (Blue Ridge Performance), Gary was great to work with. I wanted the Penske because it has adjustable ride height, all of the other lower priced shocks I saw did not. I knew before I started looking at shocks that I wanted to increase the rear ride height for more weight on the front tire. I increased my rear ride height by 2 inches (after setting the sag), and am very happy with that so far after a couple hard rides. I also wanted to increase the seat height as well, so double win. The only downside I've found so far, the kick-stand is too short now. To answer your question about is it taller than stock, I know I saw that with some shocks you can specify length, don't remember if the Penske can be built that way, but I would say probably, and with the extra adjustability you could always go up in small increments to your liking.
 
#26 ·
I'm one step ahead of the decreased braking effects on the rear wheel. I already purchased an aluminum 46t rear sprocket, stainless lines, and a wave rotor. The kick stand issue sounds interesting to tackle.

I'm sure I'll have more questions for you, but thanks for taking the time to answer the ones I've had for you and just sharing a general conversation over the 3rd gen 650. There's not a lot of guys out there trying to make the 3rd gen 650 perform better.
 
#28 ·
I found the first one(03-04) on craigslist. I actually knew the guy who had it already. It was Tommy from Nasty Lot Bumz(stunt crew in Dallas Fort Worth). He hooked me up with a complete front end minus grips, brake lines, and perches for $225. Then I was on eBay because I wanted a different top triple and stumbled across the 05-06 front end for $180 after shipping. The guy said it had a seal leak but it turned out he just bottomed the fork out and lost a little oil. I took them apart and refilled them and was good to go.
 
#32 ·
Winner, winner, chicken dinner. That's where I found my front end, I live in Washington. Surely there must be some forum there with Roebling Road, lots of racers I'm sure. I believe one of the best American racers comes from Georgia, a certain Mr. Scott Russell..... I believe he rode a Kawi once or twice.
 
#34 ·
Well everyone has a different taste. What do you mean by the "front end doesn't look right either."

I much prefer naked bikes, that's mostly all I've ridden for years, and as a side bonus, removing the rashed plastics shaved 20lbs. of weight off the bike. Lighter is always righter.
 
#37 ·
with the bars installed, I had very little steering lock. To resolve this I cut down the vibration isolators in the top triple clamp to move the nut up higher that attaches the bars to the triple clamp, and also ground the top frame tube down a few mm to give me adequate steering lock, not as much as stock, but more than my Street Trip. So now the stud and nut that attach the bars to the triple clamp act as my steering stop, odd, but it works.
Could you take an up close pic or two of this setup? I understand that a versys lower triple will work well for steering lock. They're rare though so it'd be nice not to have to source one. Does your fork lock still work?
 
#38 ·
If you run clip ons, instead of superbike bars (like my bike), the front end swap is far easier and cheaper, and you may not have the steering lock problems I had.
I'll see what I can do without having to remove my headlight assembly. Fork lock does not currently work, but could made too, if I really wanted it too.
 
#39 ·
When you guys talk about steering lock, are you talking about the steering stops? I know my turn radius isn't what it used to be.
 
#42 ·
Fork lock is what I was referring to then. I like being able to use it.

I'm not really a clip-ons kind of guy. If I ended up with a 636 upper triple or similar, I'd probably use adjustable clip-on risers. I read somewhere else that using the versys lower maintains steering lock. Using the z1k upper maintains fork lock as well as lets you use standard bars.
 
#46 ·
Yes I have a complete front end with wheel, tire, fender, just minus the rotors. All in very good to excellent shape with 457 miles on them, not entirely sure I want to sell them, but if the price was right. Better yet buy my whole bike, already done. I'm first on the list for the new 3 cylinder FZ-09 at the same dealer that I bought my 2 new quads from last year, dealers should have them in October. The ER-6N (Ninja) will go up for sale next spring.
 
#49 ·
#52 ·
I'm starting to collect parts! I got a upper/lower triple from a z1000, a 636 wheel, and 06 636 forks. I just need brakes, a fender and some free time now. After selling my stock parts, out of pocket expense will be very manageable. The springs will be much more appropriate also (BRAD! :D). .90kg/mm vs 1.2 kg/mm. Calculators tell me I need between a .90 and .95.
 
#53 ·
Go DJ, GO!!!!!

Sounds about right.....ummm 6-4 and 200lbs? Regardless..........your going strait to Start, collect 200 dollars and advance to one of 4 places.......

1. Race Tech at $114 or
2. Traxxon at $120 and they have them for our tubes in .05 kg/mm increments
3. Promoto dual rate if your want plush and no track at $120
4. EPM single with oil at $135

(not sure about the 636 tubes for any of these offerings.......... still 41mm's?

I cant wait to see it! Keep the CG, squat, and Sag in mind! Let the Suspension Design Begin DJrussell!!!! Woot Woot!

Cheers