what cause the smoke after oil change? ~~~help

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what cause the smoke after oil change? ~~~help

This is a discussion on what cause the smoke after oil change? ~~~help within the Ninja 650R Maintenance forums, part of the Kawasaki Ninja 650R category; I just did my first 600 miles oil change, I used 10w-40 and this filter. are they bad choices? IMG_20170402_011519.jpg IMG_20170402_011500.jpg after it was done, ...

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Thread: what cause the smoke after oil change? ~~~help

  1. #1
    Newbie sunwave's Avatar
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    what cause the smoke after oil change? ~~~help

    I just did my first 600 miles oil change, I used 10w-40 and this filter.
    are they bad choices?
    IMG_20170402_011519.jpg

    IMG_20170402_011500.jpg

    after it was done, i took the bike out for a spin, rode few blocks around my house, i did let the engine idle for few mins before ridding.
    after i came back, i saw a bunch smoke coming out the exhaust and kept going for a long time.
    is this normal? or because of the oil?
    I did notice the engine wasn't running smooth either. kinda noisy.
    how long does it usually take to warm up the engine? is it necessary?

    IMG_20170402_011050.jpg

  2. #2
    Supreme Being Vic.Thing's Avatar
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    The oil you used is for autos/trucks. You need to use motorcycle specific oil as the manual states. It's difficult to say why you have smoke, but it might be from clutch slipping and building up heat from the incorrect oil. Someimtes spilled oil on the exhaust can smoke a little, but unless you spilled a qt all over the exhaust it's not going to smoke like that. If it's from the clutch heat, you may have significantly wore/damaged that clutch at this point. Another possibility is you overfilled the level (or hopefully not underfilled it) and this caused problems maybe making the engine burp up some oil.

    Valvoline makes fine oil for motorcycles, you can usually find conventional Valvoline 10w-40 for motorcycles at Walmart or other local reltailers (Advanced Auto is good for a little motorcycle stuff). It's sold by the quart and the bottle is black.

    I would also recommend using a motorcycle designed for your bike. Fram's aren't bad filters (IMO) but make sure it's a cross-compatible filter not just one that can screw on and is roughly the same size. If the Fram you have is for a Ninja 650 (specifically listed), cool, if not, buy an actual filter specific for your motorcycle.

    Read the manual, read the service manual. Follow the instructions provided.
    The other thing to understand is the 600 mile service is more than oil change.
    Last edited by Vic.Thing; 04-02-17 at 06:54 AM.

  3. #3
    Supreme Being twowheeladdict's Avatar
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    You should always put motorcycle specific engine oil in bikes with a wet clutch.

    Did you follow the manual exactly?

    Did you check the oil level with the bike upright on a level surface?

    Did you use a funnel when pouring in the oil?

    Is the smoke definitely coming out of the exhaust?

    How much oil did you put in the engine?

    Did you drain the old oil with the engine hot?

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  5. #4
    Supreme Being rcannon409's Avatar
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    This is the problem with substituting. Your new oil and filter might be just fine, and very well might be as good as what you removed....but, its going to be the first thing you focus on when things go wrong.
    2012 Ninja 1000 all green - Brembo 330mm rotors - AK20 fork cartridges -Penske shock-slipper -Ivans reflash...Leo Vince slip on and Arrow header

  6. #5
    Newbie kalifornia's Avatar
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    if it smoked after you turned off the engine, you simply spilled oil during the change. learn not to do that.

  7. #6
    Supreme Being McRider's Avatar
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    I think it might be a problem of overfilling. If, for example, the bike was on its sidestand when checking the oil level, that would do it.

    I disagree about only using motorcycle specific oil. What you need is oil without the friction modifiers that are in energy conserving oil, and Chevron Delo 400 LE is that kind of oil. The energy conserving oil (there is a symbol on the container, but I forgot what it looks like) can cause the clutch to slip.

    I put 115,000 miles on my Ninja 650 using mostly Delo 400 LE, and the bike still did not need to have oil added between 5,000 mile changes.

    Most people crash or sell their bikes long before they wear out.
    XxGRYMMxX likes this.

  8. #7
    Supreme Being Vic.Thing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McRider View Post
    I think it might be a problem of overfilling. If, for example, the bike was on its sidestand when checking the oil level, that would do it.

    I disagree about only using motorcycle specific oil. What you need is oil without the friction modifiers that are in energy conserving oil, and Chevron Delo 400 LE is that kind of oil. The energy conserving oil (there is a symbol on the container, but I forgot what it looks like) can cause the clutch to slip.

    I put 115,000 miles on my Ninja 650 using mostly Delo 400 LE, and the bike still did not need to have oil added between 5,000 mile changes.

    Most people crash or sell their bikes long before they wear out.
    For the sake of avoiding confusion at this point please just go with motorcycle oil. The thing takes like 2 qts. Not going to break the bank with 2 $4 quarts of Valvoline.

  9. #8
    Newbie sunwave's Avatar
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    Thank you all for the info. This is my first bike and I just researched 570 miles, I don't even know there is a difference between car and motorcycle oil. I did it on the stand, so the amount of oil is fine, slightly below the indicated line. I did spill a little oil, but the smoke was coming from the exhaust. I guess I need to change the oil right away.
    And I did a clutch lever cable adjustment, does it has anything to do with the smoothness of the running engine?

  10. #9
    Supreme Being Vic.Thing's Avatar
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    THe first thing you need to do is read the instructions for changing the oil. Then, you need to ask questions HERE about questions you have about the directions. Considering you bought auto oil you either didn't read the directions (most likely) or didn't understand what any of that stuff meant.

    That's where you're at, that's what you need help with right now.

  11. #10
    Supreme Being twowheeladdict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sunwave View Post
    Thank you all for the info. This is my first bike and I just researched 570 miles, I don't even know there is a difference between car and motorcycle oil. I did it on the stand, so the amount of oil is fine, slightly below the indicated line. I did spill a little oil, but the smoke was coming from the exhaust. I guess I need to change the oil right away.
    And I did a clutch lever cable adjustment, does it has anything to do with the smoothness of the running engine?
    You have to check the oil with the bike vertical, not on the stand.

    Also, there is more to do during the 600 mile service than just changing the oil.

    I agree that it doesn't have to be motorcycle specific if it meets the right criteria, but it is easier for the novice to just by motorcycle specific which is available most places.

  12. #11
    Supreme Being McRider's Avatar
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    You're right. I got sucked into an oil thread. My bad.

  13. #12
    Newbie sunwave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twowheeladdict View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by sunwave View Post
    Thank you all for the info. This is my first bike and I just researched 570 miles, I don't even know there is a difference between car and motorcycle oil. I did it on the stand, so the amount of oil is fine, slightly below the indicated line. I did spill a little oil, but the smoke was coming from the exhaust. I guess I need to change the oil right away.
    And I did a clutch lever cable adjustment, does it has anything to do with the smoothness of the running engine?
    You have to check the oil with the bike vertical, not on the stand.

    Also, there is more to do during the 600 mile service than just changing the oil.

    I agree that it doesn't have to be motorcycle specific if it meets the right criteria, but it is easier for the novice to just by motorcycle specific which is available most places.

    Sorry, I did use spool stand and front folk stand while doing the oil change. And I totally need to get the motorcycle engine oil to give myself a peace of mind.

  14. #13
    Newbie sunwave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vic.Thing View Post
    THe first thing you need to do is read the instructions for changing the oil. Then, you need to ask questions HERE about questions you have about the directions. Considering you bought auto oil you either didn't read the directions (most likely) or didn't understand what any of that stuff meant.

    That's where you're at, that's what you need help with right now.
    U r Right! Now I learne the lesson in a hard way, it is pain in the *** to take off the fairing again T__T

  15. #14
    Newbie kalifornia's Avatar
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    on my bike you just need to remove the belly pans at most

  16. #15
    Rising Star chdrummerdude's Avatar
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    I use rotella T6 on all my bikes and never had an issue. It also carries the correct specification called out for our bikes. Just be sure it's T6 as the other versions of rotella have friction modifiers that will cause the clutches to slip.
    XxGRYMMxX likes this.

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