What are the cartridges that you put into the forks? Im new to motorbikes so im still learning. I dont want to have to replace the entire front end.

Originally Posted by Dan21

What are the cartridges that you put into the forks? Im new to motorbikes so im still learning. I dont want to have to replace the entire front end.

I use GSXR 600 K1-3 or ZX6F. Basically you're tossing the useless guts of your stock forks and putting cartridges in. The even more painless upgrade is to simply install compatible 41mm cartridge fork uppers with their native guts into 650R lowers. Possibilities there are ZX6F, cbr F2 and possibly early F3. I just did a F2 upgrade for an SV rider last weekend.

Any idea if and how much longer other uppers are? I remember someone saying the ZX6E was a good 1-2" longer than the 650R upper. Important to me cause I'd love to rock clipons above the triple.

I think 25-30mm. 6f are probably 20mm. Either one will work. Like the SV, dropping the front isn't a problem.

Will uppers from a 2000 zx6 work?

No, those ZX6s have 46mm fork tubes. It has to be a 41mm fork tube. I think any ZX6 from before 1998 or any ZZR from before 2005 will work. You basically want the legs from any ZX600E.

Originally Posted by pattonme

yes, just as long as you replace the entire front end (triples, wheel, fender, rotors etc). Just put cartridges inside the stock forks. You get 95% of the improvement with almost zero hassle.

How difficult would it be to swap the cartridge versus getting new spring and racetech gold valve emulators? Which is the better route?

Originally Posted by bankmaggot

How difficult would it be to swap the cartridge versus getting new spring and racetech gold valve emulators? Which is the better route?

Emulators are a total waste of money. The correct (or close) springs are a necessary prerequisite no matter which way you go. I did 3 bikes with emulators before I got smart and used cartridges. The difference is night vs day. In particular the Emulators can not address rebound. Oh sure, some people run heavy oil or weld-up the rebound holes and make the orifices tiny, or run an emulator in one fork and a rebound circuit in the other, in a desperate attempt to justify their investment in GVE, but it's a pointless exercise.

The only major caveat with cartridges is that it is non-reversible. There is a silly "damper rod oil bushing" in the bottom of the fork that has to be removed (destructively) so that the cartridge tube can pass through.

I can take "short" or normal length fork tubes and effectively lengthen them at least an inch, possibly more, since I can control how much stroke to use in the cartridge. I normally design for 120mm of travel but even maintaining that length I can 'move' the upper tube so that it's sticking out more than stock so you can mount clipons above the triples. But in general it's best to start with a longer upper tube.